It’s relentless, bordering on deafening. As soon as you open the door, he’s barking. As soon as it approaches meal time he’s barking because he wants his food. If he wants any attention then he starts barking. If he needs to go out to the toilet, he’ll bark at you until you take him out. There’s no shutting him up either, he’s stubborn. He’ll keep barking until he gets what he wants and it’s driving everyone in the house up the wall. You all love him, but the barking has to stop.
If you can train your dog to stop barking you can enjoy relaxing and peaceful evenings. You won’t have to turn the volume up to hear the TV. It will also mean you can take him to public places without being embarrassed by his constant ramblings.
Training your dog not to bark won’t be a walk in the park, especially if he’s stubborn. You’ll need to address the underlying cause of his barking. If it’s attention-seeking behavior, you’ll need to stop giving in when he barks. You can also train him to bark and then be quiet on command. This will allow you to quickly silence him when the barking does start. If he’s a stubborn little puppy he should still be receptive and may respond to training in just a week. If he’s older and been barking for many years you may need up to three weeks to finally put a pin in it.
Succeed with this training and your house will return to a quiet environment where you can take phone calls. You’ll also be woken up by your alarm in the morning instead of his barking.
Before you can get to work you’ll need to gather a few bits. Treats or some tasty food broken into small pieces will play an important part. For one of the methods, you’ll also need to invest in a deterrence collar. You may also need a water bottle (more on that later).
For one of the methods, you’ll need to set aside 10 minutes each day for training. For the other methods, you’ll need to be around him as much as possible to react to his barking as and when.
The only other things you’ll need are ear plugs and patience. Once you’ve got all of that you can get to work!
Stella is a rescue who came with some behavioral issues. She constantly barks at strangers in places she feels comfortable, especially males. For example, on walks, or at work where she is invited to come daily if she sees someone she is not friends with she will go insane barking, lunging and and annoying these people. Because these are familiar places for her she tends to feel comfortable with baking aggressively at strangers. She does not act this way in unfamiliar places and actually acts quite nervous and scared. I have tried ultrasonic collars, pet corrector spray cans and telling her no, but she doesn't respond to any of them. How can I fix this? I'm desperate, since she is a rescue and has been rehomed multiple times I am not willing to give up.
Hello Justine, It sounds like Stella needs to be desensitized to strangers, especially since, although she is quiet, she is still nervous around strangers at other locations too. This means that the aggression is probably fear-based. Recruit as many friends and people as you can, who Stella does not know and tends to bark at, to help you get her used to strangers one person at a time. Have your volunteer walk toward her until Stella gets a bit tense but is still under control. When the person is close enough for her to notice them, then have the person toss her treats from that distance. Have them toss her a treat before she has a chance to react in the first place, whenever she gets quiet for even a second, and whenever she calms down a bit. Continue the treats for as long as she is doing well, until you run out of treats during that session. You can use her own dog food pieces as treats for this if she is very food motivated. To make her own food more interesting, you can also put her own food into a zip-lock bag with a kibble topper treats, which are usually freeze dried meat, that have been mashed up into powder. Letting the food sit in the powder in the bag overnight should make the dog food more enticing. As she improves, then have the person get closer while practice the treat tossing. When the person can stand right in front of her and she will remain calm, then let Stella greet the person if she chooses to. Let Stella be the one to initiate the interaction though. If she initiates an interaction, then have the person feed her treats from her hand, one treat at a time. You can add a bit of touch with every treat if she becomes completely relaxed around the person. While the person is tossing the treats, have the person ignore Stella in other ways and not speak to her or act too exciting at first. Practice this scenario with a new person whenever Stella becomes comfortable with the current person. You can also practice this with different people during the same week, but only do one person per interaction. The goal should be a lot of different people over the coming months. You want her to interact with enough people for her to generalize the experience to all people and not just a couple of people that she was fed by. When she is out in public with you and quiet but nervous, then whenever you approach a person or she notices someone, praise her, do a fun little dance to get her excited, and give her a couple of treats. You want her to look forward to people being present because it is fun and rewarding for her. Even though she does not bark at those people, dealing with her underlying fear should help her response toward people at the office too. If you cannot practice her training at the office at first because she is too reactive, then have people come to your home if she tends to act aggressively toward visitors there too. She should also be comfortable in that environment, and likely to react. Other locations where she is reactive will work too. Leave her at home from work during the day if you can while you are working on the training at home and in other, non-office locations with her, so that experiences at the office do not set you back until she is ready for them. When she is doing well enough at home to be less reactive toward visitors there, then practice at the office around co-workers. You might even want to go to the office on off-hours or days if that is an option, and have some of your training volunteers meet you there to practice, before trying the real thing during work hours. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Zeppy has major separation anxiety and we cannot leave him home alone. He howls at the top of his lungs if we leave for five minutes or five hours. He does not settle. He also barks and howls at anyone that walks by the house.
