How to Train a Husky to Not Run Away

Hello Chloe, Isla is probably acting on her natural instinct to wander and explore. Huskies are known for being wanderers so it is likely genetic and not because she does not love you. There are two ways to prevent her wandering. The first is to build a six foot fence to contain her. The other is to hire a local trainer with experience using electric collars to teach firm boundary training. For some dogs, the boundary training will be enough and they will respect staying within that area after the training without any form of additional fence. For others, they will need the additional step of an electric boundary system, such as an electric fence, to enforce that training. I highly recommend hiring a trainer to teach the boundaries with a manual remote collar first though. Rather than going straight to the electric fence. Because high quality remote collars have a minimum of 60 stimulation levels and can be specifically tailored to your dog's own level, the lowest possible level that will get a response can be safely used. This level is typically not even painful but simply uncomfortable and odd feeling to the dog. A good trainer will take the time to find the correct level for your dog and to properly fit the collar high on the neck so that the stimulation is consistent and more fair. When you teach a dog using a remote collar instead of just electric fending you can also use your body language and commands to teach the dog where the boundary is, so that the dog only receives a correction for doing something that it knows not to do, and not just correction that seem random until she learns what to avoid. This is much more fair and gentle to the dog. The dog can control whether or not she gets corrected. Good electric collar brands are: Sports Dog, E-Collar technologies, Garmin, and Dogtra. Do not buy a cheap, poor quality electric collar because they can be dangerous and the levels far too high. Only use the collar under the direction of a trained professional also, because the collars are a powerful tool that can be abused when used wrongly. They are quite effective when paired with clear communication and great technique though, and are one of the only effective means for dealing with strong wandering instincts. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Kamy, At four month of age most puppies do not have the attention span, mental ability, or amount of practice to be able to perform those commands well yet. Some breeds, like Retrievers and Herding breeds will pick obedience up sooner than other more independent breeds like Huskys. Huskys tend to want to think for themselves more. I suggest joining a puppy class and practicing the commands around distractions once she knows what the commands mean. Start slow and gradually work up to harder distractions as she improves. If you have already been through a puppy class, the next step is an intermediate obedience class - where you will get to practice around more distractions. For the come, check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Reel In" method. Some Huskys are very independent and need extra practice with come. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall For the whining check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Quiet" method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Also, work on commands that teach her self-control to help with the whining (anxiousness and excitement). Place is a great command to work on. https://youtu.be/omg5DVPWIWo For the Heel, check out the Turns method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Virona, Every time Hachi leaves the yard he is rewarded with dropped food and fun new smells and locations. The more you reward a behavior, the more the behavior will increase. You cannot expect him to stay in the yard until he has been through complete off-leash training, unless you are there to supervise him and enforce commands 100%. He needs to be taught boundaries using a long leash, then there needs to be rewards for staying in the yard around distractions, like the bus pulling up, and be given very consistent consequence for disobeying and leaving the yard, and no rewards for disobedience - no bus food. To remove rewards for disobedience, he needs to be prevented from getting to the bus stop - this means using a long 20-ft, 30-ft, or 40-ft leash with him and testing his boundary training on the long leash, once you have taught him where the yard boundaries are. When he tries to go across boundary lines when he feels like he is free (the leash is loose so he doesn't feel it very much), then you can give him a command like "Out" - which means get out of an area, and if he disobeys and keeps moving out of the yard, you can reel him in with the long leash that's attached to him. He needs to create a habit of staying in the yard -meaning he is never able to leave it and is never rewarded for bolting out of it, is rewarded for staying in the yard, and this is done over a long period of time - months. If you do all that, then by the time he is fully off-leashed trained, you can take the leash off and he may not even consider leaving the yard as an option. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Cary, You need to hire a professional trainer who is very experienced with fear and uses methods other than just treats to train. You need someone who can evaluate exactly what's going on here and help you learn how to best manage him by being able to try different things with you and him. A combination of confidence building exercises, a lot of positive reinforcement - using real life rewards not just treats (incorporating the things he already likes, like walks, toys, meals, ect...), and a lot of structure - working him through things that make him nervous to calmly build his respect and trust for you - which can mean more structure not less - but done in a calm, consistent way. Look for a trainer who specializes in behavior issues, uses positive reinforcement, structure, focuses on building relationship and respect, is willing to tell a dog no, but also tells dogs when they are doing something right a lot! Dogs with anxiety often need fair consequences and to be told when not to do something, but they need even more emphasis on rewards, walking them through how to do something, calmness, and being told when they are doing something correctly. Avoid an angry trainer, one who has little experience with behavior issues, or who can't tell a dog no, or doesn't often tell a dog yes or good - when they get something right. For teaching come, check out the reel in method and the premack principle from the article linked below. You will probably need a lot more help in general before I would trust pup off leash, but that's a good place to start. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Lori, Because she has killed the chickens I would not depend on the electric fence alone. What you can do is physically fence in a section of your yard (such as an acre) with a wood or similar fence, and bury your electrical fence wire one foot inside your physical fence. Putting the electrical fence inside the physical fence keeps a dog from approaching the wooden fence to even attempt an escape. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Thank you for the question about Ace. He's young and he is a Husky - that means very energetic as you know, requiring a lot of exercise. Huskies need a good run every day. It's best if they are exercised a minimum of one hour per day. Can you walk Ace in the morning and after work? Tips for making him more comfortable in the dark: first, I would ask the vet to check Ace's eyes to confirm that he does not have vision problems. Then once that is ruled out, work with Ace on your days off to try and ease the fear. Walk him when it is almost dark and gradually extend the time in the dusk by minutes per day until he is walking with you in the dark. Bring treats along and occasionally stop and have him sit for a treat, and then continue on. Get Ace a collar with a light; this may make him feel better. As for the jumping and nipping at clothes - if you have not taken Ace to obedience classes, now is the time to start. He will learn the commands needed like sit, down, leave it, and come (good for when he tries to run). Huskies need a lot of stimulation both mentally and physically, so engage him in interacrtive toys where he has to solve a puzzle to get a food reward. As well, play fetch and other outdoor games as much as you can after work to get some of the energy out. Take a look at these as the first step to obedience training: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-husky-to-not-jump-on-you and https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-husky-to-stay-in-the-yard and https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-husky-to-not-bite. Good luck!

