You’ve sat down with the friend you haven’t seen in months, coffee in hand and gossip being exchanged. Your needs canine pal isn’t so pleased that Susan’s getting all the attention, though. He keeps barking, putting a damper on this relaxing catch-up. You’ve tried sending him out of the room but then he just barks from outside. You spend most of the day with him, don’t you deserve a little break every once in a while?
It’s exactly the same when you settle down for this week's episode of your favorite show. You can’t even hear the dialogue over the sound of constant barking. If you could get a handle on this attention seeking behavior, you could enjoy a few moments to yourself without having clinger level 100 barking in your ear.
Training your dog not to bark for attention is, thankfully, not too complicated. The biggest hurdle is showing him that attention-seeking barking won’t give him what he wants. You need to break that cycle of behavior, which will take resilience. You’ll also need to use obedience commands so you can instruct him to stop barking with ease. If he’s a puppy and this attention seeking behavior is relatively new, then training it out of him may take just a week or so. If this behavior has been years in the making, then you may need up to three weeks before you finally get peace and quiet.
Succeed with this new regime and you’ll never have to worry about having friends and family over again. You’ll be able to enjoy just their company for a change. You may also find you can instruct your dog to stop barking in a range of other situations too.
Before work begins, you’ll need a few bits. His favorite food or treats will play an essential role in training, so stock up! You’ll also need time each day to commit to training during times that trigger his attention-seeking barking.
A quiet room, free from distractions, will also be needed for obedience training. For one of the methods, invest in a citronella or water spraying remote-controlled collar. They can be bought from a variety of stores.
Apart from that, just bring patience and a positive mental attitude and you’re good to get to work!
Barking at me for attention. If I ignore him he nips at my legs. I have tried ignoring him and then rewarding him when he is quite. How long do wait in between the barking and the quiet?
Hello Heidi, I suggest teaching an Out command for this behavior and making him leave the room when he is being pushy. When you do this, if he disobeys your Out command, follow the section on how to use out for pushy behavior from the article linked below. When you first do this he will probably try harder to get your attention. Imagine yourself as a brick wall or drill sergeant - be firm, unwavering, but very, very calm. Repeat walking toward him firmly but calmly until he backs out of the area and stands two feet away from you. It's okay if you have to move him with your legs if he doesn't get out of the way, just don't step on his paws. If he doesn't give you two feet or darts back in, repeat walking toward him firmly. At first he will probably get more excited but after a few repetitions he should start to decide that this isn't fun anymore and calm down, then calm down quicker in the future, until he only needs to be told Out to leave. Also, when he gets super ramped up he may actually need some quiet time. Many young puppies get more and more wound up when they are timid or overstimulated - and benefit from being put in a crate with a food stuffed chew toy to calm back down and take a nap if needed. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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He chews the lesh
Hello Aboy, First, you can spray the bottom of the leash with something that tastes bad like white vinegar or bitter apple - test on a small spot first and don't use on leather leashes. Second, when you practice heeling with puppy, work on changing your speed and adding in lots of turns and acting really upbeat. Keeping pup focused on the task and rewarding pup with treats for staying in place and paying attention to you, can help pup focus more on heeling and less on chewing during the walk. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Puppy Class videos: Week 1, pt 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnhJGU2NO5k Week 1, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-1-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 2, pt 1 https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-2-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 2, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-2-part-2-home-jasper-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 3, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-3-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 3, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-3-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 4, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-4-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 4, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-4-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 5, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-5-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 5, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-5-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 6, pt 1: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-6-part-1-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1 Week 6, pt 2: https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/week-6-part-2-sirius-berkeley-puppy-1-0 Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Dory is a quiet dog most of the time. I am an artist working from home and at least once a day she will just start barking at me for attention. I have tired walking away but she will follow me and gently nip my leg. I have tired calm voice commands e.g “quiet” but nothing appears to stop her until I pick her up or distract her with a toy, but I am worried I am teaching her to bark for my attention please help.
Hello Gemma, To get Dory to stop barking at you for attention first create a confined, safe area in another room, where she cannot see you. You can use an exercise pen for this, or a bathroom with the trash can and bath mats taken up and a baby gate across the doorway, or another small and safe area that she cannot escape from. Whenever she begins to bark at your for attention, calmly take her into that confined area, without speaking to her, and leave her in there until she has been quiet for at least five minutes. Also prevent the barking episodes by taking breaks when you are able, to before she gets too restless, and play with her, train her, or exercise her during those breaks. While you are busy working give her something to entertain herself with, such as a Kong toy stuffed with her dog food and a bit of peanut butter, or a dog puzzle toy filled with dry dog food, or a wobble toy that she has to push around to get food out of, Kong brand makes one. You can feed her entire food for the day in these types of toys if you would like to. Simply measure out her food for the day and fill all of the different toys with her dog food. This will give her a job to do too while you work. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello, I found this website so helpful for our family being a new dog owner.
Our Dory is doing so well, we are very happy with her progress. There are still small things we would like to sort out and would appreciate any professional advise.
We recently changed her lead and harness from a retractable lead to a standard length (it has a bit of bounce) she walks well.
But when we walk as a family (five of us) if a child walks away or someone is slow she starts to whine (she sounds very frantic) and pulls back or front. We try to ignore it and continue.
But how can I help curb this behaviour.
Hello Gemma, I am so glad that you have found the website helpful. Congratulations on your dog and the progress that you have made! When Dory is walking with the entire family, the family itself is a form of distraction, even more so than most distractions that you pass, and just like any other training, you have to practice and work up to a dog being able to do a command in the presence of distractions. It might not be ideal, but the answer is to practice your heel work during the walk, while other family members are present. To help this go faster you can try to go on extra walks that everyone expects to just be training walks. Whenever she begins to move her head past your leg at all, turn directly in front of her at a ninety degree angle, so that she has to slow down and adjust her walking to stay with you and not run into your leg. Whenever she lags behind you, go faster and hurry her up. Act excited to get her to focus back on you, and to keep her moving. Change directions frequently when she gets too distracted by one of the kids, so that she has to pay attention to you again in order to keep up. Also bring treats in a Zip-Lock bag in your pocket, and when she is looking at you and walking right beside you, instead of focusing on other things like your kids, praise her and reach down to give her a treat while you are walking. The more you practice teaching her to walk in the heel position beside you while walking with your family, the better she should get, so that walks will eventually be easy with her. The inconvenience of practicing on walks now with her can make walks for the rest of her life with everyone easier. Another option is to purchase a training device such as an gentle leader, or front clip harness, designed to help with the pulling. The harness or gentle leader itself will not train her, she will still need you to work on the training while walking with your family without the harness or gentle leader at other times, but during walks when you cannot train her, you can use the device to prevent her from pulling and developing worse habits. Doing that will give you options for each walk. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I am training two dogs at the same time. They do well separately but the minute they are together they do not listen to anything unless I say treat. I learned after the fact that I should not have resued litter mates but the damage is done.
Hello Norma, Unfortunately another dog is a huge distraction, so it is not unusual for the puppies to only listen when separate. To help them learn, work on training both puppies separately every day, even fifteen minute training sessions every day for each puppy will help. Practice the commands that each puppy knows around distractions such as people, other dogs, smells, sights, and other animals, in addition to teaching new commands during the sessions. If you can recruit another person to help you, then have training sessions with both puppies together as often as you can as well. Have one person focus on one puppy at a time. Doing this should help the puppies to learn to listen when the distraction of the other puppy is there. You can also work on training the two puppies together on you own, but everything that you work on during those training sessions needs to be easier versions of everything that the puppies already know, since it will be harder for the puppies to focus around each other. Practice new commands and harder versions of the commands that they already know during individual training sessions, with just one puppy at a time, and practice commands that the puppies have already learned separately during training sessions with both puppies there also. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I realize she is young, however we want to deal with any bad habits early on. Ember has started to bark for attention, or to get in the house, and when I took her to work with me, she would bark to get my attention or the receptionists attention when we took our eyes off her. I've read where you used the "quiet" option, but the trick is, she only barks once, and then she's quiet. She doesn't bark incessantly, where I could ignore her. We are a chiropractic and massage clinic, so no barking is welcome. We are giving her attention when she barks though by telling her "no barking" and it seems that's enough for her until we turn our attention away again. Then she will let out another bark. I hope this is making sense. Our previous dog barked so much, all the time, that we are very sensitive to not wanting her to even think about barking. Thank you. I hope we can do a good job training our precious puppy.
Hello Serene, The first step will be to teach her the "Quiet" command if you can get her to bark on demand at other times. Good ways to trigger her barking are by ringing the door or playing recordings of other dogs or sirens. Once she understands the meaning of that command, then practice telling her "Quiet" and then ignoring her to trigger the attention seeking barking again. When she barks again, even if it has been several minutes, then discipline her. A remote controlled vibration collar or something gentle but a bit startling or unpleasant is the type of thing you should look for. You can also discipline with something called a pet convincer, which is simply a small can of pressurized air that you blow on her side, not face, when you tell her "Ah Ah" when she barks. The remote vibration collar is not associated with you though. She is more likely to think that it is related to her barking and that removes the negative attention from the correction also. The reason for teaching her "Quiet" first is so that you can tell her that command the first time that she barks so that when you correct her five or ten minutes later for barking again for attention, the correction is for disobedience, and it is easier for her to understand what she did wrong and what she is supposed to be doing. If she does not bark again a few minutes later when you go back to ignoring her, then you can skip the initial "Quiet" command and instead simply correct her the first time that she barks. You want your correction to surprise her a bit and be slightly unpleasant but not be overly harsh or scary at her age. Also, work on calm duration commands like a long Down-Stay or "Place" command in general to teach him to settle down better. Here is a link to an article on how to teach the "Quiet" command. Follow the "Quiet" method from that article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello I found this website very helpful before so I wanted to ask again! Dory responded very well 4 months ago and after being crated when she barked. After so many days it eased. We had her spayed 3 weeks ago and 14 days after her recovery the barking for attention has started again and she growls (wagging tail and no teeth showing) when I go to place her in her crate she runs away. She is selective when she wants to sit on command too but I know she knows what I am asking of her! Is this dog adolescents? Will she grow out of this behaviour? Do I just continue the training I was doing before? Am I doing anything wrong? She is a wonderful dog otherwise lol. Thank you
Hello Gemma, So glad you found the website helpful last time. First, make sure that she is not experiencing discomfort from being moved when you try to put her in her crate. If she growls when you touch her or push on her in a particular area, then she needs to be check out by your vet to make sure that she healed from her surgery alright. If she is alright physically and does not seem sore, then her recent behavior might be due to how she was handled while at the vet or after she got home. If she associates the crate with her bad experience for some reason, then she would likely act afraid and protest the crate. Be consistent and insist calmly but firmly that she obeys your commands, but focus proactively on getting her over her potential fear of the crate again. Go back to the basics of crate training and make the crate a really rewarding location. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow all of the methods. Especially placing a food stuffed Kong and treats in the crate with her when you put her inside so that she will look forward to being in there more. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate If she seems to protest all touch but is not in pain anymore, then she might be afraid of being handled because it caused her pain after her surgery. Work on handling exercises with her. At every meal you can feed her her dinner one piece at a time. Gently touch an area of her body while you give her a treat. Touch an ear and give a treat. Touch her paw and giver her a treat. Touch her tail and give her a treat. Touch her belly and give her a treat. Lift her up a bit and give her three treats. Repeat this will her whole body as often as you can for a couple of months, until she loves being touched everywhere again. Be extra gentle and spend extra time touching areas that she seems to dislike. When you command her to sit and she disobeys, then place the fingers of one of your hands on either side of the base of her tail, where her tail connects to her bottom and back. Cup your other hand underneath her chin, and gently but firmly press your fingers into the muscle on either side of the base of her tail while you carefully lift her chin up. This should cause her to sit in order to get away from your fingers and hand. If she sits on her own, then reward her with life rewards such as a walk, a pet, her dinner, a ball toss, or something else that she likes. If she will not sit, then follow through on your command by gently coercing her into the position with your hands. If you feel like she is struggling with respect for you in general, then check out this article below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you If all of this behavior is very unusual and new for her after being spayed, then visit your vet and make sure that she is not in pain or having hormonal issues. Those things could cause her to feel bad and act grumpy. If it is not unusual, then it is likely age related or experience related and it is time to work on enforcing her commands, practicing around distractions, and rebuilding trust of touch and the crate. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello Thank you for your reply! No sorry I think I wasn’t clear! She is not in any pain, and likes her crate. But when she barks for attention she does not want to go in the crate willingly as excited! So I put her in there is that the wrong way? She had these behaviours before being spayed but she had overcome them. Now at 12 months they have returned. Do I just calmly be firm.
