Only now he's grown into an adult dog and those play bites aren't quite so funny. In fact, they hurt. Clearly, he isn't being malicious, the tail wags and he seems generally delighted by the game, but you don't find it amusing anymore. You've tried pulling your hand away, shouting, and even resorted to smacking, but all that happens is he gets more excited and ramps up the fun.
What to do?
Ideally, start by teaching bite inhibition to a puppy. This can require you to use techniques such as timeout out or redirecting play onto a toy. An adult dog, with the potential to do harm, is a more serious prospect to deal with. Consider the suggestions below, but also know that for safety's sake it may be necessary to consult a certified behaviorist and have a safe strategy put in place.
First thing in the morning and at the end of the day right at bed time snoopy is very wild and aggressive. While eating a pillow I tried to take it off him he nipped me and a mean growl! What to do?
Hello Shari, First, he probably needs a combination or mental and physical exercise during the evenings, especially if you are gone during the day. Work on teaching him to sit and bring a ball back to you, and then play fetch with some training commands incorporated into it. You can also set up an agility course in your backyard and practice that, or take him for a run and work on "Down", "Heel", "Stay", "Come" and "Watch Me" sporadically throughout the walk by using a long leash reeled up during the run. You want to get his energy out, but you also want to challenge his brain to help him focus and calm down. Both will wear him out and any training will help with respect. The nipping is probably the worse during the evening because he is highly aroused during that time. That means that behaviors that are normally there during the day are simply worse during that time. The aggressive tendencies are probably there all the time, but only obvious when he gets that excited. I suggest teaching him the "Drop It" command using positive reinforcement methods, and then generally putting him on a "No Free Lunch" program for a month or until you see any pushiness and aggressive tendencies improve. A "No Free Lunch" program simply means that he has to work for everything that he gets, including affection, toys, food, walks, and everything else that he enjoys, by doing a simple obedience command for you first, like "Sit". Check out the article that I have linked below. The "Working" method is a "No Free Lunch" program. Follow the steps from that method, but also check out the other two methods found in that article. Those can be helpful as well. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My puppy does bite me but I'm able to tell him sit to curb it. The problem is, I assume my 4 year old chihuahua "trained" Lucky, so he now behaves like her, and he also keeps biting her whenever we walk through the door with her. He also plays tug of war with her leash, and keeps tugging, so we have to keep it off her.
My chihuahua is 8 lbs, Lucky is 32. How do i get him to stop biting her, and stop him from learning the bad behavior from her (e.g. barks at other people at a distance like from the window, but at 3 feet or closer,jumps on them happily)
Hello Kien, For the biting, check out the article that I have linked below and first follow the "Leave It" method. Once Lucky knows "Leave It" and can do it with clothes, then if he continues to bite you after you tell him "Leave It", use the "Pressure" method as a form of discipline. Teaching him "Leave It" first, and then using the "Pressure" method to enforce your command will help him understand what you want from him and prevent him from simply getting more riled up when you use the "Pressure" method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite You can use the "Leave It" command to teach Luck to leave your smaller dog alone too. Also, teach him an "Out" command. To teach him "Out", toss a large treat several feet away from you, while with the same hand, pointing to where you want him to go with your pointer finger. When he runs over to get the food, praise him. As soon as he finishes eating the treat, tell him "Okay" to indicate that he can come back toward you, and encourage him back. Repeat this often until you can point and say "Out" and he will go to where you are pointing before you toss the treat. When he does that, then toss the treat to him when he is in the correct spot, away from you, where you pointed. Next, transition to using it in real life. Whenever he disobeys the "Out" command, then get in front of him and calmly and firmly walk toward him until he backs out of the area you told him to get out of. Continue to block him and stand firm until he gives up trying to go back to where you told him to leave. If he tries to return to the area you told him to leave once you walk back there or away from there, then repeat walking toward him. Expect to repeat it a lot at first. The more consistent you are about enforcing him staying out of somewhere you have told him to leave, the more likely he is to respect your command. Practice in the kitchen, around things he wants to bother like plants, and finally, around other dogs. Keep him out of the area you tell him to leave, until he is told "Okay", so that he will learn to learn and stay out of an area through your consistency. This takes repetition. When he has learned the command through practice, then tell Lucky "Out" when he is bothering your small dog. If he disobeys, then get between them, in front of Lucky and walk toward him firmly to make him back up. Do this until he is several feet away from her. Expect him to try to get past you at first. Be like a soccer goalie and prevent him from getting by until he gives up and leaves. With practice he should learn that you mean it when you say "Out". The only way to get Lucky to stop learning from your small dog is to train both dogs to behave well, to keep them apart, or to constantly work on undoing Lucky's new bad habits and re-teaching him good ones. That last one is very frustrating and hard at times. I recommend working on training both dogs to behave whenever possible, then you can enforce your rules for both dogs when they act out, and both dogs will understand what they are and are not supposed to be doing. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My puppy growls and bites at my ankles, arms, and hands. We have tried lots of things to help her stop. Do you have any suggestions?
Hello Laura, Because certain things tend to work better for some dogs than others I would have to know what you have tried so far in order to say for sure what you should do, but generally I would suggest teaching your puppy a solid "Leave It" command. To teach that command check out this Wag! training article: https://wagwalking.com/training/leave-it Once Ivy knows how to "Leave It" with the treat, then practice "Leave It" with various household objects, including articles of clothing, such as pants, shoes, socks, and gloves. Work on "Leave It" until your puppy is really good at leaving those items alone when you tell her to. When she can do that, then put the clothes on yourself and practice "Leave It" that way. I would suggest you start by putting the glove on your hand and showing her your hand and covering it with your other hand if she tries to bite it, and then rewarding her with a treat when she leaves it alone. When your puppy has developed the self-control and understanding to leave the glove and other items alone while you are wearing them, then use the "Leave It" command in real life whenever your puppy starts to bite you. In addition to teaching the "Leave It" command I would also recommend changing the way you interact with your pup in the biting scenario. Pad yourself up so that the bites will not hurt, and then set up a scenario where your puppy tends to get very excited and bite you, and this time when she tries, then tell her "Aha", which sounds like "Ah Ah", in a firm, calm, and no-nonsense tone of voice, and then walk towards her, or into her if she does not get out of the way, until she either backs away a couple of feet and stops or until she walks away from the area in general. When you first practice this, expect her to rush forward to bite you again when you stop walking. What you are doing is probably new to her and she may react playfully by biting you or dominantly by rushing into your space. Simply remain calm and repeat walking toward her whenever she does it. It is extremely important that you do not yell, shout, act scared, or act angry. Your attitude is simply firm, non-nonsense, and calm. A bit like a drill Sergent. By walking toward her you are claiming that space that she is in, and conveying with your body language that that area is your space and she needs to respect it. It is important to teach the "Leave It" command also though, because that will help your puppy to understand what she should be doing instead of biting you, and then you can reward her for calm behavior instead or biting. The more you reward her for calm behavior and are consistent about her respecting your space, the quicker she can learn what TO do instead, which is be calm or chew on a toy. When she is really wound up, also give her one of her own toys to help her make the right choice. Do know that your pup's behavior is fairly common at this age. She does need your help to learn and to stop doing it, especially now that her jaw strength is increasing, but it is common. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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