There are few dogs that can match the mighty size of your Great Pyrenees. But while some people want to come over and say hello, others look slightly on edge and even frightened. Their size also makes them intimidating to other pets too. Unfortunately, your Great Pyrenees recently escaped your yard and caused quite a stir. There is a park close by that children play in and several actually ran away. Now you know your big pooch is harmless, but other people don’t.
Therefore, training your Great Pyrenees to stay in your yard is essential. No longer will you have neighbors and locals coming to your door to complain if he escapes. You also won’t have to panic as soon as you lose sight of him. Finally, increasing your control like this will help you get a handle on any other bad habits they may have.
Fortunately, training your Great Pyrenees to stay in your yard is much easier than many people realize. Firstly, you will need to take a number of steps to deter them from leaving the yard in the first place. You then need to introduce some incentives for keeping them within the confines of your yard. Training will also require making sure all their needs can be met outside.
If your dog is just a puppy then you could see results in just a week or so. However, if they are older, stubborn and with a lifetime of running away under their collar, then you may need a month or two. Get this training right and you can relax in the knowledge that your Great Pyrenees is always safe and secure outside in the yard. It also means you’ll have a fantastically effective guard dog and burglar deterrent.
Before you get to work you will need to get your hands on a few bits. You will need a long leash and some secure fencing.
You will also need some toys, food puzzles and a decent stockpile of treats. Alternatively, you can break their favorite food into small pieces. Try and set aside 10 minutes each day for training. You will, of course, also need constant access to the yard you want to keep them in.
After you have ticked all those boxes, just bring patience and a can-do attitude, then work can start!
My husband and I are going to possibly be getting a 9 week old great Pyrenees puppy. We have a yellow lab that is 10 years old but still very active and in great shape. Our yellow lab has to be the alpha when she comes in contact with other dogs. We are not completely sure how she will get a long with a puppy because she hasn't been around puppies. What is the best way to introduce them and how will we know if it is a good fit or not? Will our lab eventually get a long with the puppy and how will we know? Also we have an invisible fence. Can we train a great Pyrenees to stay in a yard with out a visible fence?
Hello, Check out the passing approach and Walking Together methods from the article I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Try to do this in an area where a lot of other dogs haven't been since puppy hasn't been fully vaccinated yet - a private fenced in yard big enough to walk the dogs around, or just generally an area where other dogs don't frequent, since diseases like Parvo are most often transmitted through infected/unvaccinated dog's feces. Having pups meet on a walk with two people walking them and gradually decreasing distance as both get used to each other and are calm, then go on a walk together can set a great foundation for a calm interaction. If you have any friends with puppies, I highly recommend doing the Passing Approach and Walking Together methods with them on a walk before bringing pup home to see how your dog does with puppies. If you decide to add a puppy, once you add them, crate train pup, teach the dogs commands like Leave It, Out, and Place, and you be the one to make and enforce the house rules, like no hovering around while the other eats, no blocking or threatening each other, no stealing toys, no being pushy for your attention, ect...If your current dog is pushy or doesn't listen to you well right now, work on that first, so that there will be less of that with both dogs competing later, and so that the dogs are more willing to abide by your rules, instead of trying to make and enforce rules for the other dog themselves. When you cannot supervise the dogs together, puppy should either be crated or in an exercise pen with a dog food stuffed chew toy for entertainment and settling purposes. The confinement helps keep them safe from chewing things destructively, helps with potty training, but also ensures the dogs won't fight while getting to know each other still. You can also tether pup to yourself with a hands free leash (you can add a carabiner to a leash handle to make hands free), to ensure pup doesn't go over to your older dog and pester all the time. You want calm, peaceful co-existence. Don't expect a lot of play or being best friends, especially with the age difference. If they can peacefully co-exist, they will likely learn to enjoy each other's company with age, time, and puppy calming down. A middle of the road puppy that's not overly excitable will probably be the easiest for your current dog. Not the most dominant, exuberant pup, but also not the most submissive, timid one - who could be easily bullied. The middle of the road, a little on the submissive side puppy. Opposite sexes tend to do a little better than same sex, but individual personality will make the most difference. I would highly encouraging safely exposing your dog to some puppies, through a careful gradual process - to ensure puppy's safely, and observe your dog's body language when the puppy is in the area briefly and for longer amounts of time. Many older dogs who are well socialized with other dogs are a bit more tolerant of young puppies than they are with older dogs - there is a grace period many dogs will give until puppies are a certain age, but those dogs who lack social skills can lack the patience and impulse required for a puppy, and view the puppy's antics as highly offensive and deserving of an attack. You need to know where your dog falls with that. Your dog may not be super interested in puppies, which is fine, but you want to make sure they are not out right aggressive toward them. Crate Training -Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Out - meaning leave the room/space - good for dealing with pushiness or hovering: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ I also highly recommend feeding both dogs in separate closed crates or rooms, to avoid the potential for food fights, or stress of competing for food which could later lead to food aggression with a more dominant dog. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Doesn't sit or listen to commands unless he knows I have food. Doesn't seem very people-oriented as in he won't always come when called. More importantly he has a tendency to wander and won't stay in the yard