Hello Gemma, Yes, have her go into the crate even if she does not want to. When you put her in there put a Kong stuffed with food in there with her to help her learn to like her crate again, but put her in even if she does not walk in willingly. Since she is resisting you in some other areas too, she is likely just testing out the waters to see if you really mean what you say, so when you tell her to do something have her do it. If she is hard to catch or acting aggressive, then keep a drag leash on her, without a handle so that it will not snag on things, while you are home to supervise for right now. When it's time to go into the crate calmly go over to her and step on the end of the leash and pick it up, then quickly lead her over to the crate so that she does not have time to protest or stop. Use her forward momentum to move her into the crate with the leash without pausing. Tell her "Crate", "Room", or some other word that means go into your crate while she is going inside. When she turns around, take off her leash, give her the food stuffed Kong, and close the door. Ignore her protests. When you let her out of the crate, open the door a bit and if she tries to rush out close it again. Repeat this until you can open the door all the way and she will stay inside. When she is waiting for permission to leave and looking to you for direction, then tell her "Okay" and let her out. By doing that you are adding more boundaries so that she will learn that when it's time to go in the crate and stay in the crate she needs to listen, even without being forced and even when the door is open! Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog is not letting me sleep at night. She barks for attention. I can't reward train her because she doesn't bark when I'm in the room so there is nothing to "correct". Shes 3 years old and spayed, her mom is a yellow lab, dad is a complete mutt. He looks chow and produces rottie patterned babies. She plays and runs and wrestles in the yard with my other dog before bed. Shes watered, fed, and sent to potty. She doesnt play with toys/chews because she eats them. And if she can't eat them shes not interested in them at all. She has to sleep in a crate because she is extremely destructive and will eat the walls and floor. She sleeps in a separate room because I'm a light sleeper and cant deal with the shuffling of having her in my room. We have tried having her in the same room and different rooms than the other dog, who is also crated for anxiety. She socializes with us all day but as soon as we lock her up for the night she barks. Non-stop for hours and hours. She paces her self. 1 quick bark every 5 seconds so she never gets tired. I'm losing my mind. She doesn't care about the sound boxes. She doesnt care about being shot with water. What do I do?
Hello Sadie, First, teach Rose the "Quiet" command using the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once she understands what the word means and can stop barking while outside of the crate at other times, then check out Jeff Gelhman's Separation Anxiety protocol from the link below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk When you put your dog into the crate tell her "Quiet" and then follow Jeff's protocol from the video when she starts to bark. Jeff's protocol will involve correction but the point of it is to communicate to the dog and interrupt the anxious state of mind. It is done in a fair and well communicated way. Jeff can sound a little harsh and blunt on his videos but his training is very effective for anxious, rude, or demanding dogs. His type of training is not necessary for all dogs but dogs who are being demanding, struggling to be alone, have anxiety, or are generally just rude tend to need more structure and firmness, at least for a while, and he does train with structure and fair firmness. The video is a bit long but watch the whole thing. A text summary of the video to go back to for reference can be found here: https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2013/02/21/separation-anxiety-im-not-seeing-it-at-my-place Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Although he is fine when when left in the house usually with a stuffed Kong he barks when left in the car initially but is quiet when we return even though he still gets a chew stick.Also when we try to take him to a public place ie the pub or public transport he is the same gets bored and barks so we tend to avoid taking him to public places but really would like to take him sometimes.
How can we rectify this situation without anoying other people?
Hello Marene, Because the car issue is happening when you are gone, you will need something that can correct him from a distance. First, spend time teaching him the "Quiet" command by using the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once he can respond to your "Quiet" command consistently at home when you knock or do other things to encourage him to bark, then take him to public places where he will not be too much of a nuisance but will still bark, like the park. Practice the "Quiet" command there. If he obeys, then reward him. Also reward him for staying quiet for five to ten minutes. If he disobeys, then correct him with an air canister, called a "Pet Convincer", aimed at his side, not his face. Tell him "Ah Ah" and release one quick puff of air toward his side to surprise him. When he gets quiet again and stays quiet for at least three to five minutes, then reward his quiet behavior with a treat so that he will learn that quietness is rewarded, and barking is corrected. Practice this until he will be quiet while with you in public. As he improves, then gradually increase how long you expect him to be quiet for before you give him a treat. A Pet Convincer is simply a small pressured canister of air that can be purchased online, on places like Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/PRO-EQUIPMENT-Pet-Convincer-Training/dp/B00JL16HSS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1537746151&sr=1-3&keywords=pet+convincer When Sid is in the car alone, has learned the meaning of the "Quiet" command, and has learned to be quiet while with you out in public, then leave him alone in the car while it is cool outside with the windows cracked enough for you to reach inside but not for him to be able to get his head out. Command him to be "Quiet" when you leave. Hide somewhere very close-by, like behind a tree in front of the car. Wait until he barks, and when he does tell him "Ah Ah" loudly enough for him to hear you from where you are. If he barks again, then repeat your "Ah-Ah" correction and go over to the car, reach inside, and correct him with a puff of air. You can also purchase an automatic air dispensing collar that will correct him for you when he barks. Do NOT purchase the citronella one, or if you do buy the unscented air replacements and switch out the unscented air. Use only unscented air for this. The citronella is very strong for a dog's sensitive sense of smell and can linger for a very long time for a dog and continue to correct him long after he stops the behavior. When he barks, the collar will automatically correct him or you can purchase one that is controlled with a handheld remote and you can correct him manually. If you are using an automatic one or remote one, then do not return to the car when he barks, but watch him from somewhere hidden to see how he is responding at first. When he becomes quiet and stays quiet for at least five minutes, then return to the car window and pass him treats through the cracked window, remind him to be "Quiet", and walk away again. Practice all of this until he no longer barks when you get out of sight or stay gone, but instead learns to settle down in the car and chew on the chew toy that you gave him or quietly watch out the window. If your dog is remote collar trained with a high quality e-collar, then you can also use the e-collar at his "working level" to correct his barking in place of the air collar and pet corrector, but teach your dog the "Quiet" command first so that he will understand why he is being corrected. Also, be sure to reward his quietness because that will lead to long term results better than corrections alone. Only use an e-collar if you have been properly trained how to use, fit, and train with one. Do not simply go out and purchase a cheap one and start using it. E-collars can be dangerous if used wrong or cheap brands are used. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello. We recently adopted from an amazing breeder our first rottweiler puppy. She is very smart and very affectionate. We socialize her a lot and she does very well with other dogs and people. She’s confident and we’ve seen a lot of progress in the past 6 weeks. However she’s very clingy. We don’t mind her being close to us but it causes problems when we want to enter another room she’s not allowed in (our bedroom) she will bark and scratch at the door. We have crate trained her and she does good however when we put her in during dinner time for example she started to bark (she would sofly whine before) and will bark pretty much whenever she wants our attention. We are very aware of trying to ignore her but we live in a town house and have neighbors who can definitely hear her and we are scared to bother them so we give in more easily. She also howls when we leave her in her crate and leave the house. She doesn’t try to escape her crate or destroy anything but she’s vocal. We’re not sure if it’s separation anxiety or boredom/attention seeking behavior. We need help! We are also going through the teething phase so we need all the advice we can get. Many thanks!
Hello Lisanne, If you were able to let her bark and remove all attention, then the attention seeking barking might resolve itself, but since you are in a townhouse, I highly recommend correcting the barking. Doing this correctly in combination with something else I will explain should also help with the howling. First, teach her the meaning of "Quiet" by following the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, once she understands what "Quiet" means, then purchase a "Pet Convincer" which is a small canister of pressurized air. When you leave her alone, tell her "Quiet". If he stays quiet for five minutes while you are in the other room, then return to her and drop a couple of treats into the crate, then leave again. Repeat this for thirty-minutes before letting her out of the crate while she is being quiet. When she can handle that, then give the treats less often, every ten-minutes, then every fifteen, every twenty, every thirty-minutes, ect... If she barks when you leave, even after being told "Quiet", then return to her, calmly but firmly tell her "Ah Ah" and spray a puff of air from the Pet Convincer at her side through the crate or baby gate, then tell her "Quiet" again to remind her, and leave again. If she stays quiet for five minutes after you leave, then you can go back and reward her with treats for staying quiet. When you leave her alone in general, give her a food-stuffed hollow chew-toy. She needs something to do while in the crate - especially at this age. You can stuff a large hollow classic Kong toy by putting her dry dog food into a bowl, covering the food with water, letting it sit out until the food turns to mush, then mix a bit of liver paste or peanut butter (NO Xylitol sweetener - it's toxic) into the food mush. Loosely stuff the Kong toy with the mixture, then either give it to her like that or put it into the freezer overnight so that it will help with teething and last longer...If you freeze them, then you can buy several toys, stuff them all at once and freeze them all - so that you can simply grab one from the freezer as needed. Once she gets out of the habit of barking or howling when you are home and is being given something interesting to do in the crate (the stuffed Kong), she will hopefully learn to self-sooth and self-entertain better and will not howl when you are gone. If the howling continues, then you will need to take the training a step further and correct her remotely while watching her on a camera from outside (so that she thinks you have left). You can correct her remotely with a vibration collar, a stimulation collar, an unscented air spray collar (do NOT use citronella or a scented one), or you can use a regular bark collar (preferable with lower level stimulations at this age). A stimulation collar (aka: e-collar/ electric collar/remote training collar) that also has a vibration setting will actually be one of the least unpleasant things to use if you get a good one with at least sixty-levels so that you can correct on the lowest level that she will respond to or on vibration (some dogs consider vibration more of a punishment though because it's a stronger sensation even though it does not hurt at all - so a collar with both will let you see what works best for her). If you end up needing to do this I suggest hiring a trainer to help you in person, or at least hiring someone who can walk you through it while you are doing it - over the phone. You do not want to correct too high, and you want the timing to be right, so that she learns instead of gets upset or frustrated. If done right, it can actually help her not to get into such an anxious state and you can use that calmer window combined with rewards for her calmness, and a Kong to chew on, to teach her how to cope with being alone. Correcting remotely just needs to be done carefully though. Teaching her a "Place" command and working on a "Down-Stay" from a distance are also good exercises for her to practice. Any obedience commands that require her to obey and be further away from you can help with her independence. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog will not stop barking for attention. He cries and shoves his nose into when I'm eating and he is currently outside my bedroom door barking. I sat down to eat and he started. i put him in the time out corner and made him lay down and stay for 5 minutes about 3 times. The last 2-3 times I increased it to 10 minutes each. He persisted despite rewards when he lay down and was quiet. I rewarded him with treats and a toy. He went for two walks that totaled to over an hour plus play time and training today. He has been fed and watered. My last resort for ignoring is locking myself in my room to ignore him until he stops barking and lays down to occupy himself. He has quieted down since I have been in my room. He does not stop crying and having tantrums in his crate. He has anxiety and I have been working almost every single day in some form or another practicing stay and leaving the room at varying increments and rewarding him after that time if he stayed in his crate with the door open or if he lays down and doesn't cry in that period. I bring him to a park a few times a week that is fenced in. One is a dog park I try to get to every week or two and the other is a fenced in playground.
