You’ve sat down with the friend you haven’t seen in months, coffee in hand and gossip being exchanged. Your needs canine pal isn’t so pleased that Susan’s getting all the attention, though. He keeps barking, putting a damper on this relaxing catch-up. You’ve tried sending him out of the room but then he just barks from outside. You spend most of the day with him, don’t you deserve a little break every once in a while?
It’s exactly the same when you settle down for this week's episode of your favorite show. You can’t even hear the dialogue over the sound of constant barking. If you could get a handle on this attention seeking behavior, you could enjoy a few moments to yourself without having clinger level 100 barking in your ear.
Training your dog not to bark for attention is, thankfully, not too complicated. The biggest hurdle is showing him that attention-seeking barking won’t give him what he wants. You need to break that cycle of behavior, which will take resilience. You’ll also need to use obedience commands so you can instruct him to stop barking with ease. If he’s a puppy and this attention seeking behavior is relatively new, then training it out of him may take just a week or so. If this behavior has been years in the making, then you may need up to three weeks before you finally get peace and quiet.
Succeed with this new regime and you’ll never have to worry about having friends and family over again. You’ll be able to enjoy just their company for a change. You may also find you can instruct your dog to stop barking in a range of other situations too.
Before work begins, you’ll need a few bits. His favorite food or treats will play an essential role in training, so stock up! You’ll also need time each day to commit to training during times that trigger his attention-seeking barking.
A quiet room, free from distractions, will also be needed for obedience training. For one of the methods, invest in a citronella or water spraying remote-controlled collar. They can be bought from a variety of stores.
Apart from that, just bring patience and a positive mental attitude and you’re good to get to work!
Dory is a quiet dog most of the time. I am an artist working from home and at least once a day she will just start barking at me for attention. I have tired walking away but she will follow me and gently nip my leg. I have tired calm voice commands e.g “quiet” but nothing appears to stop her until I pick her up or distract her with a toy, but I am worried I am teaching her to bark for my attention please help.
Hello Gemma, To get Dory to stop barking at you for attention first create a confined, safe area in another room, where she cannot see you. You can use an exercise pen for this, or a bathroom with the trash can and bath mats taken up and a baby gate across the doorway, or another small and safe area that she cannot escape from. Whenever she begins to bark at your for attention, calmly take her into that confined area, without speaking to her, and leave her in there until she has been quiet for at least five minutes. Also prevent the barking episodes by taking breaks when you are able, to before she gets too restless, and play with her, train her, or exercise her during those breaks. While you are busy working give her something to entertain herself with, such as a Kong toy stuffed with her dog food and a bit of peanut butter, or a dog puzzle toy filled with dry dog food, or a wobble toy that she has to push around to get food out of, Kong brand makes one. You can feed her entire food for the day in these types of toys if you would like to. Simply measure out her food for the day and fill all of the different toys with her dog food. This will give her a job to do too while you work. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello, I found this website so helpful for our family being a new dog owner.
Our Dory is doing so well, we are very happy with her progress. There are still small things we would like to sort out and would appreciate any professional advise.
We recently changed her lead and harness from a retractable lead to a standard length (it has a bit of bounce) she walks well.
But when we walk as a family (five of us) if a child walks away or someone is slow she starts to whine (she sounds very frantic) and pulls back or front. We try to ignore it and continue.
But how can I help curb this behaviour.
Hello Gemma, I am so glad that you have found the website helpful. Congratulations on your dog and the progress that you have made! When Dory is walking with the entire family, the family itself is a form of distraction, even more so than most distractions that you pass, and just like any other training, you have to practice and work up to a dog being able to do a command in the presence of distractions. It might not be ideal, but the answer is to practice your heel work during the walk, while other family members are present. To help this go faster you can try to go on extra walks that everyone expects to just be training walks. Whenever she begins to move her head past your leg at all, turn directly in front of her at a ninety degree angle, so that she has to slow down and adjust her walking to stay with you and not run into your leg. Whenever she lags behind you, go faster and hurry her up. Act excited to get her to focus back on you, and to keep her moving. Change directions frequently when she gets too distracted by one of the kids, so that she has to pay attention to you again in order to keep up. Also bring treats in a Zip-Lock bag in your pocket, and when she is looking at you and walking right beside you, instead of focusing on other things like your kids, praise her and reach down to give her a treat while you are walking. The more you practice teaching her to walk in the heel position beside you while walking with your family, the better she should get, so that walks will eventually be easy with her. The inconvenience of practicing on walks now with her can make walks for the rest of her life with everyone easier. Another option is to purchase a training device such as an gentle leader, or front clip harness, designed to help with the pulling. The harness or gentle leader itself will not train her, she will still need you to work on the training while walking with your family without the harness or gentle leader at other times, but during walks when you cannot train her, you can use the device to prevent her from pulling and developing worse habits. Doing that will give you options for each walk. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I am training two dogs at the same time. They do well separately but the minute they are together they do not listen to anything unless I say treat. I learned after the fact that I should not have resued litter mates but the damage is done.
