Hello Claire, Is the bottom something pup could also push with her nose? Is so, I would try putting a small amount of liver paste or soft cheese on the button to get pup to push it, pointing at the smear of food on the button, then rewarding with additional treats when pup touches it hard enough to open the doors. Once pup will eagerly touch it in anticipation of the treat smear, then just point to the button without the smear and give the treat after. If pup can't push with their nose, then I suggest teaching Paw, then placing your hand on the button once pup is trained to put their paw in your hand, then moving your hand away after pup associates hitting the button behind your hand with the reward also. I suggest a different approach. With pup sitting in front of you, tap the back of pup's front paw until they light it slightly off the ground, while happily saying "Paw or Shake". As soon as they move it at all, praise enthusiastically and reward with a treat. Repeat this until pup starts to lift the paw all the way off the ground - then reward. When pup is lifting the paw up, require pup to lift it higher before rewarding with a treat. Continue to praise for attempts though. When pup will lift the paw a couple of inches off the ground when you tap and say shake, start to tell pup to Shake, then wait seven seconds, then tap to remind pup if they don't lift on their own. Do this until pup starts to lift the paw consistently without needing the tap a few seconds later. When pup can lift when you say paw, place your hand under their paw when they lift it, praise and reward right when their paw touches your hand - even though you caused it to. Repeat. Next, place your hand slightly below where pup's lifted paw is, wait until pup lowers their paw a bit - accidentally touching your hand on their own (by accident on their part at first), as soon as pup touches your hand on their own because your hand was under the paw, praise and reward. Repeat until pup starts to intentionally touch your hand because they are associating it with the treat being given. When pup starts to understand that touching your hand is what earns them the treat, wait until pup puts their paw all the way into your hand, rather than just touching it slightly, before you reward. Practice this often for lots of short training sessions frequently, rather than fewer long ones to help pup focus and not get as distracted during training.Expect this to take several days or weeks to teach, not just one or two sessions. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

May 5, 2022

Hello Robert, Is Adam aggressive with other dogs, reserved, overly excited, or acting another way around other dogs. If pup is aggressive or reactive, I would see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area you can attend with pup. If pup is shy, you can work on gradually increasing his confidence around other dogs through counter conditioning, and calm activities with others, like structured heeling dog walks or hikes where everyone is on leash at first, or a class, where pup can get used to being in the presence of other dogs without direct confrontation. Check out the article I have linked below on shyness. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-socialize-a-shy-dog/ Check out Kikopup on youtube to learn more about counter conditioning and addressing fearfulness. For aggression, I don't recommend the tips on shyness or counter conditioning a fear response alone. I would look for a class that's specific to aggression and reactivity or work one-on-one with a training group that has a lot of experience with those behaviors and comes well recommended for their work with aggression, who can help you counter condition and practice obedience commands and structure around other dogs with safety measures in place to avoid a bite or redirected bite toward you. Aggression work should be practiced with more safety measures in place and carefully, to avoid injury to anyone or the behavior getting worse. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Nov. 26, 2021