Hello Lauren, It doesn't sound like exercise is his issue. He needs boundaries and structure, and the barking should be carefully disciplined at this point. I suggest finding a trainer who uses both positive reinforcement and fair corrections and is very experienced with e-collars to help you. Check out Jeff Gellman from SolidK9Training. He has several videos about giving your dog structure and boundaries, working their minds, correcting barking, and even dealing with separation anxiety. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd0N6fdAoD0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ka2x-yMSzM&t=31s Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog has been getting better at doing the "bed" command. I used the leash to hold him at his bed (it has enough slack to extend 3 feet off the blanket i used for him).
During mealtime, I have a camera directed towards him and I view him from my phone. When I see him get off, I tell him "bed" (from the kitchen where he cannot see us), and if he doesn't listen, I walk out to where he sees me.
Sometimes he would just stare at me and not walk to his bed until I walk a few steps closer.
I use the leash and the blanket (the bed) at the same time, since the main purpose of the blanket is for him to stay when we're cooking or eating.
He started barking from his bed, although he does stay on the bed, laying down, looking here and there. The only thing discouraging him from getting up is the leash attached to him. (I put the other end of the leash under a bookshelf.)
I try telling him "quiet", but apparently he doesn't care; he thinks obeying the "bed" command is enough for him.
In the morning, he always barks from his crate. Should I train him out of it, or no? There are two things:
If I don't train him to not bark in the morning, if we forget to take him out to potty, it would remind us.
We rarely forget to take him out in the morning.
If we DO train him out, if this is true, he might potty in the crate instead of asking us to let him out.
We still like to train him out of barking in the morning, and if possible, teach him a way to ask to go out without barking when he is in the crate?
Hello Kien, Glad to hear that you are making progress. You can teach a "Quiet" command and use that for the barking just when you want him to stop. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Quiet" method for how to teach Quiet. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark After he knows what Quiet means, then you can discipline disobedience to your command (opposed to all barking) using a hand help remote training device and collar. I suggest purchasing a collar like Garmin Delta with Bark Limiter or SportDog Yard Trainer or e-collar technologies mini educator. You should only ever use a high quality remote training collar, cheap ones online can be dangerous. Look for a collar like one of those that has multiple stimulation levels and a vibration level. Have him wear the collar around for a few days with it turned off to get him used to the feel and so that he won't learn to only listen if the collar is on. When barks after you have told him "Quiet" you can vibrate the collar while telling him "Ah Ah". If he stops barking great! If not switch to stimulation starting on the lowest level and slowly increase the level until he seems to notice the sensation. The barking may not stop instantly but look for signs that he feels the stimulation like scratching, shaking his head, or moving. Stop at that level, and practice correcting him at that level every time that he barks. After a few corrections he should start to realize that barking gets him in trouble and the barking should decrease a bit then (decreasing overall will take more practice). You can vibrate the collar first each time as a warning to give him the chance to stop barking before the stimulation cuts on. Done this way he will receive the lowest possible correction for him to respond obediently, without rewarding him with attention for barking (because you can enforce you "Quiet" command from the other room once he understands - making the training more effective because right now if he barks he gets your attention). Because you are teaching "Quiet" first he should also learn that the correction is for barking disobediently, and that will give him control of whether or not he is corrected...it's his choice. It will also not discipline him for all barking, just barking after he has already been told "Quiet" and is disobeying the command. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello, we have a 5 month old golden retriever puppy. He is an amazing puppy except that he learned (no idea where) to bark at us in the kitchen. He doesn't do this anywhere else in the house. We have tried to ignore him, take him to his bed, wait until he stops barking reward him for being quiet. We are out of ideas! Help please!
Hello Cooper, I suggest teaching him the Quiet command. After he knows what "Quiet" means, when he stays quiet and doesn't bark at all in the kitchen reward him with a treat placed on the floor in the other room. When he barks tell him "Quiet" and if he continues barking use a Pet Convincer to spray a small puff of air at his side (NOT face) while saying "Ah Ah". Telling him "Ah Ah" at the same time will teach him to listen to that correction even when you do not correct after he learns it. Follow the "Quiet" method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Constant barker, how to train him to stop barking at the doorbell/postman/people outside etc with the clicker method
Hello Patricia, Check out the video below on how to Desensitize a dog to bark triggers. General barking: https://youtu.be/Jp_l9C1yT1g Barking at the door: https://youtu.be/DxPrNnulp5s Barking on walks: https://youtu.be/JY7JrteQBOQ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our puppy is mainly an outside dog, he gets plenty of exercise and attention and gets taken to the dog park 3-4 times a week. When we are sitting down for dinner or sitting to watch some tv he sits by the back door barking at us - we have tried ignorning but can bark up to 25 mins (longer if we left him) and are concerned for our neighbours. When we leave the room he will stop but as soon as we walk back in he starts again.. we sometimes yell at him to tell him to stop and he acts scared when we do but continues to bark.
Hello Jordy, First, his need for human interaction and mental stimulation needs to be addressed through regular training sessions or walks where you practice obedience and heel throughout the walk. Dog parks provide physical exercise but the mental stimulation or human interaction enough. Second, I suggest teaching the Quiet command and rewarding him when he becomes quiet or stays quiet for five minutes while you are visible in to him. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Other ideas to trigger barking to teach Speak and Quiet: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-to-speak After you have done the above so he understands what to do and has the ability to do it, you can correct with a remote vibration collar when he disobeys your Quiet command. Only do this in combination with the above training though or it likely just confuse him. He needs to understand what Quiet means, be rewarded for being quiet, then corrected if he is disobedient (which is understandable for him). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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really having problems on recall when other dogs are around does not look at me when callin g him
Hello Stephen, Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. If your dog already understands what Come means (which is the first thing you have to do - teach them that Come means come here), and if your dog can come in calmer locations, then use the Reel In method and go places where there are other dogs walking around (who won't run up to you) like the park, and practice your recall around other dogs. Do not practice at the dog park though because having a dog leashed inside a dog park can lead to stress and fights. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall
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Hi! So my Sadie bug is 5 months ,but will be 6 months in less than a week . I've noticed she picks up commands and potty training well ,but she has this nasty habit of nipping,growling ,barking & scratching at my legs when she has to potty . Ive been trying to figure out how to get her to calmly show me ,but I just don't understand why she gets so loud and aggressive . Besides that ,she's a sweet,timid dog. I'm stumped . Why does she act this way ? ( It's only when she has to potty .)
Hello Samantha, Dogs all come up with their own way of letting you know when they need to go potty. For whatever reason she has learned that doing that gets a response out of you and she doesn't think other things will get the same response. I suggest teaching her to ring a bell instead and making that something rewarding until she has developed a firm habit of doing that whenever she needs to go- then eventually phasing out those treats too when she no longer needs them. Check out the article linked below on teaching a bell. Once she has learned to ring it when you point to the bell, have her ring it when you point to it every time that you take her potty, then reward her with a treat when she goes potty outside after she rang the bell to get out. https://wagwalking.com/training/ring-a-bell-to-go-out Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I know this is an older article but I have had Gus for 6 months now and I have not slept through the night in 6 months!! I love him more than anything and I have tried everything to get the barking to stop. He will literally bark non-stop if I am out of the room and he is in his crate. I have tried the ignoring thing and I am not kidding when I say that he absolutely will not stop. I feel like I can't get anything done because I can't stand to listen to thew barking. He is not to be trusted out loose in the house as he gets into everything and will chew things that don't belong to him. He also still gets me up 2 to 3 times a night. Sometimes he potty's and sometimes he thinks it's play time. He will also bark non stop until I get up, hence the reason I haven't slept good in 6 months. I have tried having him sleep with me but he thinks my bed is a racetrack and will not settle down and go to sleep. I have had to resort to a bark collar and it is the kind that beeps, then vibrates, then a static shock. He knows the pattern by now and he still barks and barks. I don't know what else I can do.... Do you think the quiet method would work for him? I haven't tried that yet however, as soon as I come to the living room where his crate is, he stops barking. He doesn't do the barking while I'm in the room. Any help at this point would be great as I am just so exhausted. Thank you.
Hello Lisa, I suggest using a Pet Convincer (which is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air you can spray - do NOT use citronella - the scent lingers too long, is too harsh, and can be confusing for a dog) in combination with a lot of structure and boundaries during the day to deal with his over all demanding attitude. In general, put him into boot-camp. Make him work for all of his dog food during the day. Use his daily kibble as rewards for his obedience. Teach him Out-which means leave the area, and any time he is nudging you, in your space uninvited, or generally being pushy, tell him out and enforce it. Teach him a Place command and practice him staying on place for up to an hour while you are home - whether you are in the room or not. You want him to learn to stay somewhere because he is choosing to out of obedience and not just because he can't get out - the attitude is different in both cases even though he will obviously still be crated with the door closed at other times. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate Manners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn5HTiryZN8 Work on the crate manners protocol linked above for teaching him how to go in and out of the crate and stay in the crate with the door open until released - similar to Place, he is having to choose to obey which is a good exercise to deal with the attitude. When you walk him, walks should be structured heeling. He should be working during walks by heeling, focusing on you, and stopping and sitting when you stop. Practicing those commands and rules will help him learn the skills he needs to be calm in the crate and stop the demanding attitude. It doesn't sound like he has separation anxiety - it sounds like he is demanding that you free him because he is bored. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo In combination with the exercises mentioned above, teach him what Quiet means. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark When you put him into the crate, tell him Quiet. Put his crate somewhere where you can appear and correct quickly so that your correction is timed more closely to his barking, like against a wall where you can be just around the corner on the other side of that wall and him not see you until you are there to correct or reward - this way he doesn't have the chance to stop his barking much before the correction because he saw you, and the correction happens close to his barking timing-wise. If he barks, calmly walk back into the room, over to his crate, and spray a puff of unscented air from the Pet Convincer at his side through the crate while saying "Ah Ah" calmly (NOT at his face). Repeat your quiet command calmly after correcting, then leave again. If he stays quiet this time, return after five minutes and sprinkle dog food into his crate as a reward, then leave again. Every time he barks, return and correct with the Pet Convincer, and whenever he stays quiet, return and reward. As he improves, wait until he is wait for a longer periods of time before you reward him. Five minutes, then 8 minutes, then 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, then 25 minutes, ect...Until he is quiet the whole time he is crated. Pet Convincer example, can also be purchased other places: https://www.amazon.com/PRO-EQUIPMENT-Pet-Convincer-Training/dp/B00JL16HSS/ref=asc_df_B00JL16HSS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241991316466&hvpos=1o13&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9410007087252192433&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010791&hvtargid=aud-643565131866:pla-402082951148&psc=1 The success of this will depend partially on whether you implement the other training mentioned to address his pushiness and attitude, so don't overlook that part. You may find that the other training helps with listening and other potential behavior problems too as a bonus. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I've worked hard over the years with Buttercup on obedience. She's generally well-behaved and even knows some tricks. But her barking has always been a problem that I've had a lot of trouble training. She barks at the door, and passersby and squirrels out the window, etc. I know Eskies can want to be watch dogs, I accept a certain amount, but I wanted to train her to have something else to do when she's barking, and generally deescalate.