Hello Angie, I do suggest working with a trainer to address the biting and overall lack of respect. It will be hard for you to do the other training safely until a good foundation has been laid there. Look for a trainer who specializes in behavior issues like aggression and fear. You may need to desensitize pup to a basket muzzle to be able to practice the other training safely. Muzzle introduction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s Once pup is desensitized to the basket muzzle, check out the article linked below to deal with the jumping. I would have pup wear the basket muzzle during the day and practice your training in short sessions throughout the day and incorporating it into daily life with pup. A basket muzzle will be more comfortable than a standard muzzle and allow pup to open their mouth still, and for you to pass treats through the muzzle for pup. You can also use a straw dipped in peanut butter or liver paste as a reward, poked through the muzzle's holes for them to lick. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump Building respect: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall While working on Come also work on the door bolting itself. Attach a thirty or fifty foot leash to a padded back clip harness that she can't slip out of. Attach the other end of the leash to something sturdy like a stairway banister (the leash is a safety measure). With the leash slack and only there "just in case", act like you are going out the door. Start to open the door and whenever pup tries to go toward it quickly close it. Your goal isn't to hit her but she may get a slight bump if she is especially pushy. Practice opening and closing the door until you can open it and she will wait until it is open further. I would only do this with pup wearing the muzzle. When she is waiting a bit, then get between her and the door and play goalie with the opening. Opening the door wide enough for you to get through, then whenever pup tries to get through, firmly but calmly take several steps toward her to make her back up. By doing this you are communicating that you own that space and asking for her respect. Once you can open the door and she will stay back and not try to rush through, then you can praise and give a treat. You will gradually practice opening the door more and more and blocking her from getting through and walking toward her to make him back up and wait. Take steps toward her until she is at least two feet from the door AND two feet away from you - those two distances often equal her giving you respect (and not simply waiting to get past you when you move), and waiting at the door (instead of trying to bolt). It will feel a lot like you are a soccer goalie, having to be quick and focused. When you can open the door completely and she will wait, take a step through the doorway. If she tries to follow, quickly move toward her, making her backup again quickly. This serves as a natural consequence and encourages her to stay back. If she waits patiently, then praise and go to her to give a treat. Practice at that distance until she will stay back. As she improves, take more and more steps, moving outside, onto your porch and into your yard eventually. Be ready to quickly move toward her as soon as you see her start to move toward the door, to keep her from getting outside (this is why you back-tie the long leash on her, just in case she gets past you, but for training purposes the goal is to keep her from getting out so she isn't rewarded for bolting). When she will stay inside while you stand in the yard, then recruit others to be distractions outside. Expect to stay a bit closer to her when you first add a hard distraction - like another dog walking past, a walker, kids playing in the yard, balls being tossed. Imagine what types of things she may one day see outside and choose distractions that are at least that difficult to practice this around. Expect to practice this as often as you can, along with Come for several weeks, not just a couple of sessions, until you get to where she is completely reliable with distractions like dogs and kids in your yard and the door completely open. Again, I only suggest that you do this with the safety of the basket muzzle, since it sounds like she uses her mouth to get her way, and there is a good chance she will try that when you set boundaries and teach new commands. Always be safe while training. An additional activity you can practice is walking around places like your yard or a field and changing directions frequently without saying anything while she is on a long leash (be careful not to let her pull you over on the long leash. A fenced - in yard is the best place to practice this even with the long leash). Whenever she takes notice of your direction change (at first because the leash finally tugs, but later just because you moved), then give a treat for looking your way or coming over to you - without calling her; this encourages her to choose to pay attention to where you are and associate your presence with good things on her own, so she will want to be with you. For the kennel escapes, check out the link below. https://www.k9ofmine.com/heavy-duty-dog-crates/ There is additional training that can be done to help with the kennel escapes also, but the easiest approach would simply be to purchase a higher quality kennel, because often that resolves the issue in cases that are more related to boredom and not true separation anxiety. Be sure to give her something safe and entertaining to do while in the kennel also, such as a durable, dog-food stuffed black Kong. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! So I am going to give you some tips on teaching recall. It is something you will have to practice consistently for him to be responsive 100% of the time. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