Hello Norma, Unfortunately another dog is a huge distraction, so it is not unusual for the puppies to only listen when separate. To help them learn, work on training both puppies separately every day, even fifteen minute training sessions every day for each puppy will help. Practice the commands that each puppy knows around distractions such as people, other dogs, smells, sights, and other animals, in addition to teaching new commands during the sessions. If you can recruit another person to help you, then have training sessions with both puppies together as often as you can as well. Have one person focus on one puppy at a time. Doing this should help the puppies to learn to listen when the distraction of the other puppy is there. You can also work on training the two puppies together on you own, but everything that you work on during those training sessions needs to be easier versions of everything that the puppies already know, since it will be harder for the puppies to focus around each other. Practice new commands and harder versions of the commands that they already know during individual training sessions, with just one puppy at a time, and practice commands that the puppies have already learned separately during training sessions with both puppies there also. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I realize she is young, however we want to deal with any bad habits early on. Ember has started to bark for attention, or to get in the house, and when I took her to work with me, she would bark to get my attention or the receptionists attention when we took our eyes off her. I've read where you used the "quiet" option, but the trick is, she only barks once, and then she's quiet. She doesn't bark incessantly, where I could ignore her. We are a chiropractic and massage clinic, so no barking is welcome. We are giving her attention when she barks though by telling her "no barking" and it seems that's enough for her until we turn our attention away again. Then she will let out another bark. I hope this is making sense. Our previous dog barked so much, all the time, that we are very sensitive to not wanting her to even think about barking. Thank you. I hope we can do a good job training our precious puppy.
Hello Serene, The first step will be to teach her the "Quiet" command if you can get her to bark on demand at other times. Good ways to trigger her barking are by ringing the door or playing recordings of other dogs or sirens. Once she understands the meaning of that command, then practice telling her "Quiet" and then ignoring her to trigger the attention seeking barking again. When she barks again, even if it has been several minutes, then discipline her. A remote controlled vibration collar or something gentle but a bit startling or unpleasant is the type of thing you should look for. You can also discipline with something called a pet convincer, which is simply a small can of pressurized air that you blow on her side, not face, when you tell her "Ah Ah" when she barks. The remote vibration collar is not associated with you though. She is more likely to think that it is related to her barking and that removes the negative attention from the correction also. The reason for teaching her "Quiet" first is so that you can tell her that command the first time that she barks so that when you correct her five or ten minutes later for barking again for attention, the correction is for disobedience, and it is easier for her to understand what she did wrong and what she is supposed to be doing. If she does not bark again a few minutes later when you go back to ignoring her, then you can skip the initial "Quiet" command and instead simply correct her the first time that she barks. You want your correction to surprise her a bit and be slightly unpleasant but not be overly harsh or scary at her age. Also, work on calm duration commands like a long Down-Stay or "Place" command in general to teach him to settle down better. Here is a link to an article on how to teach the "Quiet" command. Follow the "Quiet" method from that article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello I found this website very helpful before so I wanted to ask again! Dory responded very well 4 months ago and after being crated when she barked. After so many days it eased. We had her spayed 3 weeks ago and 14 days after her recovery the barking for attention has started again and she growls (wagging tail and no teeth showing) when I go to place her in her crate she runs away. She is selective when she wants to sit on command too but I know she knows what I am asking of her! Is this dog adolescents? Will she grow out of this behaviour? Do I just continue the training I was doing before? Am I doing anything wrong? She is a wonderful dog otherwise lol. Thank you