I recently decided to use the Quiet Method, very similar to what's outlined on your site. However, she seems to have learned that if she barks, she will get me to Quiet her, and she gets a treat. Her barking is worse than ever. Now she will ignore the window altogether and simply sit next to me and bark in a very high-pitched, almost conversational way, trying different sounds to get me to Quiet her and reward her. As soon as I do, she starts barking again. This is getting a little crazy and she seems to get very worked up trying to get a treat. What do you suggest to break this accidental habit I created?
Hello Megan, I suggest two things. First, require more before giving her a treat. So say quiet, and wait ten seconds before giving a treat, then require one minute of quiet before a treat, then five minutes of quiet before a treat, then ten minutes before a treat, ect...The goal should be her getting rewarded for STAYING quiet, not just getting quiet once she understands what the Quiet word means - which she does now. Second, correct the barking. It is okay to use a punisher for the demanding barking - that behavior is not fear based or an inability to be quiet - she is being pushy. I suggest purchasing a Pet Convincer - which is a small canister of unscented pressurized air. When she barks, tell her Quiet and WAIT. If she stays quiet for several minutes, you can reward with a treat (require quietness for longer and longer before giving the treat the more you practice this, until you work up to over an hour of quietness before giving a treat). If she barks during the waiting period, spray a small puff of air at her side (not her face) with the pet convincer while calmly saying "Ah Ah" to let her know that behavior was wrong. The spray should surprise her enough to stop the barking and probably make her walk away from you and stop being pushy. When doing it this way she should clearly understand from your Quiet command that she is supposed to be quiet, and the correction is for disobeying a command that she knows - her being demanding, so she has control of whether she is corrected or not because she knows why. After you correct you can remind her to be Quiet again, and reset the time in your head, wait several minutes and if she stays quiet for several minutes this time, reward with a treat - if she barks again during that time, correct again, and repeat the entire process until she leaves you alone or stays quiet near you. Once you have dealt with the barking for treats, then when she barks at the window, tell her Quiet. If she gets quiet and stays quiet, reward after a bit. If she continues barking or stops and starts again right away, correct with the pet convincer. Its very important to correct the barking as soon as it starts because certain chemicals are released in a dog's brain when they bark that further encourages the barking and gets them highly aroused. It is much harder to get a dog to stop and calm back down after they have been barking for a bit than when they first begin. To deal with the over sensitivity to things in the first place, you can begin to reward calmness and quietness around those things BEFORE she barks and gets excited - to condition her to stay in that calmer mindset around those triggers. When she starts to get worked up (even before barking), tell her "Ah Ah" and if that alone isn't effective and calming her back down, give a mild correction to snap her out of her aroused mindset before she starts getting really worked up. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi there, our gorgeous pup has been so well behaved until about 6 weeks ago and now she is driving me crazy late afternoon / evening with attention seeking barking.
I work from home and work upstairs in a little study. For the first couple of months we had quite a nice routine, she would stay in the play pen down stairs and I would go and see her every couple of hours and have a little play then leave her again. We tended to for our walk around 4pm as she slept a lot of the day. Post 4 she was very restless so I brought out kongs, Licki mats etc, things I read so she coold entertain herself while I finished up my work..not all successful.
Then circumstances changed, my husband was redundant for 3 months and so my pup had one or both of us around for a lot of the time and got lots of attention. S We also had a couple of holidays with family and she had company and attention all the time then too.
Now my husband is back at work and its just me and the pup again. I no longer confine her to the kitchen as while my husband was off she was growing up and we felt no longer needed the pen or that restriction. What tends to happen now is she sleeps most of the morning anywhere in the house without a peep (which I know is great) and then at lunch time I go and see her, have a play and take her for her first walk. She then tends to sleep more in the afternoon but by 4.30 she's very much ready for attention. I think that's fair enough after so much sleeping so then I take her for another walk, a bit longer then have a little play. The problem I am having is that it is then expected that i entertain her from that time until about 9pm when she finally settles down. If I sit and try and finish up work she constantly barks at me, if I ignore that she starts ripping at the carpet or biting my chair or doing something destructive! I then stop that but if I ever sit and relax ie watch tv she barks at me again..its constant. I've tried my old tricks such as kongs but she's not that interested.
I know I'm lucky she's good for so much of the day but it's exhausted from 4.30- 9 and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any help really welcomed. Thanks!!!
Hello Laura, First, I would actually switch what you are doing to exercise her at 4 pm (keep the other walks). Instead of spending 30-45 minutes taking her for a walk at that time, I suggest having a training session where she has to really concentrate and use a lot of self-control. Practicing things like "Sit, Down, Stand" over and over, switching up the order so she really has to listen to which one you said (teach all three so she can't just guess). Practice Heel or come in your neighborhood using a long leash - around gradually harder and harder distractions as she improves so it's more difficult. Practice a long Place command around lots of distractions (start easy and work up to distractions). Distractions may start with you walking away, then you dropping objects where she can see, then kids running around, then ringing your doorbell, ect...Teach Quiet and Out during some of the sessions (which also help with the pushiness). It will take time and practice to teach her commands but if you just use the normal walk time to train instead the training should accomplish a few things: 1. Earn more of her respect so that she is less demanding and pushy with you in general. 2. Stimulate her mentally - which has been proven to be twice as tiring for a dog than physical exercise alone, and can have a calming effect...Many dogs fall asleep after a hard training session. 3. Teach behaviors that directly help you deal with the behavior...Quiet, Out, and Place. 4. Improve your relationship with her. 5. Help her develop calmness and impulse control to learn to self-regulate better. Sit: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit Down: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-to-lay-down Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Stand: https://wagwalking.com/training/stand-and-stay Come - The Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Quiet- The Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark The above mental stimulate is what I would ultimately focus on to meet the need for more respect, mental stimulation, and communication. Focus on that as your ultimate, long term goal. For the short term, teach the Quiet command. When he barks, tell him "Quiet" calmly one time. If he continues barking after being told Quiet, spray a small puff of unscented air from a Pet Convincer at his side while saying "Ah Ah" calmly - this is to correct the demanding attitude and surprise him a bit to create quietness. Continue to provide a food stuffed chew toy at that time since he will be more likely to start chewing on that again once calmer again and will need something to do. If he starts to get destructive after doing the above at that point, send him to Place or confine him in the crate or exercise pen. Ultimately if you starting doing a training session at that time (even if you only have 10 minutes) that should help with his pent up energy and frustration that is the real issue. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Rosie has started to bark when put into her crate at bedtime. I have tried the collar on her that makes a noise when she barks does nothing for her. She has a piercing bark that is hard to ignore. I know she is wanting to come upstairs to my bedroom but I don’t want to start that habit. Can you give me some advice.
Hello Ina, If the protests are just her acting demanding, you have two options. You can ignore the crying until she gives up and realizes after a few days that it doesn't get her out of the crate - so she stops, OR you can discipline the crying - at this point I suggest correcting it using fair discipline. To discipline the barking, start by teaching the Quiet command using the Quiet method from the article linked below. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Practice the Quiet command method during the day until she learns the meaning of the word quiet. Since you want her to learn it quickly, I suggest practicing for a few minutes several times per day to speed up learning. Only give treats while practicing this during the day - no treats at night. Once she understands Quiet, if she barks in the crate and it has been less than 8 hours since she last went potty (I am assuming you take her potty right before crating her), then when she cries tell her "Quiet". If she gets quiet - great! Go back to bed, nothing else happens. If she doesn't get quiet or starts barking again right away, calmly say "Ah Ah" and use a small canister of pressurized air, called a Pet Convincer, to spray a quick puff of unscented air (do NOT use citronella) at her side through the crate's wires (avoid spraying her in the face). After spraying her, leave. Repeat the corrections each time she barks until she goes to sleep. This can also be done using a remote training collar with stimulation on a her "working level". I don't recommend sound or citronella. If you decide to use a remote training collar, I suggest hiring a trainer to help you with that, since remote training collars are powerful tools that need to be fitted correctly, set on the right level for YOUR dog, timed well, combined with the right training, and a high quality, safe brand. A Pet Conviner is a simpler tool so that may be easier to try first - just don't use citronella or scented types and avoid her face when you spray it. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our Staffy barks outside downstairs to get my attention. Not so much my husband's attention but mine. She came to us when she was 3 years old, re-homed. We have been using a citronella spray collar but that does not seem to be working with her any more. It's spraying when she's barking and she continues to bark! More recently when she barks I've been directing her into her crate (the one she grew up with as a puppy) and we have 'time out' in the crate. I lure her in there with a treat. She does not incessantly bark and does not bark inside or at night. We walk her twice a day 3 days a week and 1 big walk the other 4 days. We throw balls with her at the end of most days and she has toys and a tug rope. It seems she is obsessed with wanting me to play with her and barks to get my attention. I know Staffy's are high energy, needy and anxious, loveable and loyal. She does test our patience and our neighbours.
What to do??
Hello Josie, Unfortunately because the citronella smell can linger for so long for a dog with a sensitive nose - citronella sprays can actually be very confusing and thus ineffective. They do deter barking at first but the dog is essentially corrected for barking, but since the smell doesn't stop when the dog gets quiet the dog also continues to be corrected for being quiet. When the dog is corrected for barking and for being quiet there is little motivation for the dog to be quiet and not bark. With all that said, I suggest switching to a stimulation based bark collar - a good one is actually more humane than citronella because the correction is instantaneous and stops as soon as the barking stops. You need to teach the dog why they are being corrected first though. Teach the Quiet command from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once pup knows Quiet, practice it in real life scenarios when pup barks at things like walkers, cats, or the doorbell. After a bit of practice, add the bark collar. Have pup wear the bark collar around for a couple of days when you are home with it turned off before training with it on - so that pup won't learn to only be quiet when the collar is on, but will view the collar as a neutral thing. Whenever there is a barking trigger, like the doorbell ringing or a walker that pup spots, tell pup "Quiet", then if pup disobeys and barks they will be corrected automatically with the collar. If pup stays quiet, praise calmly and give a treat. Practice this until pup clearly associates the correction with their barking and not just the people or noise they are barking at or thinking the corrections are random. Its important to include the treats for quiet behavior around the barking triggers also, so that pup sees that doorbells ringing or people passing don't equal corrections only barking at the doorbell or people/cats, ect... Once pup understands that they should be quiet from being rewarded, and not to bark from being corrected, let pup wear the bark collar during times when he tends to bark for your attention. If he barks, the collar should correct him and he should remember the barking lesson and know how to stop the corrections by getting quiet on his own. Along with the barking specific training I highly suggest adding in some mental stimulation through other training practice to build his respect for you, his self-control, and his overall confidence. Exercise is important and needed but it doesn't always equal calm for a dog with a lot of endurance - mental stimulation by way of training slightly challenging things tends to help with respect and calmness more. Bellow are some good commands to practice with pup to help with the overall attitude. I would suggest having short training sessions with pup several times a week, or incorporating commands into pup's day, even if that means only giving one walk and doing one 20 minute training session in place of the second walk. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Working and Consistency methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Leave It method for leave it command: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi! We've been working on helping Poppy with alone time and it's been pretty good. She doesn't bark when we leave the room for extended periods of time, but if we are in the room with her but not giving her attention she barks loud and long! What can we do?
