Since the early days of cartoons, the dynamic between cats and dogs has always been illustrated as bitter rivals. The dog chases the cat, the cat chases the mouse, and the mouse looks for the cheese. Unfortunately for many pet owners, there is some truth to the fiction. Just like cats are sometimes driven to chase and kill mice, many dogs are also compelled to chase, and sometimes kill, their feline roommates. These are, of course, extreme cases, but preventing your cat from facing unnecessary stress is important. This issue is prominent especially with owners of Huskies, who are well known for having a high prey drive.
A “prey drive” is what compels a Husky to chase small animals in and around the home, which can include birds, mice, insects, squirrels, and even the household cat. This behavior can easily put your cat in danger and should be addressed as soon as it is recognized in any dog, but Huskies especially require plenty of care and training to help catch this behavior early on and prevent an unfortunate incident.
There are many ways to help your Husky get along with your cat, but an important thing to remember is that prey drive is instinctual. This drive to chase and sometimes kill can overpower obedience if the training foundation is not strong enough. The importance of keeping an eye on both your Husky and your cat cannot be stressed enough in these cases and your dog’s success will heavily depend on your consistency and ability to maintain any and all training that you put in place for him.
It’s important to not wait until after your dog has already developed a habit of chasing cats to push for this training, as then the instinct may be too ingrained. However, there are still ways to manage both of your pets even if this is the case. Regardless, start training as early as possible when your Husky is still a puppy and be prepared to maintain this training throughout his lifetime.
Before beginning, ensure that your Husky has basic obedience under his belt. Important commands will be ‘sit’, ‘stay’, and ‘leave it’. Any other commands are a plus, but these can come in handy if you find yourself in a situation where you need to maintain control over your dog.
Be prepared with a leash for more control and some treats for positive reinforcement. Set up barriers between your two animals if necessary or use a soft muzzle on your Husky for short periods of time during training to ensure your cat’s safety. Prevention is a large component when it comes to training a predator around potential prey.
My dog is being nice but will chase the cat if it runs. The cat is the one that attacks when i introduce them to eachother
Hello Luke, Work on teaching Kody a "Leave It" command and practice that command around food, favorite items, movement, and distractions. For example, once Kody can leave food dropped on the floor alone, then put him on a long leash and work on "Leave It" by telling him to "Leave It" when you throw food. Do this on a leash so that you can prevent him from getting the food if he disobeys. When he obeys, reward him with a treat from another location. Never give him the food you told him to leave though. To teach "Leave It" follow one of the methods from the article that I have linked below. You will need to initially just teach him what "Leave It" means but your end goal is to practice it with movement involved to develop his self-control. When he can leave the food, then set up scenarios where the cat runs, Kody is on a long leash, and you tell him to leave the cat alone, and reward him when he does.You may need to purchase a remote vibration collar to interrupt him when he starts to chase once he understands what to do and is able to do it but needs the command to be reinforced. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Hello Kodey’s, we recently adopted a 3 years old female husky that the previous owner, which we know, says had two cats and that the husky (Fidji) had no problems with. It’s only been 11 days since we have her but yet she doesn’t seems to be able to get over her hyper excitment over my cats and continuously wants to interact with them. It comes sometimes that she’s able to get close enough to smell them and in that she’s very calm, but if they try to jump or run away she becomes excited and tries to peruse them for a step or two, never more and she’s not trying to bite them either. At night all is well as she sleeps with us on our bed. Any idea of how to just calm her down when she sees them moving?
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We adopted Mona about 3 weeks ago. I have been working with training her. We have mastered sit and stay she will do as long as there aren't any distractions. Our cat has been confined to our bedroom which has Glass doors out to the back yard. So mona has seen the cat through the doors and has had a few short leashed visits with the cat. The problem is when she sees the cat she is completely focused in the cat. I have tried everything to try and change her focus (treats, toys, cheese, even turkey!) and none of it is as good as the cat. How do I get her to focus on me, or something else when the cat is so enthralling to her!? Thank you for your help!