Hello Gemma, So glad you found the website helpful last time. First, make sure that she is not experiencing discomfort from being moved when you try to put her in her crate. If she growls when you touch her or push on her in a particular area, then she needs to be check out by your vet to make sure that she healed from her surgery alright. If she is alright physically and does not seem sore, then her recent behavior might be due to how she was handled while at the vet or after she got home. If she associates the crate with her bad experience for some reason, then she would likely act afraid and protest the crate. Be consistent and insist calmly but firmly that she obeys your commands, but focus proactively on getting her over her potential fear of the crate again. Go back to the basics of crate training and make the crate a really rewarding location. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow all of the methods. Especially placing a food stuffed Kong and treats in the crate with her when you put her inside so that she will look forward to being in there more. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate If she seems to protest all touch but is not in pain anymore, then she might be afraid of being handled because it caused her pain after her surgery. Work on handling exercises with her. At every meal you can feed her her dinner one piece at a time. Gently touch an area of her body while you give her a treat. Touch an ear and give a treat. Touch her paw and giver her a treat. Touch her tail and give her a treat. Touch her belly and give her a treat. Lift her up a bit and give her three treats. Repeat this will her whole body as often as you can for a couple of months, until she loves being touched everywhere again. Be extra gentle and spend extra time touching areas that she seems to dislike. When you command her to sit and she disobeys, then place the fingers of one of your hands on either side of the base of her tail, where her tail connects to her bottom and back. Cup your other hand underneath her chin, and gently but firmly press your fingers into the muscle on either side of the base of her tail while you carefully lift her chin up. This should cause her to sit in order to get away from your fingers and hand. If she sits on her own, then reward her with life rewards such as a walk, a pet, her dinner, a ball toss, or something else that she likes. If she will not sit, then follow through on your command by gently coercing her into the position with your hands. If you feel like she is struggling with respect for you in general, then check out this article below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you If all of this behavior is very unusual and new for her after being spayed, then visit your vet and make sure that she is not in pain or having hormonal issues. Those things could cause her to feel bad and act grumpy. If it is not unusual, then it is likely age related or experience related and it is time to work on enforcing her commands, practicing around distractions, and rebuilding trust of touch and the crate. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello Thank you for your reply! No sorry I think I wasn’t clear! She is not in any pain, and likes her crate. But when she barks for attention she does not want to go in the crate willingly as excited! So I put her in there is that the wrong way? She had these behaviours before being spayed but she had overcome them. Now at 12 months they have returned. Do I just calmly be firm.
Hello Gemma, Yes, have her go into the crate even if she does not want to. When you put her in there put a Kong stuffed with food in there with her to help her learn to like her crate again, but put her in even if she does not walk in willingly. Since she is resisting you in some other areas too, she is likely just testing out the waters to see if you really mean what you say, so when you tell her to do something have her do it. If she is hard to catch or acting aggressive, then keep a drag leash on her, without a handle so that it will not snag on things, while you are home to supervise for right now. When it's time to go into the crate calmly go over to her and step on the end of the leash and pick it up, then quickly lead her over to the crate so that she does not have time to protest or stop. Use her forward momentum to move her into the crate with the leash without pausing. Tell her "Crate", "Room", or some other word that means go into your crate while she is going inside. When she turns around, take off her leash, give her the food stuffed Kong, and close the door. Ignore her protests. When you let her out of the crate, open the door a bit and if she tries to rush out close it again. Repeat this until you can open the door all the way and she will stay inside. When she is waiting for permission to leave and looking to you for direction, then tell her "Okay" and let her out. By doing that you are adding more boundaries so that she will learn that when it's time to go in the crate and stay in the crate she needs to listen, even without being forced and even when the door is open! Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog is not letting me sleep at night. She barks for attention. I can't reward train her because she doesn't bark when I'm in the room so there is nothing to "correct". Shes 3 years old and spayed, her mom is a yellow lab, dad is a complete mutt. He looks chow and produces rottie patterned babies. She plays and runs and wrestles in the yard with my other dog before bed. Shes watered, fed, and sent to potty. She doesnt play with toys/chews because she eats them. And if she can't eat them shes not interested in them at all. She has to sleep in a crate because she is extremely destructive and will eat the walls and floor. She sleeps in a separate room because I'm a light sleeper and cant deal with the shuffling of having her in my room. We have tried having her in the same room and different rooms than the other dog, who is also crated for anxiety. She socializes with us all day but as soon as we lock her up for the night she barks. Non-stop for hours and hours. She paces her self. 1 quick bark every 5 seconds so she never gets tired. I'm losing my mind. She doesn't care about the sound boxes. She doesnt care about being shot with water. What do I do?