Hello Katie, First, make sure you are never giving her attention for barking (including feeding or petting or throwing a ball while she is still barking - wait for quietness). Instead, wait for her to pause and give attention then. Second, check out the Quiet method from the article linked below and teach the Quiet command. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Finally, at 10 weeks old, know that this takes a bit of practice and some hardcore ignoring. When pup barks at you for attention, ignore or walk out of the room. When pup gets quiet - reward, but very quickly begin only rewarding pup for STAYING quiet, gradually requiring pup to stay quiet for longer and longer before you reward. You want the goal to be pup staying quiet ultimately, not barking and stopping, barking and stopping over and over to get a treat. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Frankie is a lovely dog but can be an absolute nightmare. He constantly barks in the house for hours and hours and I don’t know how to control this. He barks for food when We are eating dinner and constantly barks for attention. He also can snap and bite too. Not aggressive but to get attention. Constantly biting my ankles and shoes / slippers. He’s becoming a nightmare. Please help
Hello Kari, First, I do suggest hiring a professional private trainer - particularly because of the biting issues and overall demanding attitude. For the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - which will be a form of punishment - neither too harsh nor ineffective. An e-collar (such as a stimulation based bark collar) or Pet Convincer are two of the most effective types of interrupter for most dogs. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). Because of his biting, I would actually suggest a bark collar in your case, so that you are not getting close to him to correct him. In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction (or let the automatic bark collar correct). Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward them. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Most bark training only gives part of that equation. Fitting an e-collar - it should be put on while he is calm, just standing around - Ideally have him wear the collar around for a while before starting any training so he won't associate the training with the collar but just with his barking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxB6gYsliI If your bark collar allows you to set the stimulation level manually, find the level to use for him (sometimes you will have to go a level higher during training while the dog is aroused but once he improves you can usually decrease back to his normal level again). Always start at the lowest level and work up, find the correct level while the dog is calmer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM Once pup is calmer in general after the initial bark training, practice exposing him a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever he DOESN'T bark around something that he normally would have, calmly praise and reward him to continue the desensitization process. I suggest working on gently building his respect for you during this time also - this should be done very calmly and consistently. Pittying him or acting angry are not as effective. Calm and confident should be your attitude toward him. Check out the article linked below and follow at least two of the methods found there - especially the Working method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Sophie is FULL OF ENERGY!!!! She receives a lot of playtime and we go on a daily power walk every day weather permitting. Although she does ride in a stroller on this walk but looks so very forward to it everyday. I have tried walking her with her harness/leash but she refuses to go on a walk outside. Now if we are in a store, she will walk the entire time on a leash. But her continuous barking when anyone else is home is getting very annoying! She is doing it for constant attention. She for the most part is really good if only one of us are home. But even if we get on our phone , she starts her barking. As soon as my husband or son her home from work, games on.... its constant barking and biting at ur ankles/feet. She will draw blood at times. When we discipline her she gets in her puppy stance and totally thinks we’re playing. She’s such a sweet baby but this is really starting to cause a problem. We can’t hardly even talk or watch a movie cause she is expecting us to be rough housing or playing with her. I know us yelling at her doesn’t help the situation at all but we get so stressed when she is doing it we end up giving her prov the wrong attention but in her eyes she’s getting the attention so she just continues. We dread the evenings that we should be looking forward to because as soon as we try and sit down after a long day, she’s in our faces barking. Please help!!!
Hello Roxy, For the barking I suggest combining a few things in your case. First, you need a way to communicate with her so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - such as a Pet Convincer. A Pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway, or stop then immediately start, or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing her a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever she DOESN'T bark around something that she normally would have - like a family member calling you on the phone to practice, calmly praise and reward her to continue the desensitization process. Also, teach pup the Leave It and Out and Place commands and calmly enforce those as needed. Be proactive to teach the meaning of the words and practice them in a variety of situations to build her self-control, so that when you do need them, pup has the self-control skills to be able to obey. Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - which means leave the area - pay special attention to the sections on teach Out, and using Out to Deal with Pushy behavior: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place - go to Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Spend time regularly training pup in general, starting with the above commands, but also adding other things after pup knows those or increasing difficultly to keep pup a bit challenged. Regular mental stimulation can help pups feel happy, calmer, and get rid of excess energy, without riling them up during the process. You can even incorporate commands into other activities, like sitting before being leashed, waiting before being fed, Down before throwing a ball, and games like fetch - when combined with training are good too. For the leash walking, first, take some small treats or pup's dog food pieces with you in a small ziplock bag in your pocket. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like Christmas decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they shows around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, such as sore paw pads. If you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured, definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Excessive attention seeking barking
Pooping in the house
Chewing on things he shouldn’t
Inability to crate train-possible anxiety
He’s a good dog and can learn tricks quickly and easily. He just struggles in these areas.
Hello Samantha, First, work on teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Second, during the day practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As he improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating him during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. If you are home during the day, have lots of 30 minute - 1 hour long sessions with breaks between to practice this, to help pup learn sooner. Whenever he cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet". If he gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if he stays quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. When he cries at night (in the crate - where he needs to be sleeping for now) before it has been 6-7 hours (so you know it's not a potty issue), tell him Quiet, and correct with the pet convincer if he doesn't become quiet and stay quiet. Once pup is crate trained, check out the article linked below on chewing - including being able to confine pup in the crate when you aren't there to supervise and train, but when you are there what to teach, like Leave It, too. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-not-to-chew/ Check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below. Make sure that the crate doesn't have anything absorbent in it - including a soft bed or towel. Check out www.primopads.com if you need a non-absorbent bed for him. Make sure the crate is only big enough for him to turn around, lie down and stand up, and not so big that he can potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it. Dogs have a natural desire to keep a confined space clean so it needs to be the right size to encourage that natural desire. Use a cleaner that contains enzymes to clean any previous or current accidents - only enzymes will remove the smell and remaining smells encourage the dog to potty in the same location again later. The method I have linked below was written for younger puppies, since your dog is older you can adjust the times and take him potty less frequently. I suggest taking him potty every 2.5- 3 hours when you are home. After 1.5 hours (or less if he has an accident sooner) of freedom out of the crate, return him to the crate while his bladder is filling back up again until it has been 3 hours since his last potty trip. When you have to go off he should be able to hold his bladder in the crate for 5-8 hours - less at first while he is getting used to it and longer once he is accustomed to the crate. Only have him wait that long when you are not home though, take him out about every 3 hours while home. If he hasn't gone poop yet during that half of the day, he needs to be tethered to you or returned to the crate, then taken back outside again in 30-45 minutes if you know he likely needs to go, less frequently if he likely doesn't need to poop. Pooping outside equals more freedom. Less freedom now means more freedom later in life. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog just turned 4 months and we have been dealing with his barking, it happens in three occasions: middle of night (can’t figure out the exact reason), when time for food gets closer (mostly morning and lunch time) and play time. I’ve been trying to ignore him, which worked for a couple of days but now he woke me up again, at 1am. His barking is louder and unfortunately I can’t keep ignoring him at this point since i live in a condo. I’m getting desperate, I don’t understand what he wants. He’s also dealing with a dermatitis now, it’s nothing to worry and he’s taking medicine... but I guess that could be a reason too for his demanding behaviour at night. I haven’t let him to be in my bed either, he has his own and during the day he sleeps there normally. I hope you can give me some ideas to fix his behavior. Thank you
Hello Angie, At this age pup may still have to go potty occasionally at night. If it has been at least 4-5 hours since pup last went potty, take them potty on a leash. Keep the trip super boring - no treats, food, play, and little talk. Immediately return them to bed after the potty trip. Work on teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark I also highly suggest crate training pup and having pup sleep in the crate at night once they are trained. To train pup, during the day, practice the Surprise method from the article linked below. Whenever pup stays quiet in the crate for 5 minutes, sprinkle some treats into the crate without opening it, then leave the room again. As he improves, only give the treats every 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 1.5 hour, 2, hour, 3 hour. Practice crating him during the day for 1-3 hours each day that you can. If you are home during the day, have lots of 30 minute - 1 hour long sessions with breaks between to practice this, to help pup learn sooner. Whenever he cries in the crate, tell him "Quiet". If he gets quiet - Great! Sprinkle treats in after five minutes if he stays quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side through the crate while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then leave again. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. Practice for a few days until he is doing well during the day. You can either continue what you are currently doing at night during this process or go ahead and jump into what I explain below for night time training. When he cries at night (in the crate - where he needs to be sleeping for now) before it has been 4-5 hours (so you know it's not a potty issue), tell him Quiet, and correct with the pet convincer if he doesn't become quiet and stay quiet. If he cries after taking him potty when you return him to the crate, also command Quiet, and correct if he doesn't quiet down. If you go straight to nights and days like this you will probably have about 3 rough nights, with lots of correcting before he gets quiet - don't give in and let him out or this will take much longer! But the overall process will go faster if you can stay strong. If you practice the daytime routine first while he continues to sleep out of the crate for a few more days, then start the nighttime routine once pup understands the new rules, the night should go easier when you do make the transition. Either way you need to stay very consistent for this to work - expect pup to protest and for you to have to correct a lot at first. You may want to pretend like you are all going to bed two hours early and read in bed with the lights off - anticipating having to get up a lot the first couple of hours to correct - so that you don't loose as much sleep. Choose whichever option seems less stressful for you ultimately and is something you can stick to. If neighbors complain, you can apologize for the noise and nicely let them know that you are actively working on the problem and things should quiet down soon. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Alfie barks, whines, and jumps on me every time I start a meeting or phone call online - the only way he stops is to be held (he is very attached to me, being a rescue). I have actually just started using the water spray method when he does bark for either physical attention or impatience for treats. I'm wondering if a conjunction of these methods above will work or if i need to now only stick to that one water spray deterrent method? Thanks!
Thank you for the question. I think that if any number of methods work, then utilize them all. I do like the Chewy Toy Method described here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark. I think that giving Alfie something to do that will occupy him for a considerable amount of time is ideal. A kong with frozen peanut butter (no xylitol - it is toxic to dogs!) inside or an interactive treat toy that dispenses food are good ideas. If you anticipate being in meetings, give Alfie a smaller portion of breakfast and let him work for the rest with a toy when you are busy. His breed is a busy one and needs mental stimulation just as much as physical exercise. And speaking of exercise - give him LOTS of it. He may be small but he is a bundle of energy, as you know. A long walk morning and night may do wonders. Good luck!
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I take Thor to the gym everyday and work, he has to be tied up near the door. He is usually tired by this point as we have walked and he's been up and stimulated for a while.
However when I'm on the other side of the room and he can see me but can't get to me, he just barks and cries.
How do I stop that?
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Barking. ugh. Barking at neighbors that she see's every day. Barking for attention. We've worked with her on/with every remedy, but the barking is still happening. Lab's are loud. If she's alone (we're all away at work), there is no barking. If she's busy, there is no barking. We have another dog, so it's not like she has no company or attention. She can be with us/people, and still bark for 'direct' attention. We've tried every piece of advice for this situation. She's currently on her last chance at where she goes for doggy-daycare.
Hello, I would strongly suggest having a trainer come in to give you a hand. One or two sessions can go a long way toward a solution. A trainer who sees Cali one on one will be most effective and it is well worth the investment. You have tried many methods to no avail. Have you tired the Quiet Method? It is often quite effective. Take a look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark. As well, this site has helpful videos and may give you the opportunity to consult a trainer. https://robertcabral.com/. All the best to Cali!
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How is the best and fast way to get my puppy from barking for no reason
Hello! I am sending you a link to a great article that goes over attention seeking barking. Following the steps, and fine tuning them to fit your dynamic should help to curb this issue. https://wagwalking.com/training/stop-barking-for-attention
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Our dog is a big leash reacter and were not necessarily sure how to steer him in the right direction. Weve tried to identify his triggers but it seems like he might be getting worse. Weve attempted treat training but once hes set his sights, no hot dog or pepperoni is tasty enough to sway him. Once the person (especially biker) passes by. He drops it as if they were never there. We would love some advice, hes a sweet boy and we want everyone to see him the way we do!