Hello Lindsay, First of all I would work on getting Mona used to wearing a soft, silicone, basket muzzle in preparation for future up-close introductions. You can do this by giving her lots of treats while you get her used to the muzzle. Give her a treat whenever you show her the muzzle, she sniffs the muzzle, you touch the muzzle to her, and eventually, you put the muzzle on, and then leave the muzzle on. Do this gradually over the next several days or weeks. A basket muzzle will have holes so that you can feed her small treats through while she is wearing it. You can also dip a straw in a bit of peanut butter and poke the straw through the muzzle for her to lick as a reward. If her fixation is really strong, then you need to seek professional help because it might be prey drive. If it is prey drive, then management may be your only option. If the fixation is simply curiosity and playful interest, then spending a lot of time around the cat, with the cat in a safe location, should help the cat to become boring. You probably need to use a form of correction to snap her out of her fixation. A prong collar correction might do the trick, but you want to be careful not to cause a negative association with the cat while doing this. Teach her the "Watch Me" or "Attention" command. When she is fixated on the cat tell her to "Watch Me", if she does not, then give a correction. As soon as her attention is off of the cat and back onto you, then give her another command and heavily reward her to paying attention to you and obeying. You want to correct her for disobedience instead of randomly correcting her in her mind. You also want to reward her for proper behavior at least as much as you correct her. If she does not want the treats that is fine, but continue to praise her and at least offer them. Look into how to properly fit and use a prong collar. A prong collar should be worn high on the neck, without slack in it. The prongs should gently touch the skin all the way around but should not poke into the skin at all unless the dog is being corrected. A correction should not take a lot of force if it is being done correctly. Two fingers on the leash should provide enough force for a good correction in most cases. I would also suggest hiring a trainer for this part too since it can be delicate. The trainer can assess her prey drive also. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My Siberian husky is being so good she just won’t stop focusing on the kids and we have recently just got the kitten is only about five weeks old so I am so scared that my dog will bite the cat and trying to play and hurt her I don’t know what to do I have put them both in separate rooms that one of them out every couple hours switch it up and my dog is just so focused on the cat that I have no idea what to do and I am terrified
Hello Sabrina, I suggest purchasing a tall sturdy baby gate that can be bolted into the doorway. Make sure the slats are small enough that the kitten cannot fit through. While you are there to supervise, let the animals get used to seeing each other through the baby gate, but make sure that it is tall enough that your Husky cannot jump over it, or use two baby gates to block the doorway completely. Whenever your Husky ignores the kitten or acts calm around the kitten, give him treats or pieces of his own kibble. The goal is to do this often enough that the kitten becomes boring, and he learns from you to be calm. Right now the kitten is new and exciting and Zoey does not know that it is a part of the family. When Zoey can ignore the kitten through the baby gate, after at least two weeks, then purchase a soft silicone basket muzzle for Zoey. Introduce the muzzle to Zoey with lots of treats very gradually, until she is comfortable wearing it. While Zoey is on a leash, let the animals very carefully interact. I suggest recruiting an additional person to help protect the kitten while you handle Zoey. Praise and reward Zoey for being nice to the kitten, ignoring the kitten, or being calm around the kitten. Correct roughness gently but firmly also. Use a silicone basket muzzle for training so that Zoey will be more comfortable wearing it and be able to open her mouth inside the muzzle. This will also let you pass her small treats or a straw dipped in soft cheese, peanut butter, or liver paste, through the muzzle's holes to reward her good behavior around the kitten. If she get to the point where she can calmly coexist with the kitten, then you can give her more freedom on the leash, but wait to take the muzzle off until all attempts at biting the kitten are gone. If you feel overwhelmed or things are not going well after a couple of weeks, then look into hiring a private trainer who has experience dealing with this and is well respected. Find someone who will come to your home and evaluate the animals together in person. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog is about 3 years old he knows the commands Sit Stay and Leave it. He is just so excited that he ignores me. He also has a bad habit of marking the house. I am hoping that once he gets fixed the problems will decrease. On top of this now we have a cat who is a bit scared of our dog for good reason. The dog is never aggresive but he wants to chew lick and play with the cat. I'm not sure how to increase his self control or if maybe I should keep training him and hope he'll calm down when he gets fixed. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Amanda, The neutering will likely help some with the marking but I also suggest having him wear a belly band, which is a sling that goes around a dog's waist. You place an absorbent pad in the belly band to catch urine. Dogs mark to leave their scent. A belly band catches the scented urine so that a dog's marking attempts are unsuccessful. Every time that he marks he essentially is rewarded by being able to spread his scent, which makes efforts to stop him difficult. A belly band helps with consistency and is often used by rescue groups for male dogs in dog foster homes. Also, purchase a cleaner that contains enzymes. Look on the bottle. It should say enzyme or enzymatic somewhere. Only enzymes completely break down poop and pee. Any remaining scent (which a dog's sensitive dog can smell) will just encourage the dog to pee in the same spot again. The odor from previous markings needs to be gotten rid of thoroughly. Neutering should break the strong desire to mark and make training easier, but since he has developed a habit of marking now it will probably also require training to get him to stop the habit. For the over-excitement don't just depend on the neutering. It can help but neutering alone fixes very few behavior issues. It tends to make the dog easier to teach and less intense, but once the dog has learned a bad behavior you are still going to have to break that. The neutering will just make it easier to deal with, but won't fix it on it's own. Check out the videos and articles linked below for some good exercises to work on to increase his self-control and focus on you in general. At first, expect many of these exercises to be hard for him. Start slow, be patient, and work at it. Impulse control is a skill that he needs to practice often for it to improve, but it should improve with work. Age will also help a lot, but age alone won't break bad habits, it just calms the dog down a bit - but a calmer doing something you don't want is still a dog doing something you don't want, even if its not quite as bad as before. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo If you encounter any aggression toward you, hire a professional to help you right away. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
Already on day 1 I see a big difference from those training videos. Me and my mom are going to purchase that belt you reccomended as well but so far hes doing great with the lessons and obedience. Thank you so much! For the first time training him isnt exhausting. I will make sure to keep following along with what you sent me :))
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