How to Potty Train a Labrador Retriever Puppy

Medium
3-8 Weeks
General

Introduction

Your Labrador Retriever puppy is going to be a great companion. He will want to work hard around the house, play a lot, and work to please you. When it’s time to start training, trust your Lab puppy is going to do his best to learn everything he can during every training session. 

Potty training your puppy will be easy as long as you are dedicated to setting him up to succeed. He is intelligent and easy to train. You can begin training your Labrador Retriever puppy where to go potty and how to communicate his needs to you as soon as you bring him home. It will take some time and repetitive training for him to connect all the dots, but he will pick it all up quickly as long as you are getting him to his potty places as soon as you can. 

Defining Tasks

Potty training a Labrador Retriever puppy will require you to have a potty spot set in place before training begins. You should know where you want your little Lab to go potty and avoid making changes to that spot during training. Taking him to his potty spot consistently and on time throughout the day and night will be key to successful potty training your pup. You will need to watch the signs and signals he will give to let you know he needs go. Getting your Lab outside as soon as you see these signals and not letting him have an accident is crucial for conditioning your puppy to let you know he needs to go potty. There will be other times you should be taking your Labrador Retriever puppy outside immediately without waiting for him to give you the signal that he needs to go. These times will include after meals and after waking from any sleep.

Getting Started

You will need to pay attention to your Labrador Retriever puppy for signs he needs to go potty. Also, try to be around to get him outside every few hours before accidents can occur. You’ll need lots of treats for rewarding positive behaviors and patience, as this will take some practice and time. If you find yourself frustrated, try to catch your puppy earlier and get him outside. 

The Open Door Method

Most Recommended
4 Votes
Step
1
Go to the door
Train your Labrador Retriever puppy to go to the door he’ll use each time he needs to go outside to go potty. He can knock on this door, bark at this door, or stand at the door and wait for you to open it. Before you take your pup outside to go potty, take him to this door each time. Avoid carrying your pup outside. Set him down at the door and wait a moment before opening it to let him out.
Step
2
Time to go
When it is time to let your Lab out, take him to the door and have him walk outside on his own after you open the door. Do this when he wakes from a nap or first thing in the morning as well as overnight waking to go potty.
Step
3
After eating
After your Lab puppy has finished eating, take him to the door and have him wait for you to open it. You can knock on the door at his level each time and show him how to knock on it himself. Be sure to take him out to go potty after each meal.
Step
4
On the hour
Depending on your Labrador Retriever puppy’s age, he should be able to hold it for an hour per month of age. Before that time is up, be sure to take him to the door to go outside. Once you are at the door together, wait a moment and then open the door to let him outside.
Step
5
Practice
Be sure you are taking your Labrador Retriever puppy to the door and placing him at the door each time you need to get him outside to go potty.
Step
6
Treats
Give your puppy a treat each time he makes it outside to go potty.
Step
7
Command
As your Labrador Retriever is getting used to going to that door, start using a command such as "go potty" to ask him if that is what he needs. He should be able to go to the door to tell you he needs to go or if you ask using the command, he should start heading to the door on his own.
Recommend training method?

The Know Your Puppy Method

Effective
2 Votes
Step
1
Sleep and potty
Know your Labrador Retriever puppy will need to go potty as soon as he wakes up in the morning. It is also likely he will need to go potty upon waking from naps. If your Labrador Retriever puppy is awakened and is whining, the urge to go might be what woke him.
Step
2
Meals and potty
You should know your Labrador Retriever puppy will need to go potty about ten minutes after eating each of his meals. Taking him outside about five to ten minutes after his meals will set him up to going potty outside and not inside.
Step
3
Potty hours
Your puppy can usually wait for one hour before going potty for every month of his age. This means if your Lab is four months old, he should be able to wait about four hours before needing to go potty.
Step
4
Overnight
If you are crate training your Labrador Retriever puppy, he will whine in the middle of the night when he needs to go potty. If you are not crate training, you might want to consider keeping your puppy in a place blocked off from the rest of the house so he does not pee in the house. He should require at least one trip outside overnight for the first few months.
Step
5
Rewards
Be sure to give your puppy a treat each time he goes potty outside. This positive behavior based training will condition him to head out when he needs to go and not have an accident inside.
Step
6
Practice
The moment you let your guard down and aren’t watching or paying attention to your Lab puppy or if you are not letting him out after meals and upon waking or every few hours, he is likely to have more accidents. Keep on top of potty training, as exhausting as it is, and your Labrador Retriever puppy will succeed sooner.
Recommend training method?