Hi there. I am going to send you some information on separation anxiety. This is a multi-fold process and does take time to correct. But it is not impossible. The first step in treating separation anxiety is to break the cycle of anxiety. Every time a dog with separation anxiety becomes anxious when their owner leaves, the distress they feel is reinforced until they become absolutely frantic any time they are left alone. Owners should give the dog an acceptable item to chew, such as a long lasting food treat when they go out. The goal is to have the dog associate this special treat with the owner’s departure. Treats might include hollow bones stuffed with peanut butter or soft cheese, drilled out nylon bones, or hollow rubber chew toys such as Kong toys with similar enhancements (place these in the freezer before giving them to your dog to make them last longer). Give the bone to your dog about 15 minutes before preparing to depart. The chew toy should be used only as a reward to offset the anxiety triggered by your departure. Hiding a variety of these delectable food treats throughout the house may occupy the dog so that the owner’s departure is less stressful. In an effort to prevent destructive behavior, many owners confine their dog in a crate or behind a gate. For dogs that display “barrier frustration,” the use of a crate in this way is counterproductive. Many dogs will physically injure themselves while attempting to escape such confinement. Careful efforts to desensitize and counter condition the dog to crate confinement before leaving them alone may be helpful in some cases. However, some dogs rebel against any form of restraint, including restricting barriers and, for them, crate training may never be a positive experience. Crate training and utilizing the crate while people are home can be a positive way to make the crate a safe place. If you utilize it when people are around, your dog won’t necessarily associate the crate with departure and being left alone. Creating nap time in the crate throughout the day can also be helpful. Building Independence Independence training can help fight separation anxiety and loneliness. Independence training can help build confidence and instill obedience. Independence training is one of the more important aspects of the program. It involves teaching your dog to “stand on their own four feet” when you are present, with the express intention that their newfound confidence will spill over into times when you are away. You need to make your dog more independent by reducing the bond between both of you to a more healthy level of involvement. Decreasing the bond is the hardest thing for owners to accept. Most people acquire dogs because they want a strong relationship with them. However, you have to accept that the anxiety your dog experiences in your absence is destructive. Essential components of the independence training program are as follows: Your dog can be with you, but the amount of interaction time should be reduced, especially where attention-seeking behaviors are concerned. You should initiate all interactions with your dog, and they shouldn’t be permitted to demand attention. If you give your dog attention every time they whine, it helps to foster the dog’s dependence on you and increases its anxiety in your absence. You should ignore your dog completely when they engage in attention-seeking behavior, and avoid catering to them when they appear to feel anxious. This means no eye contact, no pushing away, and no soothing talk or body language, all of which will reward their attention-seeking mission. Attention is encouraged only when your dog is sitting or lying calmly. The goal is not to ignore your dog, but to stop reinforcing attention-seeking behaviors so that your dog develops a sense of independence. Minimize the extent to which your dog follows you by teaching them to remain relaxed in one spot, such as their bed. To accomplish this, it is helpful if you train them to perform a sit-stay or down-stay while gradually increasing the time that they hold the command and remain at a distance from you. Providing a treat or toy and encouraging individual play time can be helpful. Once your dog has learned basic obedience commands, you can train them to hold long down-stays while you move progressively farther away. First, your dog should be trained to perform a “down-stay” on a mat or dog bed using a specific command, such as “lie down.” Your dog may have to be gently escorted to the designated spot the first few times. Initially, they should be rewarded every 10 seconds for remaining there, then every 20 seconds, 30 seconds, and so on. Once they have figured out what is wanted, you should switch to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement [reward], as this will strengthen the learned response. Each time your dog breaks their “stay,” issue a verbal correction, indicating that there will be no reward, and then escort them back to their bed. First, your dog can be made to “down-stay” while you are in the room. Next, they can be asked to stay when you are outside of the room, but nearby. The distance and time you are away from your dog can be increased progressively until your dog can remain in a down-stay for 20 to 30 minutes in your absence. Your dog should be warmly praised for compliance. Of course, they need to accept the praise without breaking the stay. Your dog should become accustomed to being separated from you when you are home for varying lengths of time and at different times of day. You can set up child gates to deny your dog access into the room you’re occupying (i.e. reading, watching television, or cooking). Instruct your dog to lie down and stay on a dog bed outside the room. As previously mentioned, you can provide an extended-release