Hello Sadie, First, teach Rose the "Quiet" command using the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once she understands what the word means and can stop barking while outside of the crate at other times, then check out Jeff Gelhman's Separation Anxiety protocol from the link below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk When you put your dog into the crate tell her "Quiet" and then follow Jeff's protocol from the video when she starts to bark. Jeff's protocol will involve correction but the point of it is to communicate to the dog and interrupt the anxious state of mind. It is done in a fair and well communicated way. Jeff can sound a little harsh and blunt on his videos but his training is very effective for anxious, rude, or demanding dogs. His type of training is not necessary for all dogs but dogs who are being demanding, struggling to be alone, have anxiety, or are generally just rude tend to need more structure and firmness, at least for a while, and he does train with structure and fair firmness. The video is a bit long but watch the whole thing. A text summary of the video to go back to for reference can be found here: https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2013/02/21/separation-anxiety-im-not-seeing-it-at-my-place Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Although he is fine when when left in the house usually with a stuffed Kong he barks when left in the car initially but is quiet when we return even though he still gets a chew stick.Also when we try to take him to a public place ie the pub or public transport he is the same gets bored and barks so we tend to avoid taking him to public places but really would like to take him sometimes.
How can we rectify this situation without anoying other people?
Hello Marene, Because the car issue is happening when you are gone, you will need something that can correct him from a distance. First, spend time teaching him the "Quiet" command by using the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once he can respond to your "Quiet" command consistently at home when you knock or do other things to encourage him to bark, then take him to public places where he will not be too much of a nuisance but will still bark, like the park. Practice the "Quiet" command there. If he obeys, then reward him. Also reward him for staying quiet for five to ten minutes. If he disobeys, then correct him with an air canister, called a "Pet Convincer", aimed at his side, not his face. Tell him "Ah Ah" and release one quick puff of air toward his side to surprise him. When he gets quiet again and stays quiet for at least three to five minutes, then reward his quiet behavior with a treat so that he will learn that quietness is rewarded, and barking is corrected. Practice this until he will be quiet while with you in public. As he improves, then gradually increase how long you expect him to be quiet for before you give him a treat. A Pet Convincer is simply a small pressured canister of air that can be purchased online, on places like Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/PRO-EQUIPMENT-Pet-Convincer-Training/dp/B00JL16HSS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1537746151&sr=1-3&keywords=pet+convincer When Sid is in the car alone, has learned the meaning of the "Quiet" command, and has learned to be quiet while with you out in public, then leave him alone in the car while it is cool outside with the windows cracked enough for you to reach inside but not for him to be able to get his head out. Command him to be "Quiet" when you leave. Hide somewhere very close-by, like behind a tree in front of the car. Wait until he barks, and when he does tell him "Ah Ah" loudly enough for him to hear you from where you are. If he barks again, then repeat your "Ah-Ah" correction and go over to the car, reach inside, and correct him with a puff of air. You can also purchase an automatic air dispensing collar that will correct him for you when he barks. Do NOT purchase the citronella one, or if you do buy the unscented air replacements and switch out the unscented air. Use only unscented air for this. The citronella is very strong for a dog's sensitive sense of smell and can linger for a very long time for a dog and continue to correct him long after he stops the behavior. When he barks, the collar will automatically correct him or you can purchase one that is controlled with a handheld remote and you can correct him manually. If you are using an automatic one or remote one, then do not return to the car when he barks, but watch him from somewhere hidden to see how he is responding at first. When he becomes quiet and stays quiet for at least five minutes, then return to the car window and pass him treats through the cracked window, remind him to be "Quiet", and walk away again. Practice all of this until he no longer barks when you get out of sight or stay gone, but instead learns to settle down in the car and chew on the chew toy that you gave him or quietly watch out the window. If your dog is remote collar trained with a high quality e-collar, then you can also use the e-collar at his "working level" to correct his barking in place of the air collar and pet corrector, but teach your dog the "Quiet" command first so that he will understand why he is being corrected. Also, be sure to reward his quietness because that will lead to long term results better than corrections alone. Only use an e-collar if you have been properly trained how to use, fit, and train with one. Do not simply go out and purchase a cheap one and start using it. E-collars can be dangerous if used wrong or cheap brands are used. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello. We recently adopted from an amazing breeder our first rottweiler puppy. She is very smart and very affectionate. We socialize her a lot and she does very well with other dogs and people. She’s confident and we’ve seen a lot of progress in the past 6 weeks. However she’s very clingy. We don’t mind her being close to us but it causes problems when we want to enter another room she’s not allowed in (our bedroom) she will bark and scratch at the door. We have crate trained her and she does good however when we put her in during dinner time for example she started to bark (she would sofly whine before) and will bark pretty much whenever she wants our attention. We are very aware of trying to ignore her but we live in a town house and have neighbors who can definitely hear her and we are scared to bother them so we give in more easily. She also howls when we leave her in her crate and leave the house. She doesn’t try to escape her crate or destroy anything but she’s vocal. We’re not sure if it’s separation anxiety or boredom/attention seeking behavior. We need help! We are also going through the teething phase so we need all the advice we can get. Many thanks!