The Potty Place Method

Least Recommended
1 Vote
Step
1
Choose a place
Pick an area within your yard where you will allow your Labrador Retriever to go potty. If you pick one area, you have a good chance of keeping the rest of your yard beautiful and free of dog poop or dying grass from pee spots.
Step
2
Go outside
Take your puppy to the same place in your yard each time he needs to go potty. This will set him up to go to the same place when he starts to go on his own. While you are walking to the area, use words such as ‘go potty’ so he begins to connect going potty with that area.
Step
3
Know when to go
Your Labrador Retriever puppy will need to be taken out to his potty area as soon as he wakes up from any nap or nighttime sleep. Do not make your pup wait. Be sure to get him outside and to his potty spot so he can go potty without having an accident. He’ll also need to go after each of his meals. Be sure to get him outside to his spot within minutes of eating so he has a chance to go when the urge hits.
Step
4
Hourly
Your Labrador puppy should be able to hold it for one hour per month of age. So if you have a nine week old Labrador Retriever puppy, he should be able to wait about two hours to go potty.
Step
5
Rewards
When you take your puppy to his special place and he goes potty, give him a tasty treat. Offering some enthusiasm will also get your pup excited and proud of his achievement.
Step
6
Redirect
Your Labrador Retriever puppy is likely to have accidents if he is not taken outside to his special potty area on time. Be sure to watch for the signs he needs to go such as sniffing in the house or circling in an area inside. Get him outside right away to go potty. In the event your puppy has an accident, get him outside to his potty spot and try to be there earlier next time. Scolding him will be counterproductive.
Recommend training method?
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Written by Stephanie Plummer

Published: 02/21/2018, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Holley
Labrador Retriever
10 Weeks
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Question
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Holley
Labrador Retriever
10 Weeks

Hello, my lab puppy is having some trouble with potty training. I let her out about every 15 minutes when I am home. I work everyday, M-F, but I try to go home during my lunch break to let her out but while I am working, she stays in a room that is closed off from the rest of the house. At night time she sleeps with me and has only had one accident in the bed but she is now learning to jump off of the bed and she ends up going to the potty on the floor somewhere in the house.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kaleigh, I suggest crating Holly at night and while you are gone during the day. When you are home, take her potty every 1-1.5 hours. When you are gone, she should be able to hold her bladder for up to three hours. If you cannot let you outside by that time, then you will either need to hire someone to come by to let her outside while you are gone, or teach her to use a real grass pad, and put it in an exercise pen attached to her crate that you set up in that room, and have her stay in there whiile you are gone. At night she should be crated because she will only get better at getting away from you, will soon develop stronger jaws and can injure herself tearing up and eating objects she finds, and the accidents will undo your potty training. If she cries to go potty during the night, take her outside, but keep the trips very boring, take her on a leash, then put her right back into the crate after she goes potty, and ignore any crying once you know that her bladder is empty. Doing so will help her learn to sleep through the night sooner. Crying the first week is normal so stay strong and don't give in to letting her out when she doesn't need to pee or the process will take even longer. Once she is potty trained and past the chewing phase closer to a year, then you can transition her to sleeping with you again if you would like. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Crate Training" method. When you are home, during the day you can also use the "Tethering" method from that article too. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside A real grass pad you can purchase...You can also make your own using a shallow plastic bin and a piece of grass sod cut to fit into the bin. https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=pd_cp_199_2?pd_rd_w=oO78t&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=9MD3NDA0JE0QWFMTHG5X&pd_rd_r=0908750d-1393-11e9-b0a0-27ce6bb31295&pd_rd_wg=kISpu&pd_rd_i=B005G7S6UI&psc=1&refRID=9MD3NDA0JE0QWFMTHG5X Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Lily
Labrador Retriever
7 Weeks
1 found helpful
Question
1 found helpful
Lily
Labrador Retriever
7 Weeks

