How to Train Your Dog to Stop Separation Anxiety

Hello Brittany, You can also try feeding pup their meals in the kennel, ensuring the kennel is only big enough for pup to stand up, turn around and lie down, and not so big pup can go potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid the accident. I would thoroughly clean the kennel with a cleaner that contains enzymes - only enzymes will fully remove the smell to pup's dog nose level, so the smell won't encourage more accidents. Avoid anything containing ammonia on the kennel - since ammonia smells like urine to a dog. Check out the Surprise method from the article I have linked below. If the issue is anxiety, the Surprise method may help. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate If pup still isn't improving, pup probably has an association and habit of going potty in the kennel. If that's the case, you can try using a different type of kennel, like if you are using a wire kennel now, switch to a vari-kennel type. The issue persists, then you will need to avoid the use of the kennel altogether for a while probably. If it comes to that, I would set up an exercise pen in a room you can close off access to (pup will learn to use a potty in this room so you only want pup in there when you put pup in there. A large bathroom or laundry room (without appliances running) are a couple suggestions. In the exercise pen, give pup a non-absorbent bed, like a cot type bed, primopads.com, or k9ballistics crate mats, and a disposable real grass pad (don't use pee pads since you want pup going potty outside most of the time and the fabric of pee pads is more easily confused with the fabric of carpet and rugs). Have pup stay in the exercise pen only when you are gone and at night, or times when you would crate pup normally, and pup go potty outside the majority of the time. To encourage pup to go on the grass pan while in the exercise pen, instead of next to it, you can spray a potty encouraging spray on the pad and reward with a treat the first week whenever you see pup go potty on the grass pad. I would generally reward pottying outside more often though so pup prefers that, and have the grass pad as an option for pup just in case they need to go potty while you are away for longer periods of time. Real grass pad brands - also sold on amazon: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Personally, I would try using the surprise method with a clean, new type of kennel, while also feeding pup all their meals in that new kennel, before moving onto an exercise pen, and I would do all of those things (feeing, new kennel, surprise method) simultaneously right away. If you notice any frequent peeing at times other than when kenneled, or a generally lower ability to hold pup's bladder, I would also check with your vet to rule out an infection or issue. I am not a vet. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Jan. 28, 2022

Hello Sara, I suspect there may be two different things going on here. Without evaluating pup in person I cannot say for sure. First, since the accidents have been increasing I would actually start by having pup evaluated by your vet. Because of pup's age, pup may actually not be able to hold it overnight anymore. Incontinence or a weak bladder are common as dog's age. If pup physically can't hold it overnight, then pup might be forced to have accidents in the crate and that actually could be contributing to more anxiety. I am not a vet though so speak your vet about any medical concerns. If pup is struggling to physicall hold it overnight, then I would switch from pup sleeping in a crate at night, to an exercise pen with a crate attached to the side and the crate door opening into the exercise pen. This setup will provide pup the confined space of the crate for snuggling up to sleep, but allow them to come out into the pen to go potty instead of being forced to go in the crate. The door of the crate being open might also relieve some anxiety, although the exercise pen will be enclosed and pup may still protest that. Inside the exercise pen I would provide disposable real grass pads. I would start by covering the entire floor of the exercise pen with the grass pads. Once pup is used to going potty on that type of surface, then I would slowly remove the extra ones, one by one, until you are down to just one grass pad within a month (or two if pup is slow to adapt to going potty on them). Disposable real grass pad brands: Also on Amazon: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Each grass pad is meant to last several days, not just one use. Picking up any poop if pup poops at night. The second things I suspect is going on is anxiety. It's possible that's the only thing causing the peeing, but since the accidents started before pup was crated also, are consistent, and pup is older, I am concerned that overlooking pup's possible potty needs at this age, will make addressing the anxiety ineffective, if both need to be addressed at the same time, so be sure to look into both. I would start by practicing the Surprise method from the article I have linked below with her in the crate or the exercise pen (depending on what night time set up you determine she needs). Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate The objective with this method is to practice alone time during the day when you are awake enough to work with her, without encouraging her to stay awake in anticipation of treats at night. For some dogs this type of training is all that's needed. With her history I suspect you will need to also do what I will go over below. If she won't get quiet long enough for you to reward during the daytime practice, or does fine during the day but still protests at night, then I would also correct. Check out this video for a general overview of this type of training being done with an anxious dog. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3j882MAYDU This protocol involves teaching the dog to cope with their own anxiety by making their current anxious go-to behaviors unpleasant, giving them an opportunity to stop those behaviors long enough to learn something new, then rewarding the correct, calmer behavior instead. You would combine the corrections for barking with rewards for quietness during daytime practice in pup's confined space. At night, you would only correct and ignore, not give food, but proactive daytime practice is important to help pup understand the nighttime routine ahead of time. This protocol can feel harsh because it involves careful correction, but it tends to work much quicker for many dogs. If you go this route, I suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced using both positive reinforcement and fair correction. Who is extremely knowledgeable about e-collar training, and can follow the protocol listed below, to help you implement the training. Building her independence and structure in her life will still be an important part of this protocol too. You will need an interrupter, a remote electronic collar, e-collar, is often used for this due to isn't wide range of correction levels, remote capability, and additional features like vibration and tone on certain models. You would want a collar with a wide range of levels, NOT a three level shock collar, that's a very different tool I don't recommend using for this. It's important to only use a high quality brand such as E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator or Garmin Delta Sport or Dogtra for this. If you are not comfortable with an e-collar then you can use a vibration collar (the Mini Educator and Garmin should also have a vibration mode) or unscented air remote controlled air spray collar or pet convincer. The Pet convincer is not remote so requires you to return to pup to correct while she is barking though. DO NOT use a citronella collar, buy the additional unscented air canister if the collar comes with the citronella and make sure that you use the unscented air. (Citronella collars are actually very harsh and the smell - punisher lingers a long time so the dog continues to be corrected even after they stop the behavior). The vibration or spray collars are less likely to work than stimulation e-collars though, so you may end up spending more money by not purchasing an e-collar first. The Mini Educator has very low levels of stimulation, that can be tailored specifically to your dog. It also has vibration and beep tones that you can try using first, without having to buy additional tools. Next, set up a camera to spy on her. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear her but she will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Next, put the e-collar on her while she is outside of the crate, standing, and relaxed. Turn it to it's lowest level and push the stimulation button twice. See if she responds to the collar at all (if you use a collar like mini educator, most pup's can't even feel the first few levels out of the 100 levels - you are trying to find the level where she begins to feel it without going too high for her). Look for subtle signs such as turning her head, moving her ears, biting her fur, moving away from where she was, or changing her expression. If she does not respond at all, then go up one level on the collar and when she is standing and relaxed, push the stimulation button again twice. Look for a reaction again. Repeat going up one level at a time and then testing her reaction at that level until she indicates a little bit that she can feel the collar. Here is a video showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cl3V8vYobM A modern, high quality collar will have so many levels that each level should be really subtle and she will likely respond to a low level stimulation. It's uncomfortable but not the harsh shock many people associate with such collars if done right. Once you have found the right stimulation level for her and have it correctly fitted on her, have her wear the collar around with it turned off or not being stimulated for several hours or days if you can (take it off at night to sleep though). Next, set up your camera to spy on her while she is in the crate. Put her into the crate while she is wearing the collar and leave. Spy on her from outside. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear her barking or see her start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, push the stimulation button once. Every time she barks or tries to get out of the crate, stimulate her collar again. If her fur is long, make sure the metal contact points are both touching her skin, and be sure to order longer contact points - many come with a short and long set). If she does not decrease her barking or escape attempts at least a little bit after being stimulated seven times in a row, then increase the stimulation level by one level. She may not feel the stimulation while excited so might need it just slightly higher. Do not go higher than three more levels on the mini-educator, or two more levels on another collar with less levels right now though because she has not learned what she is supposed to be doing yet. For example, if her level is 16 out of 100 levels on the Mini Educator, don't go past level 19 right now. The level you end up using on her on the mini educator collar will probably be low to medium, within the first fifty levels of the one-hundred to one-hundred-and-twenty-five levels, depending on the model you purchase. If it is not, then have a professional evaluate whether you have the correct "working level" for her before proceeding at a higher level. If she continues to ignore the collar, then go up one more stimulation level and if that does not work, make sure that the collar is turned on, fitted correctly, and working. After five minutes to ten minutes, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back inside to the dog, sprinkle several treats into the crate without saying anything, then leave again. Practice correcting her from outside when she barks or tries to escape, going back inside and sprinkling treats when she stays quiet, for up to 30 minutes at first. After 30 minutes -1 hour of practicing this, when she is quiet, go back inside and sprinkle more treats. This time stay inside. Do not speak to her or pay attention to her for ten minutes while you walk around and get stuff done inside. When she is being calm, then you can let her out of the crate. When you let her out, do it the way Jeff does is in this video below. Opening and closing the door until your dog is not rushing out. You want her to be calm when she comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home. That is why you need to ignore her when you get home right away. Also, keep your good byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Continue to put a food stuffed Kong into the crate with her during any daytime crating/penning. Once she is less anxious she will likely enjoy it even if she didn't pay any attention to it in the past, and that will help her to enjoy the space more. First, she may need her anxious state of mind interrupted so that she is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give her a food stuffed Kong in the crate for her to relieve her boredom instead of barking, since she will need something other than barking to do at that point. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Nov. 18, 2021