Hello Emily, Check out the article linked below. Starting today, use the "Bite Inhibition" method. BUT at the same time, begin teaching "Leave It" from the "Leave It" method. As soon as pup is good as the Leave It game, start telling pup to "Leave It" when he attempts to bite or is tempted to bite. Reward pup if he makes a good choice. If he disobeys your leave it command, use the Pressure method to gently discipline pup for biting when you told him not to. The order or all of this is very important - the Bite Inhibition method can be used for the next couple of weeks while pup is learning leave it, but leave it will teach pup to stop the biting entirely. The pressure method teaches pup that you mean what you say without being overly harsh - but because you have taught pup to leave it first, pup clearly understands that you are not just roughhousing (which is what pup probably thinks most of the time right now), so it is more effective. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite I would also work on teaching the Out command, and then use the section from the article on How to Use Out to Deal with Pushiness, to enforce it when pup doesn't listen, especially around other animals or kids. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Another important part of this is puppy learning bite inhibition. Puppies have to learn while young how to control the pressure of their mouths - this is typically done through play with other puppies. See if there is a puppy class in your area that comes well recommended and has time for moderated off-leash puppy play. If you can't join a class, look for a free puppy play group, or recruit some friends with puppies to come over if you can and create your own group. You are looking for puppies under 6 months of age - since young puppies play differently than adult dogs. Moderate the puppies' play and whenever one pup seems overwhelmed or they are all getting too excited, interrupt their play, let everyone calm down, then let the most timid pup go first to see if they still want to play - if they do, then you can let the other puppies go too when they are waiting for permission. Finding a good puppy class - no class will be ideal but here's what to shoot for: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/puppy-classes-when-to-start/ When pup gets especially wound up, he probably needs a nap too. At this age puppies will sometimes get really hyper when they are overtired or haven't had any mental stimulation through something like training. When you spot that and think pup could be tired, place pup in their crate or an exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong for a bit to help him calm down and rest. Finally, check out the PDF e-book downloads found on this website, written by one of the founders of the association of professional dog trainers, and a pioneer in starting puppy kindergarten classes in the USA. Click on the pictures of the puppies to download the PDF books: https://www.lifedogtraining.com/freedownloads/ Know that mouthiness at this age is completely normal. It's not fun but it is normal for it to take some time for a puppy to learn self-control well enough to stop. Try not to get discouraged if you don't see instant progress, any progress and moving in the right direction in this area is good, so keep working at it. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

June 24, 2022

Hello Jancy, First, pup needs to be evaluated to determine why the dogs are fighting/being attacked. Is pup possessive of you, resource guarding objects, are they intimidating each other with pushiness, stares, posturing, or other body language signals, is there a dominance/competing dynamic, ect...? How you address this will depend a lot on what type of aggression and what's triggering it. In general, desensitizing any dog engaging in a fight to a basket muzzle, working on building respect for you through obedience command practice, consistently being the one who makes and enforces rules calmly, instead of the dogs doing it for each other, not tolerating things like pushiness with you, blocking another dog's access to something, intimidating stares, or other general bullying/pushy behavior at home. Working on commands that help with boundaries, like Place, Leave It, Off, Out, and Crate Training, and likely desensitizing or counter conditioning pup to the presence of the other dog in some way. I recommend hiring a professional trainer or training group that specializes in behavior issues like aggression, who will come to your home to evaluate the dogs in person and work in that environment where there is probably the most tension between them, and can help teach you how to train and work with them too. Look for someone who comes well recommended by their previous clients for their work with aggression and things like resource guarding. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Nov. 17, 2021