Hello, First, know that four months is an age where puppies tend to get more curious and are less dependent on their people to feel secure - which means that things like Come and automatically following you around decrease if you don't intentionally practice it - what you are experiencing is probably normal for a puppy his age. Check out the Reel In method linked below for teaching Come - that method will help pup learn that coming is not optional, while still helping to motivate pup to want to come. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More come - the premack principle section of this article especially: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ As far as only obeying when there are treats, I recommend phasing the treats out gradually, using life rewards to motivate pup for obeying throughout the day, and potentially switching to a method that works on proofing a command (which is where you practice teaching pup that obedience is not optional and work up to distractions). To phase out treats, practice pup's obedience but only give a treat every third Sit, or for sits that are better than previous sits - like quickly responding - make pup work a bit more for the treat and keep them guessing on when it will come, but don't phase out all together immediately, and do continue to praise pup every time they do what's asked. To use life rewards, begin telling pup to sit before you give them things they want - like sit before petting them, sit before opening the front door for a walk, sit before setting their food bowl down, sit before tossing a toy, ect...What they want becomes the reward and pup also learns to sit in every day life and not just during training sessions. When you tell pup to sit, and you know they heard you and understand, then simply wait until they do, repeating the command only after 5 minutes. At first, you may wait 10 minutes before they finally sit. If you are consistent pup should realize you mean business and get quicker at obeying gradually. If pup really wants what you have, they should be motivated enough - like waiting for that walk or dinner. Finally, there are times when you need to enforce the command gently but more insistently. You will need to do the above things I have mentioned too though. Check out the article linked below. Pressure method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-sit Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Excessive barking. He is extremely hard to get his focus away from running around and just barking. He due to get neutered in two weeks. Hopefully, this may calm him down and decrease the dominance behavior. Thoughts?
Hello Steve, What is pup barking at? It sound like pup needs a combination things. Desensitization to whatever is triggering the barking - some dogs enjoy the activity of barking itself and others are overly sensitive to certain things - leaves, squirrels, people, dogs, ect...and need to be desensitized. Mental and physical exercise. What does pup's mental exercise look like as far as training, games that make them think, or toys that require thought like puzzled toys? Look for activities that stimulate pup's mind and body, like the above suggestions, walks that involve commands like a structured heel, practicing Down and Sit. Desensitization article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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She doesn’t listen to anything!
Hi there! These breeds can be tricky to train. They are very independent dogs who appreciate their solitude. I have worked with quite a few. If she doesn't know her basic commands yet, that is a good place to start. That will teach her that the words coming out of your mouth are expectations, not just blank words. I would start with sit, lay down, stay, and leave it. There are step by step instructions on Google for teaching these commands. If you have any questions on these, please feel free to write in again!
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We do not have a secure fenced yard and want to make our dog stays safely in our yard.
Beautiful! This breed needs lots of exercise a day. Typically, this breed does not stay in the yard - they have the lineage of being a herding dog who roams the mountains - they really need to be fenced. If you are not able to fence your yard, you can try the Boundary Training Method and the Perimeter Method as described here: https://wagwalking.com/training/stay-in-an-unfenced-yard/. But never let Jack out in the yard on his own. Until you are confident that Jack will stay in the yard, keep him on a leash. Take Jack to obedience classes as well where they can teach you all the skills he needs to know to obey. Recall will be essential! Start working on the Reel in Method here: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall/. Good luck!
Hi Jack, I was wondering now that your dog is older how well did he does he do with staying in the yard with an underground fence instead of a visible one? My husband and I are thinking of getting a 9 week old Pyrenees and we do not have a visible fence.
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