Taking your pooch for a walk should be a relaxing experience. Imagine yourself walking down a country lane with your family and friends, wind in your hair, relaxing noises of the birds and trees. But uh-oh, wait a minute, relaxing noises of the birds?! Your pooch hears them too-- he's a serial barker and won't stop!
Suddenly, all the birds disappear and all you’re left with is the horrible whiney noise of your pooch barking non-stop. Not only is this a massive headache and all that you can now hear is your naughty pup barking and scaring the wildlife, your friends and relatives comment on how badly behaved he is--how embarrassing. To stop situations like this one occurring, read on for a few simple steps you can take to stop your pooch from ruining walks and days out.
Training your dog not to bark on walks will teach him some well-needed manners and obedience and make your life a lot less stressful. There are benefits to other animals as well, such as not disrupting wildlife and cats, which could become quite stressed at your dog's barks. Other dogs might also see this barking as a sign of aggression, especially when in close proximity to them. Another dog could snap and cause a fight with your pooch, potentially causing some serious injuries requiring veterinary attention.
It is best to catch them early and teach your dog to stop barking on walks as soon as they have been vaccinated and the appropriate time has elapsed for their immune systems to process the vaccine, normally 1 week after the final vaccination of the course. This will be when they are able to start walking and be taught walking etiquette, including not barking constantly. Adult dogs can also be trained, however, this can be more difficult as this behavior could have been going on unchecked for years. Therefore, depending on the dog, this training can take weeks to months to learn.
To get started, teaching your dog the ‘heel’ command first can be useful, so that he walks in an orderly fashion at your heel to begin with, so they know that you’re the boss and what you say goes. This will help enforce your training and commanding them to stop barking. Treats are necessary, so that your pet has a tasty reward when he behaves himself and keeps quiet or stops the barking at your say so. Clickers are also good to signify to your pooch that he has performed the correct behavior, remember to give him a treat as well though. Make sure you have a collar or harness and lead that are appropriate for your pup's age and size before you get started.
At home, our 9-month-old cockapoo behaves perfectly; however, on a walk, he turns crazy. Whenever we encounter another dog, he becomes out of control. He cannot focus on anything other than the dog, and screeches and jumps around. When allowed to stop and sniff the other dog, he calms down and it seems as though he just wants to say hello. However, we cannot always spend time meeting the other dogs, and quite frankly, the walks are becoming unenjoyable for both of us.
Hello Ellie, Check out the videos below explaining leash reactivity and demonstrating how to work with a dog. (This trainer can be a bit blunt with his people teaching style, but he has a lot of experience with highly reactive and aggressive dogs). The behavior you are dealing with would be called leash reactivity (which is different than leash aggression since it doesn't lead to fights on his end): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXLPwyKEjHI&t=14s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGofhEc1YPg&t=305s Note, that the fixated, aroused mindset is interrupted very early on, before the dog explodes, as soon as he starts to fixate. The entire walk is also structured so that the dog is working to focus on their person and not on other things they shouldn't be reacting towards. Starting the walk off right and having the dog walk slightly behind you puts the dog into a following mindset, calms them down, and prevents him from constantly scanning the area looking for dogs and working himself up during the walk. Finally, I do not recommend nose to nose greetings right now. Tell others that you are "in training" if they ask to let the dogs meet. Instead, join a dog walking group, walk with friends and their well behaved dogs with the dogs in a structured heel, or join an obedience class, to practice calmness around other dogs and not over arousal and extreme excitement. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have been teaching my puppy "quiet" when we're at home and it's slowly working, but has no affect on her outside. When out in public (mostly on walks), she always barks at other dogs and people. It's very obnoxious and embarrassing. I also know I need to get her more socialized with other dogs, but it seems that she's a little scared of them once she actually encounters one. I would eventually like to teach her to speak on command as well. She wears a harness which has helped a bit with her pulling, but she still walks very quickly and excitedly. I know she's still young too, but do you have any suggestions?
Hello Marissa, I suggest working on desensitizing her to the things he is afraid of and barking at. Continue working on Quiet because just like any other command she needs to work up to being able to do it around distractions, so she needs to practice it around gradually harder and harder distractions - starting with easier distractions first. Desensitization 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jp_l9C1yT1g&list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a Desensitization 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5BjvNScFPs&list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a&index=2 Desensitization 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JY7JrteQBOQ&list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a&index=3 Desensitization 4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXCELHDT2fs&list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a&index=4 Desensitization 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxPrNnulp5s You can use the Quiet method from the article linked below to teach him Speak also. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark The fact that she is nervous around other dogs suggests she needs more socialization, I suggest reaching out to any friends with puppies and setting up play dates with as many different puppies as you can under close supervision (doesn't have to be with the same puppies each time). Interrupt their play if one seems overwhelmed or one is trying to bully another, give them a break, then let the overwhelmed puppy go and see if they initiate playing again. If they do, let the other puppies go back to playing too. At first, expect you pup to be very nervous and maybe even hide behind you. Let her curiosity get the better of her until she decides to try to play. If you can arrange for two friend's puppies to play together that can also help by letting her watch others play and making her want to join in and overcome her fear. You can also do three second greetings with friends' calm, well behaved dogs. I suggest avoiding meeting potentially aggressive, reactive, or overly excited dogs though because a bad interaction could make things worse. Also, a dog park is not a good place for a puppy to learn all of this. Puppies play differently than older dogs and dog parks are more likely to involve fights. Some places, like Petco and Petfood Express offer free puppy play groups once a week. Call and see if they will let her join at her age - she may be too old but maybe not. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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