Thanks for the read and future replies!
Hello. I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. You can apply these methods to people, dogs, or anything your dog is reactive to. The tips are regarding dogs, but just replace "dog" with "kid on a bike" etc! The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. You mentioned that he ignores treats. You will want to have him far enough away that he isn't too over stimulated. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what he is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram his opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell the dog, sit, "watch me" or whatever command you want to use for this exercise. Remember to go slowly. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice.
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Outside pet, stays in pen and large shed. We put her out on tie down every day with toys (live on highway lost several dogs to vehicle). This has gone very well until recently. She has started barking after I go back in the house. If she is in the pen and I am outside working she barks. But if she is in the pen and no one is around, nothing. She's quiet
Hello, Sassy is young and no doubt lonely, and maybe even anxious about being outside on her own. I am not well-versed in the care of outside dogs, so cannot give a detailed answer. Dogs are pack animals and can be sad when not allowed to be with their pack (which is your family). Dogs like company and crave contact and closeness just like people do. If Sassy does not have attention other than feeding and walks on a leash, she may develop issues like barking, and socialization could be a problem down the road (with other dogs and people). If you are not able to have Sassy as an inside pet, perhaps consider another dog as companion for her. You can try teaching her the quiet command as described here, but this is something typically worked on in constant and close proximity: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark. All the best to Sassy and happy training!
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My dog barks for attention, I tell him off he continues thinks its playtime, Hes been living with me now for just over a week as my ex partner kept him. I just want the barking to stop and for him to listen to me, tried a remote barking collar seems to stress him out and makes him bark more
Hello there! If you haven't started exercising him and working on basic training commands, that is a good place to start. Spending 10 minutes a day working on commands he knows, or teaching him new ones will keep his brain a bit more engaged. It will also help him learn that the things you say are expectations, not just words. He's a big guy! He will need a solid 30 minutes of moderate exercise, if not more, per day. There are also toys designed to keep dogs entertained. One is called a Kong. The other toy I suggest is a Buster Cube. You can feed him his meal in these toys. He would essentially be working for his meal which will wear him out a little mentally. Also during the day, you can put some frozen peanut butter or whatever else you want in these. You may have to get a little creative, but this is always a good solution.
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Hello everyone I'm a 15 year old boy writing about my concerns with our household dog Jake. My mom is getting tired with his constant barking outside and always trying to get in. She tried offering several times to give him away but me and my siblings aren't too fond of that idea. I'm giving him more walks and letting him inside sometimes but after reading this giving him attention when he is barking doesn't seem to be the best long term option. He is really hyper so walks/runs are helping to calm him down. He can't come inside but I'm always out there sorta chilling with him. If someone can help me get some first steps down. I really love him and don't wanna loose him for something we couldn't teach him. :( I really wish he could at least learn how to be quiet more than anything. He can't fetch or roll over but sit is working out so far. He's kind of stubborn so might take a while to get somewhere. He doesn't have any toys yet. I could maybe get some. Just don't know if he'll grow a connection to it. Anyways if any experts are reading this I really need a response before he's gone from our lives. :(
Hello there! Toys are a great idea. The poodle in him needs mental stimulation, as well as physical exercise. You are off to a great start with the physical exercise and teaching him some training commands. The more he learns, the more his brain will stay engaged. He is likely bored and needs just a little more during his day. There are toys designed to keep dogs entertained. One is called a Kong. The other toy I suggest is a Buster Cube. You can feed him his meal in these toys. He would essentially be working for his meal which will wear him out a little mentally. Also during the day, you can put some frozen peanut butter or whatever else you want in these. You may have to get a little creative, but this is always a good solution.
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I have 3 male dogs all fixed. My 2 chihuahuas are father and son. The big one is a huge dog that thinks hes the king. They are all very loved and have a lot of our attention. My problem is every sound they hear they bark at. It starts slow then they feed off each other and just go crazy. It is embarrassing and loud and I cant take it anymore.
Hello! I am going to provide you with steps on how to teach a dog the "quiet" command. To start the training, you will need some small and delicious dog treats or your dog's favorite toy. Rewards should be immediate and very valuable. You need to make the action worth it to your dog. Small liver treats, chicken pieces, or similar training treats work best. You will also need a barking stimulus such as a doorbell or someone to knock on the door. Train Your Dog to Be Quiet It is a good idea to start with the quiet cue and make sure your dog knows it before moving on to the bark cue. Some like to teach the two cues together to begin with. This is your choice; it is about your comfort level, confidence, and the dog's ability to learn. Use your best judgment. Dogs with a tendency to become "excessive barkers" might need to learn the quiet command first. Choose one simple word for the quiet command. This cue word should be easy to remember and used consistently. Good choices include "enough," "quiet," and "hush." Create a situation that will cause your dog to bark. The best method is to have someone ring the doorbell or knock on the door. Or, you may be able to get your dog very excited to cause barking. Sometimes seeing another dog can bring on barking as well. When your dog barks, briefly acknowledge it by checking for the source (look out the window or door). Then, go back to your dog and get its attention (you might try holding up the treat or toy). After the barking stops, give your dog the toy or treat. Repeat these steps and gradually wait for slightly longer periods of silence each time before giving the treat. Once your dog has remained quiet a few times, add the cue word you have chosen. While your dog is barking, say your quiet command in a firm, audible, and upbeat voice while holding up the reward. Give your dog the reward when the barking stops. Practice the "quiet" cue frequently. You can do this anytime your dog barks, but keep training sessions brief.
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How do I get my puppy to stop jumping on my kid? She knows she’s playing but majority of times when she is on her tablet, Honey likes to jump on the sofa and jump on her, causing her to tumble and Honey having the advantage of jumping on her back or even biting her hair.
Hello Jennifer, Check out the Leave It method from the article linked below to help with the biting: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite For the jumping, work on the Step toward method gently with pup in general: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Finally, teach the Out command. When pup is biting your daughter, use the section on Using Out to Deal with Pushy Behavior to enforce manners on your daughter's behalf without her having teach puppy herself. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi, I have a 10 month old male lab who barks and yaps for attention. I work in a doggy day care and he comes with me everyday 8-5 so it’s a long day of fun and play for him. However he is very needy and will bark and yap if I’m not near him, it’s got to the point were he will just stand there and bark at me. I know he’s picked it up as a habit as a few of the older dogs in my care do it as well but are a lot more obedient when you tell them to be quiet. I have tried the quiet method with him but with no success with the amount of dogs in my care. It puts a lot of stress of myself and my colleagues as it is constant and I have to put him away in my car until he stop as he winds up the other dogs. It has made be develop hatred for him as he is my fiancé’s not mine. I would really appreciate any advice you could give as I am honestly at the point that I have considered rehoming him. Thanks
Hello Nicole, Since it sounds like you have already taught him the Quiet command, I recommend practicing the following at home first. When he barks at your for attention at home or somewhere like the park, tell pup to be Quiet. If he gets quiet and remains quiet for 2-5 minutes give him a treat for staying quiet - not just getting quiet after he has learned that command though, because then he will bark and stop just to get a treat. As he improves, gradually wait until he has stayed quiet for longer and longer before you offer a reward. When he doesn't stop barking when told quiet, or if he stops but starts right up again after, calmly tell him "Ah Ah" and spray a small puff of unscented air from a pet convincer at his side (do NOT spray in the face though). After spraying pup, ignore him until he has stayed quiet for at least five minutes, then give attention for being calm and polite instead. Don't use the citronella pet conviner - only unscented air, as the citronella lingers making it confusing since its still correcting pup after they stop barking, and it's too harsh for a dog's senstive nose. Correct with a puff of air each time pup barks, reward periods of calmness and quiet when you catch pup waiting for your attention that way. I also recommend working on building pup's respect for you in general by practicing the methods from the article linked below - especially the working and consistency methods at home and throughout your day. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Quiet command - if pup doesn't already know the command: Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Gino will bark in his pen all day. We have people checking on him regular while at work and also have a 2 way camera in the room to keep an eye. We only feed him with Kungs to keep him occupied and active. But what he usually does is finish his Kung has a sleep but once awake will not stop barking until someone comes to check and let him out a couple of hours later. What is our best way of overcoming this?