Hello Lisanne, If you were able to let her bark and remove all attention, then the attention seeking barking might resolve itself, but since you are in a townhouse, I highly recommend correcting the barking. Doing this correctly in combination with something else I will explain should also help with the howling. First, teach her the meaning of "Quiet" by following the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, once she understands what "Quiet" means, then purchase a "Pet Convincer" which is a small canister of pressurized air. When you leave her alone, tell her "Quiet". If he stays quiet for five minutes while you are in the other room, then return to her and drop a couple of treats into the crate, then leave again. Repeat this for thirty-minutes before letting her out of the crate while she is being quiet. When she can handle that, then give the treats less often, every ten-minutes, then every fifteen, every twenty, every thirty-minutes, ect... If she barks when you leave, even after being told "Quiet", then return to her, calmly but firmly tell her "Ah Ah" and spray a puff of air from the Pet Convincer at her side through the crate or baby gate, then tell her "Quiet" again to remind her, and leave again. If she stays quiet for five minutes after you leave, then you can go back and reward her with treats for staying quiet. When you leave her alone in general, give her a food-stuffed hollow chew-toy. She needs something to do while in the crate - especially at this age. You can stuff a large hollow classic Kong toy by putting her dry dog food into a bowl, covering the food with water, letting it sit out until the food turns to mush, then mix a bit of liver paste or peanut butter (NO Xylitol sweetener - it's toxic) into the food mush. Loosely stuff the Kong toy with the mixture, then either give it to her like that or put it into the freezer overnight so that it will help with teething and last longer...If you freeze them, then you can buy several toys, stuff them all at once and freeze them all - so that you can simply grab one from the freezer as needed. Once she gets out of the habit of barking or howling when you are home and is being given something interesting to do in the crate (the stuffed Kong), she will hopefully learn to self-sooth and self-entertain better and will not howl when you are gone. If the howling continues, then you will need to take the training a step further and correct her remotely while watching her on a camera from outside (so that she thinks you have left). You can correct her remotely with a vibration collar, a stimulation collar, an unscented air spray collar (do NOT use citronella or a scented one), or you can use a regular bark collar (preferable with lower level stimulations at this age). A stimulation collar (aka: e-collar/ electric collar/remote training collar) that also has a vibration setting will actually be one of the least unpleasant things to use if you get a good one with at least sixty-levels so that you can correct on the lowest level that she will respond to or on vibration (some dogs consider vibration more of a punishment though because it's a stronger sensation even though it does not hurt at all - so a collar with both will let you see what works best for her). If you end up needing to do this I suggest hiring a trainer to help you in person, or at least hiring someone who can walk you through it while you are doing it - over the phone. You do not want to correct too high, and you want the timing to be right, so that she learns instead of gets upset or frustrated. If done right, it can actually help her not to get into such an anxious state and you can use that calmer window combined with rewards for her calmness, and a Kong to chew on, to teach her how to cope with being alone. Correcting remotely just needs to be done carefully though. Teaching her a "Place" command and working on a "Down-Stay" from a distance are also good exercises for her to practice. Any obedience commands that require her to obey and be further away from you can help with her independence. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog will not stop barking for attention. He cries and shoves his nose into when I'm eating and he is currently outside my bedroom door barking. I sat down to eat and he started. i put him in the time out corner and made him lay down and stay for 5 minutes about 3 times. The last 2-3 times I increased it to 10 minutes each. He persisted despite rewards when he lay down and was quiet. I rewarded him with treats and a toy. He went for two walks that totaled to over an hour plus play time and training today. He has been fed and watered. My last resort for ignoring is locking myself in my room to ignore him until he stops barking and lays down to occupy himself. He has quieted down since I have been in my room. He does not stop crying and having tantrums in his crate. He has anxiety and I have been working almost every single day in some form or another practicing stay and leaving the room at varying increments and rewarding him after that time if he stayed in his crate with the door open or if he lays down and doesn't cry in that period. I bring him to a park a few times a week that is fenced in. One is a dog park I try to get to every week or two and the other is a fenced in playground.