food treat or toy to keep your dog calm and distracted. Once they are able to tolerate being separated from you by a child gate, you can graduate to shutting the door to the room so your dog cannot see you. Allowing a dog to sleep in bed with the family can increase dependence. If you decide to prevent your dog from sleeping in your bed, there are some steps to take to establish this routine. First, you need to train your dog to sleep in their own bed on the floor in your bedroom. They may have to be taken to their bed several times before they get the message that you really want them to sleep in their own bed. Alternatively, you can train your dog to enjoy sleeping in a crate to prevent unwanted excursions. Do not use a crate if it causes more anxiety and distress for your dog. Once they tolerate sleeping in their own bed in your bedroom, you can move their bed outside of the bedroom and use a child gate or barrier to keep them out. Always remember to reward your dog with praise or a food treat for remaining in their bed. Develop Departure Techniques Many owners erroneously feel that if separation is so stressful, then they should spend more time with their dog before leaving. Unfortunately, this only exacerbates the condition. Everyone in the family should ignore your dog for 15 to 20 minutes before leaving the house and for at least 10 to 20 minutes after returning home. Alternatively, your leaving can be made a highlight of your dog’s day by making it a “happy time” and the time at which they are fed. Departures should be quick and quiet. When departures (and returns) generate less anxiety (and excitement), your dog will begin to feel less tension in your absence. Remember to reward calm behavior. Teach your dog that your departure and return are just normal parts of the day and are not times to be stressed. You should attempt to randomize the cues indicating that you are preparing to leave. Changing the cues may take some trial and error. Some cues mean nothing to a dog, while others trigger anxiety. Make a list of the things you normally do before leaving for the day (and anxiety occurs) and the things done before a short time out (and no anxiety occurs).Then mix up the cues. For example, if your dog is fine when you go downstairs to do the laundry, you can try taking the laundry basket with you when you leave for work. If your dog becomes anxious when you pick up your keys or put on a coat, you should practice these things when you are not really leaving. You can, for example, stand up, put on a coat or pick up your car keys during television commercials, and then sit down again. You can also open and shut doors while you are home when you do not intend to leave. Entering and exiting through various doors when leaving and returning can also mix up cues for your dog. When you are actually leaving, you should try not to give any cues to this effect. Leave your coat in the car and put your keys in the ignition well before leaving. It is important to randomize all the cues indicating departure (clothing, physical and vocal signals, interactions with family members, other pets, and so on). The planned departure technique can be very effective for some dogs. This program is recommended only under special circumstances because it requires that you never leave your dog alone during the entire retraining period, which can be weeks or months. Timing is everything when implementing this program. If your dog shows signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, barking excessively) the instant you walk out of the door, you should stand outside the door and wait until your dog is quiet for three seconds. Then go back inside quickly and reward your dog for being calm. If you return WHEN your dog is anxious, this reinforces your dog’s tendency to display the behavior, because it has the desired effect of reuniting the “pack” members. The goal is for your dog to connect being calm and relaxed with your return. Gradually work up to slightly longer departures 5 to 10 minutes as long as your dog remains quiet, and continue in this fashion. Eventually, you should be able to leave for the day without your dog becoming anxious when you depart. When performed correctly, this program can be very helpful in resolving separation anxiety. Other Treatment Options Obedience Training Obedience training helps to instill confidence and independence in your dog. You should spend 5 to 10 minutes daily training your dog to obey one-word commands. It may be helpful to have training sessions occur in the room where your dog will be left when you are gone. All positive experiences (food, toys, sleep, training, and attention) should be associated with this area of the home. Exercise Your dog should receive 15 to 20 minutes of sustained aerobic exercise once, preferably twice, per day. It is often helpful to exercise your dog before you leave for the day. Exercise helps to dissipate anxiety and provides constructive interaction between you and your dog. It is best to allow your dog 15 to 20 minutes to calm down before you depart. Fetching a ball is good exercise, as is going for a brisk walk or run with your dog on a leash. Even if your dog has a large yard to run in all day, the aerobic exercise will be beneficial since most dogs will not tire themselves if left to their own devices. This is incredibly helpful in dogs that are working breeds that need a job to expend energy and work their brains. Supplements Recently, supplements have been released to the public that can help dogs with anxiety. Purina created a probiotic that has been shown to reduce anxiety and provide a calming effect on some dogs. Your veterinarian may recommend this product for treating anxiety, or other products that contain L-Theanine or L-tryptophan.