Hi there. It sounds like you have some separation anxiety going on. Because this behavior issue is complex, I have a lot of information to send you. With some time and practice, this is something that can be turned around over the next month or so. The first step in treating separation anxiety is to break the cycle of anxiety. Every time a dog with separation anxiety becomes anxious when their owner leaves, the distress they feel is reinforced until they become absolutely frantic any time they are left alone. Owners should give the dog an acceptable item to chew, such as a long lasting food treat when they go out. The goal is to have the dog associate this special treat with the owner’s departure. Treats might include hollow bones stuffed with peanut butter or soft cheese, drilled out nylon bones, or hollow rubber chew toys such as Kong toys with similar enhancements (place these in the freezer before giving them to your dog to make them last longer). Give the bone to your dog about 15 minutes before preparing to depart. The chew toy should be used only as a reward to offset the anxiety triggered by your departure. Hiding a variety of these delectable food treats throughout the house may occupy the dog so that the owner’s departure is less stressful. In an effort to prevent destructive behavior, many owners confine their dog in a crate or behind a gate. For dogs that display “barrier frustration,” the use of a crate in this way is counterproductive. Many dogs will physically injure themselves while attempting to escape such confinement. Careful efforts to desensitize and counter condition the dog to crate confinement before leaving them alone may be helpful in some cases. However, some dogs rebel against any form of restraint, including restricting barriers and, for them, crate training may never be a positive experience. Crate training and utilizing the crate while people are home can be a positive way to make the crate a safe place. If you utilize it when people are around, your dog won’t necessarily associate the crate with departure and being left alone. Creating nap time in the crate throughout the day can also be helpful. Building Independence Independence training can help fight separation anxiety and loneliness. Independence training can help build confidence and instill obedience. “Doggie Daycare” or hiring a pet sitter may be a better alternative for dogs that are initially resistant to treatment. It can be expensive, but prices vary. Independence training is one of the more important aspects of the program. It involves teaching your dog to “stand on their own four feet” when you are present, with the express intention that their newfound confidence will spill over into times when you are away. You need to make your dog more independent by reducing the bond between both of you to a more healthy level of involvement. Decreasing the bond is the hardest thing for owners to accept. Most people acquire dogs because they want a strong relationship with them. However, you have to accept that the anxiety your dog experiences in your absence is destructive. Essential components of the independence training program are as follows: Your dog can be with you, but the amount of interaction time should be reduced, especially where attention-seeking behaviors are concerned. You should initiate all interactions with your dog, and they shouldn’t be permitted to demand attention. If you give your dog attention every time they whine, it helps to foster the dog’s dependence on you and increases its anxiety in your absence. You should ignore your dog completely when they engage in attention-seeking behavior, and avoid catering to them when they appear to feel anxious. This means no eye contact, no pushing away, and no soothing talk or body language, all of which will reward their attention-seeking mission. Attention is encouraged only when your dog is sitting or lying calmly. The goal is not to ignore your dog, but to stop reinforcing attention-seeking behaviors so that your dog develops a sense of independence. Minimize the extent to which your dog follows you by teaching them to remain relaxed in one spot, such as their bed. To accomplish this, it is helpful if you train them to perform a sit-stay or down-stay while gradually increasing the time that they hold the command and remain at a distance from you. Providing a treat or toy and encouraging individual play time can be helpful. Once your dog has learned basic obedience commands, you can train them to hold long down-stays while you move progressively farther away. First, your dog should be trained to perform a “down-stay” on a mat or dog bed using a specific command, such as “lie down.” Your dog may have to be gently escorted to the designated spot the first few times. Initially, they should be rewarded every 10 seconds for remaining there, then every 20 seconds, 30 seconds, and so on. Once they have figured out what is wanted, you should switch to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement [reward], as this will strengthen the learned response. Each time your dog breaks their “stay,” issue a verbal correction, indicating that there will be no reward, and then escort them back to their bed. First, your dog can be made to “down-stay” while you are in the room. Next, they can be asked to stay when you are outside of the room, but nearby. The distance and time you are away from your dog can be increased progressively until your dog can remain in a down-stay for 20 to 30 minutes in your absence. Your dog should be warmly praised for compliance. Of course, they need to accept the praise without breaking the stay. Your dog should become accustomed to being separated from you when you are home for varying lengths of time and at different times of day. You can set up child gates to deny your dog access into the room you’re occupying (i.e. reading, watching television, or cooking). Instruct your dog to lie down and stay on a dog bed outside the room. As previously mentioned, you can provide an extended-release food treat or toy to keep your dog calm and distracted. Once they are able to tolerate being separated from you by a child gate, you can graduate to shutting the door to the room so your dog cannot see you. Allowing a dog to sleep in bed with the family can increase dependence. If you decide to prevent your dog from sleeping in your bed, there are some steps to take to establish this routine. First, you need to train your dog to sleep in their own bed on the floor in your bedroom. They may have to be taken to their bed several times before they get the message that you really want them to sleep in their own bed. Alternatively, you can train your dog to enjoy sleeping in a crate to prevent unwanted excursions. Do not use a crate if it causes more anxiety and distress for your dog. Once they tolerate sleeping in their own bed in your bedroom, you can move their bed outside of the bedroom and use a child gate or barrier to keep them out. Always remember to reward your dog with praise or a food treat for remaining in their bed. Develop Departure Techniques Many owners erroneously feel that if separation is so stressful, then they should spend more time with their dog before leaving. Unfortunately, this only exacerbates the condition. Everyone in the family should ignore your dog for 15 to 20 minutes before leaving the house and for at least 10 to 20 minutes after returning home. Alternatively, your leaving can be made a highlight of your dog’s day by making it a “happy time” and the time at which they are fed. Departures should be quick and quiet. When departures (and returns) generate less anxiety (and excitement), your dog will begin to feel less tension in your absence. Remember to reward calm behavior. Teach your dog that your departure and return are just normal parts of the day and are not times to be stressed. You should attempt to randomize the cues indicating that you are preparing to leave. Changing the cues may take some trial and error. Some cues mean nothing to a dog, while others trigger anxiety. Make a list of the things you normally do before leaving for the day (and anxiety occurs) and the things done before a short time out (and no anxiety occurs).Then mix up the cues. For example, if your dog is fine when you go downstairs to do the laundry, you can try taking the laundry basket with you when you leave for work. If your dog becomes anxious when you pick up your keys or put on a coat, you should practice these things when you are not really leaving. You can, for example, stand up, put on a coat or pick up your car keys during television commercials, and then sit down again. You can also open and shut doors while you are home when you do not intend to leave. Entering and exiting through various doors when leaving and returning can also mix up cues for your dog. When you are actually leaving, you should try not to give any cues to this effect. Leave your coat in the car and put your keys in the ignition well before leaving. It is important to randomize all the cues indicating departure (clothing, physical and vocal signals, interactions with family members, other pets, and so on). The planned departure technique can be very effective for some dogs. This program is recommended only under special circumstances because it requires that you never leave your dog alone during the entire retraining period, which can be weeks or months. Timing is everything when implementing this program. If your dog shows signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, barking excessively) the instant you walk out of the door, you should stand outside the door and wait until your dog is quiet for three seconds. Then go back inside quickly and reward your dog for being calm. If you return WHEN your dog is anxious, this reinforces your dog’s tendency to display the behavior, because it has the desired effect of reuniting the “pack” members. The goal is for your dog to connect being calm and relaxed with your return. Gradually work up to slightly longer departures 5 to 10 minutes as long as your dog remains quiet, and continue in this fashion. Eventually, you should be able to leave for the day without your dog becoming anxious when you depart. When performed correctly, this program can be very helpful in resolving separation anxiety. Other Treatment Options Obedience Training Obedience training helps to instill confidence and independence in your dog. You should spend 5 to 10 minutes daily training your dog to obey one-word commands. It may be helpful to have training sessions occur in the room where your dog will be left when you are gone. All positive experiences (food, toys, sleep, training, and attention) should be associated with this area of the home. Exercise Your dog should receive 15 to 20 minutes of sustained aerobic exercise once, preferably twice, per day. It is often helpful to exercise your dog before you leave for the day. Exercise helps to dissipate anxiety and provides constructive interaction between you and your dog. It is best to allow your dog 15 to 20 minutes to calm down before you depart. Fetching a ball is good exercise, as is going for a brisk walk or run with your dog on a leash. Even if your dog has a large yard to run in all day, the aerobic exercise will be beneficial since most dogs will not tire themselves if left to their own devices. This is incredibly helpful in dogs that are working breeds that need a job to expend energy and work their brains. Supplements Recently, supplements have been released to the public that can help dogs with anxiety. Purina created a probiotic that has been shown to reduce anxiety and provide a calming effect on some dogs. Your veterinarian may recommend this product for treating anxiety, or other products that contain L-Theanine or L-tryptophan.
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She is a rescue dog from Ireland and she’s very demanding she will bark if she doesn’t get her own way or come up to us and starts biting which at times can become painful. She only listens to commands when she wants to and the treat idea hasn’t worked yet neither has the leaving the room as she then starts to whine and tries to follow me. Apart from this she’s a loving softie
Hello Dave, First, I recommend desensitizing pup to wearing a basket muzzle and have pup temporarily wear the muzzle while you are home to supervise so that pup can't use their mouth to demand attention while you implement new boundaries and deal with pup's overall attitude. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Second, work on building pup's overall respect and trust for you. Check out the article linked below and follow all three methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Third, get pup working. I recommend teaching Place, Heel, Out, Heel, Leave It, and other commands to give pup better direction while also building trust and respect, independence, and increasing pup's confidence - clear boundaries can help nervous dogs feel more confident also. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Heel- Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Come - Reel in method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Off- section on The Off command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-train-dog-stay-off-couch/ Because pup is demanding their way with their mouth, practice obedience with the muzzle on or while working with a private trainer who specializes in behavior issues, because it's very likely pup will protest by trying to nip or bite - your response should be consistency, calmness, and confidence, enforcing commands you have given calmly and clearly, taking the time to proactively teach pup what a command means ahead of time, and working pup up to being able to perform that command for longer and around more distractions. This is a situation that would be worth hiring professional help, especially if you feel overwhelmed, aren't seeing progress, don't feel you can train safety, or things are getting worse. Don't skip on the basket muzzle and take measure to stay safe whenever dealing with any type of aggression - even if the aggression is only occassional. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello we have a rescue dog 8 days now and slowly more bad than good habits are coming out which I am determined to help resolve.
- crying for attention even when through the day we spend 5 hours on the least with him. So I tried using the quiet command and he barked instead so I shut the door of the room he is in and waited until quiet. I understand I need to wait longer?
- terrible on lead and listening to us outside. Whilst training at home is progressing well he does constantly pull. We have tried lure method and its still a huge struggle. Any tips?
- finally he doesnt know how to play so he gets very rough and mouthy. When he misbehaves too much I say time out and me or husband will take him back in his pen and ignore or to the corner of the room and ignore. When he calms down we start play again but it repeats all the time.. so how can we help him play by himself calmly esp as today twice he nipped at us for trying to take him to time out.
Hello Bhumi, For the pulling, check out the Turns method from the article linked below. Pay special attention to the steps on turning directly in front of pup as soon as their nose starts to move past your leg - don't wait until his head is all the way past your leg to turn in front of him or this will be hard to do. It should look like pup sitting beside you, slightly behind you so that head is behind your leg, step forward and as soon as he starts to move ahead of you, quickly turn directly in front of him. You will probably have to be fast at first and may bump into him until he starts to learn this. Practice in an open area, like your own yard, so that you can make lots of turns easily. You want pup to learn that he should stay slightly behind and pay attention to where you are going and where you may turn, instead of assuming he knows the way and can forge ahead. The turns keep him guessing and more focused. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel For the mouthing, I suggest teaching Leave It from the Leave It method...Use this command to tell him to stop or not start biting once you have taught the command well - like the method outlines: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out command (which means leave the area), use this command to tell him to leave an area, especially kids' or guests' presence, when the temptation is too much for him. There is a section on teaching the Out command, follow that. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Place command - have him work up to staying on Place for two hours. This is a good general command, teaches calmness and impulse control, and can help with management in general. This will take some time and practice, starting with just a couple of minutes on Place at first. Place method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjCcVXGFvTs At this age the biting could be partially a respect issue too. Some dogs have a strong defense drive and when you apply physical pressure of any kind they will fight back against the pressure instead of submitting and stopping the behavior. It is especially important with these dogs to use methods that teach respect but teach it using body language, consistency, obedience commands, structure, and other things that teach the dog's mind - instead of just getting into a physical confrontation with them. It is also very important for the dog to understand why they are being disciplined and to have the skills to stop themselves. Working on commands like Out and Leave It - that help the dog understand what you are asking of them, and commands like Place, Heel, and the additional commands I have linked below can help build the impulse control and respect too. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Consistency method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Have a professional help you if pup is acting at all aggressive - don't do this on your own or without safety measures like a basket muzzle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg For the barking, check out the surprise method for barking when left alone, and continue ignoring attention seeking barking and calmly making pup leave the room - like with Out or a drag leash while you are home to supervise. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate/ If you see signs of aggression, I recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and comes well recommended in this area of training, to help you in person.
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He will not stop barking for our attention! We really try not to give him any attention when he barks and praise him when he’s quiet, but he just continues to do it.
Hello Nadia, First, I recommend making sure pup is being stimulated mentally, in addition to physically, through things like training sessions, incorporating obedience into his day by having him do a command before being given something he wants throughout the day, puzzle toys, and other interactive toys like dog food stuffed Kongs. Second, I recommend teaching the Quiet command during the day using the Quiet method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark When pup is barking or you anticipate pup will bark (such as when you are ignoring them or about to feed and they usually bark at those times), tell pup Quiet. Reward pup with a treat if they get quiet or stay quiet. As pup improves, wait until pup has stayed quiet for gradually longer and longer, adding one more minute to how long pup must stay quiet for at a time, so that pup learns not only to get quiet but to stay quiet. If he continues barking or stops and starts again, spray a quick puff of air from a pet convincer at his side while calmly saying "Ah Ah", then ignore him. Only use unscented air canisters, DON'T use citronella! And avoid spraying in the face. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Repeat the rewards when quiet and the corrections whenever he cries. Giving pup an alternative way to get attention can also help. Things like teaching pup to go to Place when guests arrive, Sit to ask to be petted, Down before you feed, ect...Give pup appropriate ways to ask for your attention, in place of the barking. If pup has ever shown any form of aggression, I would address that first with a qualified trainer before correcting the barking behavior on your own, since additional safety measures will need to be in place with an aggressive dog and the barking could actually be related to what's underneath the aggression too, if pup is aggressive. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog barks when he wants attention and is quite noisy sometimes which is not good. I try to stop by turning my back and not paying attention to her but she does not stop. She also barks when she wants water or leaves the room when we eat and sometimes I feel quite difficult because it barks quite loudly. I will be grateful if you help me.