Hello Abraham, First, start working on a reliable Come. Check out the Reel In method from the article linked below. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall If pup has ever shown any form of aggression toward you, including redirecting his aggression meant for strangers at you, then get professional help with this part of the training. Pup may need to be wearing a basket muzzle and have aggression addressed before you can do the following. While working on Come also work on the door bolting itself. Attach a thirty or fifty foot leash to a padded back clip harness that he can't slip out of. Attach the other end of the leash to something sturdy like a stairway banister (the leash is a safety measure). With the leash slack and only there "just in case", act like you are going out the door. Start to open the door and whenever pup tries to go toward it quickly close it. Your goal isn't to hit him but he may get a slight bump if he is especially pushy. Practice opening and closing the door until you can open it and he will wait until it is open further. When he is waiting a bit, then get between him and the door and play goalie with the opening. Opening the door wide enough for you to get through, then whenever pup tries to get through firmly but calmly take several steps toward him to make him back up. By doing this you are communicating that you own that space and asking for his respect. Once you can open the door and he will stay back and not try to rush through, then you can click and toss a treat. You will gradually practice opening the door more and more and blocking him from getting through and walking toward him to make him back up and wait. Take steps toward him until he is at least two feet from the door AND two feet away from you - those two distances often equal him giving you respect (and not simply waiting to get past you when you move), and waiting at the door (instead of trying to bolt). It will feel a lot like you are a soccer goalie, having to be quick and focused. When you can open the door completely and he will wait, take a step through the doorway. If he tries to follow, rush toward him, making him backup again quickly. This serves as a natural consequence and encourages him to stay back. If he waits patiently, then click and toss a treat at his paws. Practice at that distance until he will stay back. As he improves, take more and more steps, moving outside, onto your porch and into your yard eventually. Be ready to keep him from getting outside (this is why you back the long leash on him, just in case he gets past you, but for training purposes the goal is to keep him from getting out so he isn't rewarded for bolting). When he will stay inside while you stand in the yard, then recruit others that he likes to be distractions outside. Expect to stay a bit closer to him when you first add a hard distraction - like another dog walking past, a walker, kids playing in the yard, balls being tossed. Imagine what types of things he may one day see outside and choose distractions that are at least that difficult to practice this around. Expect to practice this as often as you can, along with Come for several weeks, not just a couple of sessions, until you get to where he is completely reliable with distractions like dogs in your yard and the door completely open. If he barking at the cousins because he is demanding that they pet him, or to stop them from trying to pet him? Both are addressed differently. If the barking if due to him not wanting to be petted, I suggest working with a professional trainer for that. Pup will need to be desensitized to being touched by having you feed him a treat each time you practice touching a different area of his body, like ear, collar, paw, side, chest, back, ect...Once pup looks forward to you doing that, then having others pup likes do it, and gradually progressing to people he knows less well as he is doing well. This needs to be done very carefully and under the supervision of a qualified trainer. With a trainer's guidance, you can also have others give pup commands and toss treats while pup is back tied for safety. Finally progressing to having people pup doesn't know well, like trainers from a training group you are working with, practice obedience like heeling walks with pup, to gain more trust and respect around people in general. I don't suggest working on those types of behaviors on your own for safety reasons though. If pup is not aggressive at all, but simply independent, you can have people you know give pup commands like Sit from a distance and toss pup treats, doing this often can help pup associate new people with something good. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello April, Is pup escaping from a fence when you are not around? First, I recommend teaching a reliable Come command. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Come: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Second, assuming pup is staying outside in a physical fence - like a wooden fence, that he is escaping out of through things like digging or fence climbing, I recommend installing an invisible fence two feet inside of your physical fence around the yard. The electric fence should help pup not to even approach the physical fence so that he won't have opportunity to dig or climb it. The invisible in-ground electric fence should only be paired with the real fence and not in place of it, or it will not be effective. There still needs to be a physical barrier so that pup can't just bolt through the electric fence quickly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Tiannah, Is pup escaping from a fence when you are not around? First, I recommend teaching a reliable Come command. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Come: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Second, assuming pup is staying outside in a physical fence - like a wooden fence, that he is escaping out of through things like digging or fence climbing, I recommend installing an invisible fence two feet inside of your physical fence around the yard. The electric fence should help pup not to even approach the physical fence so that he won't have opportunity to dig or climb it. The invisible in-ground electric fence should only be paired with the real fence and not in place of it, or it will not be effective. There still needs to be a physical barrier so that pup can't just bolt through the electric fence quickly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Norma, Is pup escaping from a fence when you are not around? First, I recommend teaching a reliable Come command. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Come: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Second, assuming pup is staying outside in a physical fence - like a wooden fence, that he is escaping out of through things like digging or fence climbing, I recommend installing an invisible fence two feet inside of your physical fence around the yard. The electric fence should help pup not to even approach the physical fence so that he won't have opportunity to dig or climb it. The invisible in-ground electric fence should only be paired with the real fence and not in place of it, or it will not be effective. There still needs to be a physical barrier so that pup can't just bolt through the electric fence quickly. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! If you haven't already, it might be wise to practice his recall in these distracting environments. You may want to pick up a long leash to work on this behavior. Bring lots of treats! You will have to be more exciting than the distraction. Allow him to run off, call him, give him one change to come to you, and then reel him in if he doesn't. Ask for a sit, then reward him for calm, seated behavior. You may have to practice this on repeat for a few weeks, but this is your best bet in getting him to respond to you despite distractions.