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Winry barks a lot, and nothing has worked so far. She barks while running the fence with neighbor dogs, when people or animals walk by, at her ball when she gets it stuck someplace, or even at inanimate objects that get blown into the yard. She's very smart, and likes to play a game where she gets her ball stuck someplace, and then she figures out how to get it back. If she can't get it back, she barks at it non-stop. When she's running the fence barking with the neighbor dogs, she completely ignores our commands. We have to break her concentration on the play before she'll listen again. We tried a vibration bark collar, but she didn't care. So we moved to a static collar. It worked for a while, until she figured out that it didn't pick up higher pitched yips as well and that she could shake her head and move it off to the side so it wouldn't work properly. We can't tighten it any further without choking her. Now, we try to bring her inside and don't let her out again for a while, but she just goes right back to barking as soon as she's out again. We play with her several times a day, but she's relentless. She would run after the ball until her heart gave out if we didn't make her take a break.
She's also claustrophobic and tries to bury her food, even in a raised dish.
Hello, I think it is best if you call in a trainer to help you work with Winry, since you have a lot of concerns. I would consider methods other than the collar. Teach Winry the quiet command as described here in the Quiet Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark. This method can be used in many situations. As well, there are tips here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-to-not-bark. Working on things like recall may be the answer for not listening when barking with the other dogs: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall. Take Winry to a dog park and let her run with the dogs there, to tire her out. Does she have mentally stimulating toys at home? Buy her an interactive feeder and puzzle toys for mind-work. But yes, I think a private trainer who can work on the issues right at home, giving you tools to use in your yard is ideal. Sign her up for obedience classes as well. Good luck!
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Hank is the alpha in a 3 dog house. He barks aggressive at the middle dog, Taco Truck, a chihuahua, whenever we are in the house. Taco lives behind the couch. When we go to the backyard, they are best friends. Hank barks all the time. What can we do? We have tried everything the vet had recommended and he's stubborn.
Hello Casie, I suggest working on building Hank's respect for you and teaching a Quiet command. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Crate train the dogs using the crate manners and Surprise methods from the article and video linked below - especially Hank. Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Second, teach both dogs the Out command (which means leave the area) and make whoever is causing issues leave the area as needed - typically will be Hank. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Decide what your house rules are for both dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if Hank comes over to your other dog when he is trying to sleep, tell Hank Out. If he obeys, praise and reward him. If he disobeys, stand in front of your other dog, blocking the pup from getting to him, and walk toward Hank calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your other dog. If Hank growls at pup or is keeping pup from coming out from behind the couch, make him leave the room. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your dogs - you want them to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for them to learn respect for each other because you have taught it to them and not because they have used aggression. If at any point Hank displays any form of aggression toward you, it's time to hire a professional trainer who specializes in aggression to help you with this in person. Look for someone who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and has a track record of success with their previous clients in these types of areas, and whose methods you feel comfortable with. Teach both dogs the Place command and work up to having them both stay on their separate Place beds calmly for 1-2 hours. This is a great calming, self-control building, and tolerance exercise. It helps build confidence with your timid dog and self-control and respect with Hank. It also helps get them both in a working, more respectful mindset while in the same room as each other. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Finally, work on manners and building respect and trust for you with both dogs - this is most important with Hank, but doing some of this with the timid dog can help boost confidence as well. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel All three methods with Hank, the Consistency and Obedience methods specifically for your more timid pup: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Justin will bark at people passing by the yard, whether he knows them or not (worse if there is a dog with the human), whenever he does this we either call him in (if he wants to listen) or go out, put on a leash, and bring him in. He knows the "quiet" command but is very stubborn and listens only when he feels like it.