I’ve just recently received a chocolate Labrador puppy and right now I’m am trying to crate train and potty train my puppy. She is currently 7 weeks old and has a big problem of doing most of her business in the house and carpet, she is biting too hard and often and she doesn’t listen to me when I call her name. I’ve never raised and trained a puppy and I really just need the help.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Eric, Congratulations on the new puppy! The good news is that all of things that you are dealing with are normal for this age. To work on the potty training, check out the article that I have linked below. I recommend following the "Crate Training" method because it will be the most effective, involve the fewest accidents, and probably work the fastest. You can do a combination of the crate training method and the "Tethering" method too though. At this age, Lilly's maximum bladder capacity is only three hours. She physically cannot hold it for longer than that. To prevent accidents, she needs to be taken outside every hour when you are home, or be in the crate anytime that you need her to hold it for longer. While she is in the crate, her instinct to hold her bladder in a confined space will kick in and help her hold it, but not past three hours. At night her bladder slows down too, letting her hold it for longer than that. Here is the article. It will also cover introducing the crate for crate training, but crying for the first two weeks is normal, so try to stay encouraged and be consistent and it will pay off in the long run. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside For the mouthing biting, check out this article that I have linked below. You can start with the "Bite-Inhibition" method, but also work on teaching the "Leave It" command from the "Leave It" method. Once Lilly is four-to-five months of age, you can then tell her "Leave It" whenever she starts to bite you, and then use the "Pressure" method to gently discipline her if she does not stop when you tell her to "Leave It". You want to start with the "Bite Inhibition" method though, because right now she does not have good control of her mouth and is simply doing what is natural. As you work on that and work on teaching her "Leave It", she should get better at controlling herself and should understand what you want from her. If you go straight to punishment at this age, before teaching those things, then she might get even more excited or crazy because she doesn't understand. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Finally, I suggest looking for a puppy class in your area that allows time for supervised off-leash puppy play, where owners and trainers give the puppies breaks when one puppy seems overwhelmed and helps the puppies play nicely. A class that also practices the owners and classmates handling and touching the puppies while giving treats, to get them used to being handled and groomed, and teaches some basic obedience like sit. Puppy classes are most important for socialization and teaching puppies how to control their mouths through playing with other puppies. Obedience is an added bonus. If you have any friends with puppies who are up to date on shots, then you can also set up play dates at your homes for the puppies, to let them play and learn, and you can give them breaks when one puppy seems to need a break. When you look for a puppy class, look for one that requires all the puppies to be up to date on shots, that cleans the floor where the puppies will be right before they arrive with a cleaner that kills Parvo and Distemper, and when you go carry your puppy in until you get into the enclosed area where only the other puppies are and the floor has been cleaned, to prevent your puppy from catching a disease from another adult that was on property. Puppies catch Parvo from the ground where dog poop has been tracked or through direct contact from infected dogs, so carrying your puppy to keep him away from the uncleaned ground and un-vaccinated dogs helps him stay safe without having to delay puppy class attendance for as long. For a free comprehensive book on puppies you can also go to: www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads Check out the "AFTER You Get Your Puppy" ebook. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Brownie
Labrador Retriever
10 Weeks
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Question
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Brownie
Labrador Retriever
10 Weeks

Hi my problem is the potty training
I have a big bath Not used and i place brownie in this bath with crate and i put inside the bathtub a training pad
Brownie wee on the pad and also outside the pad when i get it out to play with the kids in the salon
(I have 3 small kids )
I can take brownie to the terrace to potty under a tree but I didn’t try this for now
I dunno how to train him and get full result
Can you help please

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Jessica, First, I suggest purchasing disposable real grass pads instead of using pee pads for this. Since pup will be going potty outside as an adult due to size, the consistency of grass will help the process go easier now and also help avoid confusion with peeing on rugs and carpet later. Disposable real grass pads - also on amazon: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Place the grass pads in the tub - starting with enough grass pads to line the bottom of the tub while teaching this, or remove all bath mats from the bathroom and set up an exercise pen lined with grass pads in the bathroom, or another room without carpet, that can be closed off later when you are teaching pup to no longer go potty in the house. During the day, confine pup in the bathtub or exercise pen until they go potty there on the grass, and reward with treats and give some freedom after they go, returning them to the grass area until they go again when their bladder starts to fill again (probably 45 minutes of freedom before they need to be returned to the grass). Do this whenever you cannot supervise pup to take them potty outside every hour. When pup is doing well with the grass pads, you can gradually remove the extra ones slowly in a couple of weeks, so that pup is eventually left with just one grass pad - to make this cheaper. Since you also want pup to learn to go potty outside because of size, you can either take pup potty outside whenever you are home, rewarding with treats and praise when they potty outside, then crate training and going potty only outside when they are old enough to hold it in the crate while you are away - phasing out the indoor grass as early as your schedule allows, OR you can go straight to outside potty training at this age if you are home often enough. To go straight to outdoor potty training, check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Philly
Labrador Mix
7 Months
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Question
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Philly
Labrador Mix
7 Months