Hello, Huskies are very energetic and curious dogs, and I am sure Siri is no different. Make sure when you return from school and work (and before leaving) that Siri has a long, brisk walk. She needs to be stimulated mentally and physically. Chances are if you took her to dog training every week, she'd be a changed dog because she could use her keen mind and satisfy her curiosity about what is so exciting beyond the fence. Some Huskies have a strong prey drive as well and she could be trying to get out to see what there is out there to chase. Work on her recall skills (this can be practiced right in the yard) in the event she does get loose: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-come-back. These methods build on each other and most likely Siri will love these training exercises. As I mentioned, she has a mind that needs to be challenged in order to be content. Keep her very well exercised with lots of stimulating games like fetch, ball, and training. She'll be too tired to want to escape. Good luck!

Hello! I am going to give you information on how to teach recall. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

Hello! I am going to give you information on how to teach recall. Your dog is not too old to begin learning this command. Recall: STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.

Hello Maha, Check out the articles linked below for teaching come. At this age it's normal for puppies to run away to greet others due to the excitement of the outside world. Puppies have to learn through a lot of practice to come and stay when called. That practice has to happen on a long leash, so you can enforce pup calmly having to come even when they are distracted, and practice a lot around various types of distractions until pup can consistently come. Reel In method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall More Come: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden