How to Train a Doberman for Protection

Hello, I recommend working with a professional trainer or joining a Schlutzhund club. The training is generally done using a bite bag, then arm sleeve or body suit, and the dog targets the bag or sleeve, then the person who is wearing the sleeve progressively practices from further and further away from the dog before being given the command. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

April 17, 2023

Hello Joseline, Is pup currently not wanting to go on walks or fearful during walks? Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Some pups don't want to walk because they are afraid of a neighborhood dog in a fence barking, construction workers, funny objects (like Christmas decorations), and things we would never think twice about. If pup isn't familiar with something (no matter how normal it may seem to us) it can feel scary to pup and be a reason why they don't want to leave the safety of the yard. If pup seems nervous or something might be bothering them in the environment, work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they show around the fearful thing. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass that thing as her confidence grows with your help. Simply spending time sitting outside with pup daily in the environment pup is uncertain of - without expecting walking yet - can help the area become less scary or distracting. Next, spend time getting pup used to leash pressure in general if pup's not familiar with coming forward toward you when there is a leash tug. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-your-puppy-to-accept-leash Next, if pup still won't walk, take some small treats or pup's dog food pieces in a small ziplock bag in your pocket or a favorite toy. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat or toss the toy a step forward or let pup give the toy a tug. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question, it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat or play. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. If pup won't leave your yard - your first goal is just to leave the yard. When pup reaches that goal - go home as an additional reward for pup following you - even if a lot of leash tugs were involved. When pup will go to the end of the yard easily then walk to the next house. Gradually increase your walk distance overtime. If you make your goal something huge like the whole neighborhood at first you are less likely to succeed - work up to distance overtime. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, she will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. Pup is most likely nervous or distracted about the environment or not sure how to respond to leash pressure - so don't skip over desensitizing pup to the environment and leash if pup seems at all nervous about those things - freezing and looking like a deer in headlights is one sign of nervousness. Finally, make sure pup isn't in pain or sick, causing her not to want to exercise in any form due to feeling bad. If you have reason to suspect pup is ill or injured, definitely see your vet. (I am not a vet) Many dogs will naturally guard if it's in their genetics and you have laid a good foundation of respect and obedience, once they mature mentally between 1-2 years of age. If pup doesn't, you can also teach pup to bark automatically when someone enters the property or someone approaches you or your family whom you don't know, and to be more watchful in general using reward based training. It's really important to socializes a protection dog as a puppy still. That can seem counter intuitive, but you want a good protection dog to be confident and not fearful of new things, easily adaptable, and to know what's normal human behavior so they can tell when something is not normal and is suspicious. A dog who is suspicious of everything can't be around people and go places with you, so can't stay with you to protect you, and they will react to guests and friends too, so aren't safe around those you want pup to be safe around. You need a dog who can tell the difference. Puppies should be friendly with new people at this age, even a future protection dog. Those protective instincts tend to kick in once pup gets close to mental maturity. For the alerting, first teach pup to bark by teaching the Speak command. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-to-speak Once pup knows the speak command, recruit friends pup doesn't know to step onto your property while pup watches from a window or the fence, or approach you in public. Command speak and reward with a treat when they do. Practice with telling pup to speak each time the person approaches, until pup barks on their own when the person tries to enter or approach without you saying speak first. At that point, have the person come onto the property or approach, wait seven seconds to see if pup will bark on their own, reward if they do, and command speak if they don't. When pup has to be told speak, then reward but give a smaller reward when you tell pup opposed to when pup does it on their own. Practice until pup will bark each time someone enters the property or approaches without needing to be told. Practice with different people you can recruit who pup doesn't know so that pup will learn to do this with anyone who enters the property or approaches and not just with one person. Draw pup's attention to people outside or people on your property, and reward pup when you see them watching someone in general - so that pup will begin watching people and staying more alert as a habit. Pup doesn't have to bark to reward this one - just reward when pup is watching someone and you notice that. You are encouraging her to stay tuned into her surroundings. This will be more applicable as pup ages and is less distracted - at this age pup is going to be distracted and that's okay, reward when you see pup paying attention but don't stress too much about it yet at this age. I also recommend teaching the Quiet command, so that you can tell pup when to stop barking after they alert. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark For anything that would involve bite work, you would need to pursue training with a professional protection trainer who knows how to utilize pup's defense drive, build confidence, utilize rewards like a bite bag and tug, and have the right staff and equipment to practice things like arms holds - this training should only be done with a professionals help and should not encourage fear or true aggression when done correctly. The training is more like teaching pup a task, teaching alertness, obedience, building confidence, and encouraging a natural defense drive - opposed to poorly done training that encourages suspicion and fear to get a bite from the dog. This training is usually started somewhere between 9 months and 2 years, at the discretion of the trainer who evaluates pup. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

June 30, 2022