Next up, he will start barking incessantly at the crack of dawn for food. And will not stop. I have attempted to tell him quiet and praising him for going quiet, and also attempted to let him out of the cage (after he is quiet) and let him hang out in the bed while I get some more shut eye. He gets fed at 7am, he starts this barking and attention seeking at 5am and keeps going until 7am. I cannot feed him later or earlier due to the schedule I am on with work, as well as him needing his medicine at designated times.
He will go quiet when he hears movement from my bedroom but will start again after a few minutes.
I have tried ignoring for the full 2 hours for over 2 months, I have attempted to use the quiet command for a month, and I have attempted the letting him out of his cage to sleep in the bed with me until breakfast for a month (then he just barks in my ear essentially which is much worse).
I need sleep, I DESPERATELY need sleep. Putting him in my room with me does not work (even in his cage) as he will then start even earlier, hence why he was moved out of the bedroom and to the living room which has shorted the time by an hour.
So, what do I do now? I am not awake enough to be right by him the entirety of the morning as he won't bark if I am in the room sitting by his cage, but he will do a VERY high pitched constant whine (does he not need to take a breath?).
I dont know what else i can do, and i need those 2 more hours of sleep (sleeping with ear plugs is not an option as then I wont wake up from my alarms, same for putting in ear plugs when he first wakes me at 5am)
Hello Kristie, For the morning wake ups, I recommend the following. First, work on teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. Since it sounds like pup already knows this command, you can skip this step if you have already taught this similarly to the article below. If not, give pup a refresh with the Quiet method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, during the day practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As he improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating him during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. If you are home during the day, have lots of 30 minute - 1 hour long sessions with breaks between to practice this, to help pup learn sooner. Since pup is already crate trained by the sound of it, I expect you will progress to an hour plus pretty quickly. This is just to set the foundation for what you will do in the morning, so pup will understand the rules at that point. Whenever he cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet". If he gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if he stays quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. When he cries at night or early morning, if it's been at least 7 hours since he last went potty, take him potty on leash first, and keep the trip super boring - no treats, no play, no breakfast, and little talk. After you take pup potty and return them to the crate, or if pup cries before 7 hours (so you know it's not a potty issue), go right to tell him Quiet, and correct with the pet convincer if he doesn't become quiet and stay quiet. Don't give treats at night/morning though - practice during the day proactively to help pup learn that quiet is good, and just correct in early morning since you don't want to encourage pup to stay awake in the early morning, but to go back to sleep instead. Pup's internal clock will probably need a few days to reset and not wake up for breakfast that early. That is normal. Stay consistent with calm corrections, and proactive daytime practice. For the outside barking, I suggest one of two things. You can either work on desensitizing pup to what they tend to bark at to condition quietness, by being out there with pup, commanding Quiet whenever they see something they tend to bark at before they bark, then rewarding all quietness after that. This will need to be practiced often to create a habit of not barking anymore and change pup's emotional response to the things he is barking at currently. As pup improves, you will increase your distance from pup so that you are giving the command from further away from pup when you see something, and begin to not say anything when a trigger pup used to bark at appears, but simply reward pup when he chooses on his own not to bark at it. Practice this until you are all the way back inside and pup is staying quiet while outside on their own. Periodically you will probably have to have some practice sessions with pup again to maintain the quietness long term. The second option is doing the above desensitization with rewards, but if pup struggles with the above training, you may also need an interrupter that pup associates with being corrected for disobeying your Quiet command, to use when pup barks anyway. A remote training collar on vibration, tone, or stimulation, or a bark collar are the most common options for this. You will need to still practice rewarding pup for the quietness and using the Quiet command to preempt pup's barking, gradually adding in the distance as pup improves to ensure longer term results though. Many times a bark collar when used by itself without also rewarding the quietness only works for a while because it doesn't change pup's emotional response to the things they are barking at, so combining the rewards with it is also important. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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