Your Labrador Retriever puppy is going to be a great companion. He will want to work hard around the house, play a lot, and work to please you. When it’s time to start training, trust your Lab puppy is going to do his best to learn everything he can during every training session.
Potty training your puppy will be easy as long as you are dedicated to setting him up to succeed. He is intelligent and easy to train. You can begin training your Labrador Retriever puppy where to go potty and how to communicate his needs to you as soon as you bring him home. It will take some time and repetitive training for him to connect all the dots, but he will pick it all up quickly as long as you are getting him to his potty places as soon as you can.
Potty training a Labrador Retriever puppy will require you to have a potty spot set in place before training begins. You should know where you want your little Lab to go potty and avoid making changes to that spot during training. Taking him to his potty spot consistently and on time throughout the day and night will be key to successful potty training your pup. You will need to watch the signs and signals he will give to let you know he needs go. Getting your Lab outside as soon as you see these signals and not letting him have an accident is crucial for conditioning your puppy to let you know he needs to go potty. There will be other times you should be taking your Labrador Retriever puppy outside immediately without waiting for him to give you the signal that he needs to go. These times will include after meals and after waking from any sleep.
You will need to pay attention to your Labrador Retriever puppy for signs he needs to go potty. Also, try to be around to get him outside every few hours before accidents can occur. You’ll need lots of treats for rewarding positive behaviors and patience, as this will take some practice and time. If you find yourself frustrated, try to catch your puppy earlier and get him outside.
Hello, my lab puppy is having some trouble with potty training. I let her out about every 15 minutes when I am home. I work everyday, M-F, but I try to go home during my lunch break to let her out but while I am working, she stays in a room that is closed off from the rest of the house. At night time she sleeps with me and has only had one accident in the bed but she is now learning to jump off of the bed and she ends up going to the potty on the floor somewhere in the house.
Hello Kaleigh, I suggest crating Holly at night and while you are gone during the day. When you are home, take her potty every 1-1.5 hours. When you are gone, she should be able to hold her bladder for up to three hours. If you cannot let you outside by that time, then you will either need to hire someone to come by to let her outside while you are gone, or teach her to use a real grass pad, and put it in an exercise pen attached to her crate that you set up in that room, and have her stay in there whiile you are gone. At night she should be crated because she will only get better at getting away from you, will soon develop stronger jaws and can injure herself tearing up and eating objects she finds, and the accidents will undo your potty training. If she cries to go potty during the night, take her outside, but keep the trips very boring, take her on a leash, then put her right back into the crate after she goes potty, and ignore any crying once you know that her bladder is empty. Doing so will help her learn to sleep through the night sooner. Crying the first week is normal so stay strong and don't give in to letting her out when she doesn't need to pee or the process will take even longer. Once she is potty trained and past the chewing phase closer to a year, then you can transition her to sleeping with you again if you would like. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Crate Training" method. When you are home, during the day you can also use the "Tethering" method from that article too. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside A real grass pad you can purchase...You can also make your own using a shallow plastic bin and a piece of grass sod cut to fit into the bin. https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=pd_cp_199_2?pd_rd_w=oO78t&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=9MD3NDA0JE0QWFMTHG5X&pd_rd_r=0908750d-1393-11e9-b0a0-27ce6bb31295&pd_rd_wg=kISpu&pd_rd_i=B005G7S6UI&psc=1&refRID=9MD3NDA0JE0QWFMTHG5X Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I’ve just recently received a chocolate Labrador puppy and right now I’m am trying to crate train and potty train my puppy. She is currently 7 weeks old and has a big problem of doing most of her business in the house and carpet, she is biting too hard and often and she doesn’t listen to me when I call her name. I’ve never raised and trained a puppy and I really just need the help.
Hello Eric, Congratulations on the new puppy! The good news is that all of things that you are dealing with are normal for this age. To work on the potty training, check out the article that I have linked below. I recommend following the "Crate Training" method because it will be the most effective, involve the fewest accidents, and probably work the fastest. You can do a combination of the crate training method and the "Tethering" method too though. At this age, Lilly's maximum bladder capacity is only three hours. She physically cannot hold it for longer than that. To prevent accidents, she needs to be taken outside every hour when you are home, or be in the crate anytime that you need her to hold it for longer. While she is in the crate, her instinct to hold her bladder in a confined space will kick in and help her hold it, but not past three hours. At night her bladder slows down too, letting her hold it for longer than that. Here is the article. It will also cover introducing the crate for crate training, but crying for the first two weeks is normal, so try to stay encouraged and be consistent and it will pay off in the long run. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside For the mouthing biting, check out this article that I have linked below. You can start with the "Bite-Inhibition" method, but also work on teaching the "Leave It" command from the "Leave It" method. Once Lilly is four-to-five months of age, you can then tell her "Leave It" whenever she starts to bite you, and then use the "Pressure" method to gently discipline her if she does not stop when you tell her to "Leave It". You want to start with the "Bite Inhibition" method though, because right now she does not have good control of her mouth and is simply doing what is natural. As you work on that and work on teaching her "Leave It", she should get better at controlling herself and should understand what you want from her. If you go straight to punishment at this age, before teaching those things, then she might get even more excited or crazy because she doesn't understand. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Finally, I suggest looking for a puppy class in your area that allows time for supervised off-leash puppy play, where owners and trainers give the puppies breaks when one puppy seems overwhelmed and helps the puppies play nicely. A class that also practices the owners and classmates handling and touching the puppies while giving treats, to get them used to being handled and groomed, and teaches some basic obedience like sit. Puppy classes are most important for socialization and teaching puppies how to control their mouths through playing with other puppies. Obedience is an added bonus. If you have any friends with puppies who are up to date on shots, then you can also set up play dates at your homes for the puppies, to let them play and learn, and you can give them breaks when one puppy seems to need a break. When you look for a puppy class, look for one that requires all the puppies to be up to date on shots, that cleans the floor where the puppies will be right before they arrive with a cleaner that kills Parvo and Distemper, and when you go carry your puppy in until you get into the enclosed area where only the other puppies are and the floor has been cleaned, to prevent your puppy from catching a disease from another adult that was on property. Puppies catch Parvo from the ground where dog poop has been tracked or through direct contact from infected dogs, so carrying your puppy to keep him away from the uncleaned ground and un-vaccinated dogs helps him stay safe without having to delay puppy class attendance for as long. For a free comprehensive book on puppies you can also go to: www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads Check out the "AFTER You Get Your Puppy" ebook. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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