Hello Lauren, It doesn't sound like exercise is his issue. He needs boundaries and structure, and the barking should be carefully disciplined at this point. I suggest finding a trainer who uses both positive reinforcement and fair corrections and is very experienced with e-collars to help you. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training. He has several videos about giving your dog structure and boundaries, working their minds, correcting barking, and even dealing with separation anxiety. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd0N6fdAoD0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ka2x-yMSzM&t=31s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog has been getting better at doing the "bed" command. I used the leash to hold him at his bed (it has enough slack to extend 3 feet off the blanket i used for him).
During mealtime, I have a camera directed towards him and I view him from my phone. When I see him get off, I tell him "bed" (from the kitchen where he cannot see us), and if he doesn't listen, I walk out to where he sees me.
Sometimes he would just stare at me and not walk to his bed until I walk a few steps closer.
I use the leash and the blanket (the bed) at the same time, since the main purpose of the blanket is for him to stay when we're cooking or eating.
He started barking from his bed, although he does stay on the bed, laying down, looking here and there. The only thing discouraging him from getting up is the leash attached to him. (I put the other end of the leash under a bookshelf.)
I try telling him "quiet", but apparently he doesn't care; he thinks obeying the "bed" command is enough for him.
In the morning, he always barks from his crate. Should I train him out of it, or no? There are two things:
If I don't train him to not bark in the morning, if we forget to take him out to potty, it would remind us.
We rarely forget to take him out in the morning.
If we DO train him out, if this is true, he might potty in the crate instead of asking us to let him out.
We still like to train him out of barking in the morning, and if possible, teach him a way to ask to go out without barking when he is in the crate?
Hello Kien, Glad to hear that you are making progress. You can teach a "Quiet" command and use that for the barking just when you want him to stop. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Quiet" method for how to teach Quiet. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark After he knows what Quiet means, then you can discipline disobedience to your command (opposed to all barking) using a hand help remote training device and collar. I suggest purchasing a collar like Garmin Delta with Bark Limiter or SportDog Yard Trainer or e-collar technologies mini educator. You should only ever use a high quality remote training collar, cheap ones online can be dangerous. Look for a collar like one of those that has multiple stimulation levels and a vibration level. Have him wear the collar around for a few days with it turned off to get him used to the feel and so that he won't learn to only listen if the collar is on. When barks after you have told him "Quiet" you can vibrate the collar while telling him "Ah Ah". If he stops barking great! If not switch to stimulation starting on the lowest level and slowly increase the level until he seems to notice the sensation. The barking may not stop instantly but look for signs that he feels the stimulation like scratching, shaking his head, or moving. Stop at that level, and practice correcting him at that level every time that he barks. After a few corrections he should start to realize that barking gets him in trouble and the barking should decrease a bit then (decreasing overall will take more practice). You can vibrate the collar first each time as a warning to give him the chance to stop barking before the stimulation cuts on. Done this way he will receive the lowest possible correction for him to respond obediently, without rewarding him with attention for barking (because you can enforce you "Quiet" command from the other room once he understands - making the training more effective because right now if he barks he gets your attention). Because you are teaching "Quiet" first he should also learn that the correction is for barking disobediently, and that will give him control of whether or not he is corrected...it's his choice. It will also not discipline him for all barking, just barking after he has already been told "Quiet" and is disobeying the command. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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