Hey there, a couple of questions. My puppy wont go to poop outside. She has not once since we have had her. I can keep her outside for 25-30mins and she will pee but wont poop then as soon as we get inside she will poop. Another issue, recently she has been peeing on the furniture while looking right at me.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Dayna, Check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. Pup needs to be crated strictly using the method below asap. When you take pup potty, tell him to "Go Potty" and give a treat after he pees. Next, walk pup around again and tell him to "Go Potty" again - giving pup twice as pup time to poop as it took for peeing - most pups get distracted with pooping while outside and need to be taken potty on a leash and walked around slowly and kept on task to go. If pup doesn't poop, and hasn't yet during that part of the day (most dogs will poop during the morning and early evening - within a couple hours of breakfast and dinner, sometimes 15-30 minutes after eating), then put pup back into the crate for 45 minutes - 1 hour, then try taking pup potty again. Carry pup to and from the crate if he may poop in the house on the way. Make sure the crate is set up like the method described - if it's too big or you put anything absorbent in there it may not work. You want to work on keeping pup focused while outside - using a leash and slowly walking around and teaching "Go Potty". You want to limit pup's freedom to times when pup is empty - so pup can't poop in the house and is motivated to hold it in a confined space - the crate. You also want to clean up any accident spots you can recall with a cleaner that contains enzyme - only enzymes remove the smell completely and remaining smell will only encourage pup to go potty there again - which could be related to the marking that's started. Because of the leg lifting in the house also, when pup is out of the crate (because he pottied outside) he needs to be attached to you with a leash (check out the tethering method also found in the article linked below). Pup won't be able to wander away to make, so when pup leg lifts while standing next to you, clap loudly three times and say "AH AH" firmly but calmly. You want to surprise pup and make the leg lifting a bit unpleasant. Be sure to reward pup for pottying on the leash for you outside though - so that pup will want to potty outside for you and also learn that it's peeing inside that's unacceptable and not peeing in front of you that's the problem - pup pees in front of you outside and is rewarded, pup pees inside and is interrupted. Crate Training and Tethering methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Cookie
Golden Retriever
10 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
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Cookie
Golden Retriever
10 Weeks

I want to potty train my dog.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sindi, I suggest following the Crate Training method or a combination of the Crate Training method and Tethering method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Wrangler
Labrador Retriever
4 Months
0 found helpful
Question
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Wrangler
Labrador Retriever
4 Months

Just rescued a lab puppy 4 months old about 2 weeks ago. He's learning to go outside both No. 1 and 2 but still goes No. 2 inside every now and then--usually when we don't immediately crate him. My question is this: How long does it take for puppies to finally understand the gig? We do the crate thing, give positive reinforcement, etc. We also have two older dogs, another lab and a boxer who are fully house-broken.

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Mook, First, know that the more accidents you can prevent through careful management and supervision the quicker potty training tends to go. Crate Training and attaching pup to yourself with a 6-8 foot hands-free leash are some of the most consistent ways to prevent accidents to help potty training progress more smoothly - crate or tether pup to yourself unless you know they have fully relieved themselves outside within the past hour. In general, potty training takes most puppies about three months if done correctly. Potty training is usually defined as a dog holding it between potty trips while inside - but you still are the one initiating them being taken outside on a schedule. It generally takes a few more months for a dog to learn to tell you when they need to go - instead of them depending on you to take them on a schedule. Expecting too much and giving too much freedom too soon will slow down the process as a general rule. Know that at only two weeks in, pup's progress is very normal. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Chloie
Labrador Retriever
4 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Chloie
Labrador Retriever
4 Months

Pee. The

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Roseann, I suggest following the Crate Training or Tethering method from the article linked below. You can also do a combination of both - using the crate when you can't supervise pup and the tethering method when you want more time with pup. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Zoe
Lab mix
5 Months
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Question
0 found helpful
Zoe
Lab mix
5 Months

We got Zoe when she was 4 months old, but she was not fully potty trained. She goes in the house and no matter what I do, I can’t seem to stop it. Crate training isn’t working with me. She is being quite difficult and I do t know what to do. How should I potty train her?

Darlene Stott
Darlene Stott
Dog Trainer and Groomer
104 Dog owners recommended

Thank you for the question. Potty training can sometimes be hard, yes but persistence will pay off. Keep trying with patience as you are doing. Make sure that you are cleaning messes with an enzymatic cleaner to remove all of the odor. If Zoe smells anything left behind from an accident, she will continue to pee inside (do not use ammonia, it smells like pee to a dog). This guide is excellent. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside The Timing Method may help. Crate training is not working for you but see if any of the tips in The Crate Training Method do the trick. Also, take Zoe out very often and praise her highly and even give treats when she has success outside. Good luck!

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Question
Zoori
Labrador Retriever
3 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Zoori
Labrador Retriever
3 Months

How can I tran my pupy for potty

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
233 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am going to send you information on potty training and crate training. If your dog doesn't start to pick up on potty training in about a week, it might be wise to start using a crate to help in the process. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Sandy
Labrador Retriever
9 Weeks
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Sandy
Labrador Retriever
9 Weeks

9 week old yellow Labrador puppy need some advice with crate training at night and potty training

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Vanessa, Check out the Surprise method from the article linked below. Practice that method during the day when home to help pup adjust to the crate sooner in general, so that pup will be more content in the crate at night as well. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate For potty training, check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. Once pup is doing well with that, you can also use the Tethering method part of the time when home if you wish. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside At this age, it's normal for pup to need about 2 potty trips at night still. The main goal is to help pup learn to only wake when they truly have to go potty and not for attention or other reasons - so that as their bladder capacity increases they will sleep through the night on their own with age. Practice the surprise method during the day, but when you crate pup at night remove all food and water 2 hours before bedtime, take pup potty right before crating, and espect pup to cry at first - ignore the crying - plan to go to bed 1-2 hours early and read to avoid loosing sleep while doing this is my suggestion. Most puppies will cry 15 minutes -90 minutes before falling asleep at first. The first three days tend to be the worst, but up to two weeks of some crying is still normal, the surprise method during the day should help. When pup wakes to go potty after at least 2 hours since the last pottying, take pup potty outside on a leash, don't give treat, play or attention, keep things boring. Return pup to the crate immediately after and ignore any crying then. Repeat that for each potty trip. Wait to feed pup in the morning until it's the time you want pup to learn to sleep until in the future to help their internal clock set to that time. The first week tends to mean a lot of lots sleep for most people. If you're consistent you should start to see gradual improvement over the next few days though, until pup is only waking 1-2 times, then even less than that in a few weeks when their bladder capacity increases, until they can consistently hold it all night. Check out the free PDF e-book AFTER You Get Your Puppy you can download from the link below, and congratulations on your new puppy! www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Emi
Labrador Retriever
18 Months
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Emi
Labrador Retriever
18 Months

Is it possible to change her place from inside the house to front balcony in the same house? If yes, how? Please tell me. Thanks

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Malay, Are you wanting to change the potty location or another location, like sleeping? Assuming you mean potty, I recommend following the Crate Training or Exercise Pen method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Pogo
Labrador Retriever
3 Months
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Pogo
Labrador Retriever
3 Months

He poops at midnight Or anytime at night. How can i stop him from pooping at night in the home??

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Riya, First, what time are you feeding pup dinner at? If it's later than 6pm I would move dinner earlier if possible - pup will need to poop after dinner before bed, and it can be delayed. Second, when you take pup potty in general, but especially in the evening, slowly walk them around on leash, and encourage pup to sniff and find a spot. Do this to get pup to pee, and say "Go Potty", then give a treat after pup pees. After pup pees, walk them around for another 15 minutes and tell pup to "Go Potty" again. If pup poops, praise and give four small treats or pieces of kibble (one piece at a time to make it seem extra rewarding). The movement and taking pup potty on leash are especially important to keep pup focused on going and the movement and sniffing should help pup feel the urge to go. If pup won't go, return home, crate for an hour, then try again. Start this process a couple hours before bed at least. If pup is pooping more than 3-4 times in a day, I recommend a trip to your vet to get pup checked out for parasites, an infection or other illness that can cause diarrhea or loose stools. I am not a vet. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Simmba
Labrador Retriever
8 Months
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Simmba
Labrador Retriever
8 Months

I'm training Simmba since last 8months. But he is not being potty trained. I am really exhausted and frustrated. He signals me when it's time to go for potty so I take him out. But once we go down he does not do his business. Hes quite stronghead and adamant. Please help

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
233 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use a crate to help with potty training Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Blue
Labrador Retriever
6 Weeks
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Blue
Labrador Retriever
6 Weeks

We are crate training him and using pads till he’s older then we will move him outside he’s doing fairly well with peeing on the pad but wants to poop everywhere else every time. Why is it he will pee on pad but not poop

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
233 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Some dogs need a lot of space to sniff around to find just the right spot to poop. My only advice for this is to make the pad space larger by putting down more pads. This should help him, and also if you are near him for potty time, keep redirecting him to the pad and reward him with treats for going on it.

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Honey
Labradoodle
12 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
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Honey
Labradoodle
12 Weeks

Our puppy is “ piddling” everytime someone comes in the house from excitement. We try not giving her attention right away until she calms down but sometimes still does it. Also she hasn’t grasped on yet to go to the door when she needs to potty. The water goes straight through her!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kelli, Know that most puppies don't learn to let you know when they need to go until they have been accident free due to you keeping a strict potty schedule for them for 3-6 months. Right now the main potty training goal is for pup's job to be to try to hold it between potty trips and for your job to be to take them out on a consistent schedule. At 3 months, expect to take pup potty every 1.5 when they are not in a crate. When crated they should be able to hold it a maximum of 3-4 hours during the day, with trips outside happening more often when you are home. For the excited peeing, check out the article I have linked below. Excited peeing is very common at this age, most puppies will grow out of it if you can minimize how often it happens through managing the best you can. Taking pup potty more often so it's not as hard for them to hold their bladders can help, keeping a drag leash on pup when you are there to supervise to make sure it doesn't get caught on anything, can help by minimizing you having to touch pup to take them outside when their bladder is full or they are excited, keeping your voice calm, and like you are already doing - ignoring pup when you first get home, and not getting angry when they do excitement pee - but quietly rushing them outside after instead then cleaning up the pee silently. You want to keep emotions as calm as possible with excited peeing and submissive peeing. Submissive peeing - which is often part of the issue too: https://wagwalking.com/training/stop-submissive-peeing Excited peeing: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-pee-when-excited Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Bailey
Labrador Retriever
5 Weeks
0 found helpful
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Bailey
Labrador Retriever
5 Weeks

Whenever he needs to poop he does it wherever he feels like it and also pees wherever. He has also been chewing on cables and shoes and everything he can sink his teeth into. And when I try to take him a shower he moves constantly.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
233 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. Using a crate would also help with destructive behaviors. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Allie
Labrador Retriever
3 Months
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Allie
Labrador Retriever
3 Months

She doesn't go to the bathroom. We tried to take him there. But he doesn't like the place.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
233 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Max
Black Labrador Retriever
3 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Max
Black Labrador Retriever
3 Months

Max is very stubborn and won’t come to me when I call him

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
906 Dog owners recommended

Hello Justin, Check out the two articles I have linked below for teaching come and motivating pup to do it, as you can see from the articles, come is something you start small with and build on gradually to gain reliability. Once pup has learned what come means, keeping a drag leash on pup in the house when you are there to supervise to make sure it doesn't get caught on something can also help them learn. When you tell them to come and they don't, simply go over to them calmly, pick up the end of the leash, then lead them back to where you called them from originally calmly. Repeat that a few times until pup comes willingly when you call, then let them go back to what they were doing before, rewarding their coming also. Come: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More come - basic through advanced: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Expect a reliable come to involve a lot of repetition with intentional training sessions to practice that and other obedience commands. Training is mostly practice and consistency. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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