Hello Viktoria, For the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - neither too harsh nor ineffective. A Pet Convincer is one example of an interrupter. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking, command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction at their side. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup understands the routine, wait until pup stays quiet for gradually longer and longer before rewarding them - so that they don't just bark and get quiet in hopes of a treat. At that point, reward pup just for staying quiet, like when you catch them nicely lying on their bed quietly while you work, chewing their own toy contentedly, ect...And just correct if they bark, without the treat reward right after when it's quiet. Also, notice when pup is being quiet and polite and reward, like when you catch pup chewing on a toy on their bed calmly, calmly walk past, place a treat between pup's paws, and walk away. Notice when pup is doing what you want them to be and encourage that calmly. I also recommend giving pup things to do to stimulate them mentally. You can feed pup their meals in dog food stuffed hollow chew toys, like Kongs, in puzzle toys, in things like Kong wobbles. You can teach pup new tricks and commands or work on building current skills with commands they already know. You can practice training with pup throughout the day by incorporating commands into games of fetch, heeling walks, having pup work for what they want by doing a command like Sit before you open the door to go on a walk, place their meal down, pet, or give a toy. Choose some rhythms that are easy for you to implement consistently to help pup learn to self-entertain better. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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pulling while walking and go crazy some times.
barks and trying to bite some times
Hello Gowri, For the pulling, check out the Turns method from the article linked below. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel For the biting, I would need more details on pup's behavior and the circumstances pup is biting in to give any advice there. For aggression, I do recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression, and comes well recommended by their previous clients, to evaluate your dog's behavior in person, put the safety measures in place that are needed, and tailor the training to you and your dog based on what they learn about their behavior. If pup is acting aggressively toward you, I would also have someone help you with the heeling, instead of doing that on your own. You will likely need to desensitize pup to wearing a basket muzzle before beginning heel training, for safety, also. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We have had Bert since he was 10 weeks and at about 11 months he started barking at my boyfriend whenever he wants attention because that is who he loves to play with. If my boyfriend ignores him, he will come over and growl and bark closer to him. He sounds mean but he has never gotten aggressive. I think he just tries to get a rise out of us. We have been putting him in the bathroom for 5 mins after he does this or putting his collar on which seems to work ok but it takes us 10 mins to even catch him to get him in the bathroom or his collar on. He runs the minute someone stands up. I feel like it’s just the chase that he wants. Also, we live in an apartment so for my neighbors sake...we need him to stop with this. Only happens maybe one time per day or every other day but is getting very habitual....
Hello! It sounds like he needs a little bit of mental stimulation. There are some awesome puzzle toys out there that all dogs can figure out and play with . They really help with barking or other undesirable behaviors. And are especially great for apartment living or winter time when getting outside is limited. You can do a search for one called a buster cube, and then a general search for dog puzzle games and see which ones your dog may like.
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I walked with him for more than 3 hours i am pretty sure he was so tired but when we came home he started barking nonstop and i tried giving him the cold shoulder but he has been at it for four hours straight
Hello! It sounds like you may be dealing with some sort of anxiety. I need to ask quite a few follow up questions to be able to pinpoint what exactly is going on. But it sounds as though your dog may need some mental stimulation. Sometimes physical exercise just isn't enough. I would invest in a few puzzle games or toys for your dog. If you do a search online for puzzle games, or something called a buster cube, you can see what is best for your dynamic and give him one of these toys to play with when he starts barking non stop. That should help keep him occupied.
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My dog barks constantly. Sometimes she looks at me for attention and other times she just sits and barks at nothing
Hello Lyndal, First, has pup ever shown any form of aggression toward you? If so, I recommend working with a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression in person to address this issue, as it's probably related to a bigger issue stemming from pup's lack of respect for you, that needs to be addressed carefully to avoid a bite. If pup has never shown any form of aggression toward you, the issue is likely pup being bored and demanding attention, then also barking to entertain themselves for fun - barking can be a self-rewarding behavior and because a dog may find barking itself pleasant they continue doing it. For the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with her so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - neither too harsh nor ineffective. A Pet Convincer is one example of an interrupter. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking, command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction at their side. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward them. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup understands the routine, wait until pup stays quiet for gradually longer and longer before rewarding them - so that they don't just bark and get quiet in hopes of a treat. At that point, reward pup just for staying quiet, like when you catch them nicely lying on their bed quietly while you work, chewing their own toy contentedly, ect...And just correct if they bark, without the treat reward right after when it's quiet. I would also provide pup with more outlets for their mental and physical energy to address the underlying boredom. You can feed meals in stuffed chew toys, puzzle toys, ect...To help with entertainment. I find that the Kong wobble toys and similar device are quick ways to feed meals when you don't have time to stuff a chew toy. When you exercise her, instead of focusing on huge amounts of exercise alone, you can implement training that's a bit challenging into the exercise to stimulate her mentally too - that can be twice as effective as exercise alone for tiring pup out and helping pup feel calmer afterwards. For example, have pup practice a structured, focused heel during walks, practicing their sit and Down commands periodically throughout the walk. Have a fast paced training session instead of one of exercise times, with come, heel, doggie push-ups (fast repetitions of sit, down, stand commands in random order) and other commands that involve movement thrown in. Incorporate Sit, Down, Wait, Watch Me, and Stay type commands into a game of fetch. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Although adorable, and an actual love bug, Arya can often cause real trouble for me and my family. She is currently 1 years old and she's always had the excessive need to nip and bite whenever she played with us, something that was driving me crazy, especially when she was still a few months old. Unfortunately, having heard that this is a very common issue among puppy owners, I never trained her not to bite, thinking it would dissapear as she got older and grew adult teeth, which is true, but not for the most part. As my family started getting more and more frustrated by the constant ankle biting as we were walking, her whining and barking when she was not getting attention, her hyper-activity that just wouldn't let us have proper sleep or even a minute of peace, gave me a terrible migraine for over a month, and we decided she couldn't stay in the home with us anymore. So my father took her to his working place where she had plenty of space to run and waste her energy. She was actually very, VERY happy. But she was alone for the most day. And that really made me regret this decision. So after a couple of months we got her back hoping it'd be better for her and us, but it was actually 10 times worse. She bit my mom's ear on an attempt to get her attention and she cut a part of it off. So that was when we took our final decision, and that was to give her away. But my dad didn't give up on her and told us he will do everything to keep her, so he took her with him at his village's house, a fairly big house with a huge garden. She stayed there and he took her with him on walks every single day. I visited her very often and noticed a big change in her personality and behavior. She had stopped the puppy behavior for the most part but she was still biting a lot. She barely barked for our attention and if she needed anything she'd mainly whine. I'm adding any information I can about her whole life up until now because I believe it's important. I've been using "Don't" as a command in order to make her stop biting me while I pet her and I take my hand away until she calms down and then I repeat the same process until she gets the message. But recently we have been playing more and she bit me very hard around 10 times continuously on the same hand because she got frustrated I believe as I would make her calm down before I threw her toy. I don't discipline her in any way as I don't believe it works and it sometimes gives the opposite results. I usually just quit playing until she is in a calm state again. She is my first dog and I've always wanted a dog but I'm really not experienced with any of this so I'd really appreciate some help! I know dogs are a huge responsibility and I should have thought about it way more than I did before I got her but I'm really not planning to give up on her.
Hello, there are many things you can do to help Arya. The details that you gave me point to the fact that she does better when she has a lot of time outside in the fresh air. You've got a smart and energetic pup there that needs LOTS of exercise and mental stimulation, too. I suggest that everyone take turns taking Arya for walks. She'll get lots of exercise and will also bond more with everyone who takes her for activities she likes to do. Work on some training exercises while walking. This will stimulate her mind and tire her out more. Dogs love to train! Start with Heeling while on walks. Any method here will work: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. For obedience and great training tips: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-pitbull-puppy-to-be-obedient. To not bite: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-bite-2 (All methods are good but especially read the Do's and Don'ts Method). Enroll Arya in dog training classes - she'll love it and it will give her a chance to be socialized and to learn from other dogs. But if the biting does not cease after all of these training tips and loads of exercise, call in a trainer used to working with dogs who bite for extra help. Good luck!
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barking for attention & biting my hands hard when I watch TV
Hello! Here is information on puppy nipping/biting. Nipping: Puppies may nip for a number of reasons. Nipping can be a means of energy release, getting attention, interacting and exploring their environment or it could be a habit that helps with teething. Whatever the cause, nipping can still be painful for the receiver, and it’s an action that pet parents want to curb. Some ways to stop biting before it becomes a real problem include: Using teething toys. Distracting with and redirecting your dog’s biting to safe and durable chew toys is one way to keep them from focusing their mouthy energies to an approved location and teach them what biting habits are acceptable. Making sure your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise. Exercise is huge. Different dogs have different exercise needs based on their breed and size, so check with your veterinarian to make sure that yours is getting the exercise they need. Dogs—and especially puppies—use their playtime to get out extra energy. With too much pent-up energy, your pup may resort to play biting. Having them expel their energy in positive ways - including both physical and mental exercise - will help mitigate extra nips. Being consistent. Training your dog takes patience, practice and consistency. With the right training techniques and commitment, your dog will learn what is preferred behavior. While sometimes it may be easier to let a little nipping activity go, be sure to remain consistent in your cues and redirection. That way, boundaries are clear to your dog. Using positive reinforcement. To establish preferred behaviors, use positive reinforcement when your dog exhibits the correct behavior. For instance, praise and treat your puppy when they listen to your cue to stop unwanted biting as well as when they choose an appropriate teething toy on their own. Saying “Ouch!” The next time your puppy becomes too exuberant and nips you, say “OUCH!” in a very shocked tone and immediately stop playing with them. Your puppy should learn - just as they did with their littermates - that their form of play has become unwanted. When they stop, ensure that you follow up with positive reinforcement by offering praise, treat and/or resuming play. Letting every interaction with your puppy be a learning opportunity. While there are moments of dedicated training time, every interaction with your dog can be used as a potential teaching moment.
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Barking. Also barks at people coming towards us and snapping round people. Not sure as this is not everyone. On holiday and she has not been like this at home although does bark.
Hello Susan, For the snapping and barking around others, you will want to address why pup is barking and snapping by working through pup's aggression and determining what type of aggression you are dealing with - is pup possessive of you, fearful of people, or aggressive for another reason. I recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression who can evaluate pup's behavior and history to determine how to train to improve it. Look for someone who comes well recommended by their previous clients and advertises to work with aggression cases. For the attention seeking barking, that will partially involve building pup's respect for you gently, as well as teaching commands like Quiet, rewarding quietness, and giving a gentle consequence for the barking - because pup is also behaving aggressively in other scenarios I would work with a trainer to also do this, so that you don't risk pup turning that aggression toward you. The training will need to be done a little more carefully, evaluating pup's response to how you train as you go. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Macey seems obsessive compulsive, she is obsessed with her toy a rubber tire and barks at me incessantly until I get it for her, she also is aggressive with my other 2 dogs over it, she can be a little aggressive in general. She is a sweet dog, I know I have helped this behavior by not being the leader in the pack, I just don’t know how to accomplish it....
Hello Heidi, To build pup's relationship with you, check out the methods from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you For the obsession with the toy, I actually recommend getting rid of, or hiding that specific toy somewhere that pup doesn't know where it is. With that toy removed, then work on providing mental stimulation through things like the Obedience method from the article linked above. Expect pup's protests to get worse at first before they get better when the source of obsession is removed and pup has to learn other ways to get that need for stimulation met in healthier ways. Stay consistent - if you choose to hide and not get rid of the toy, make sure you won't give in and get it out when pup protests at first. Training practice, training games, the Working method from the article linked above also, and incorporating training into things like a walk or game of fetch can all give pup healthier outlets for their need for stimulation, without getting locked into an obsession. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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