While Husky pups can be stubborn and do not typically respond well to being yelled at, they are relatively easy to potty train using the same basic methods you would use to train most other breeds. Keep in mind that whether you are teaching your pup to poop outside or anything else, he will respond to positive reinforcement far better as long as you provide clear and concise training instructions for him to follow.
One of the most important things you can do when trying to train your Husky to poop outside is that once you choose a training method, you need to stick to it, no matter how long it takes. Trying to switch training methods will only confuse your fuzzball and make it even harder for him to figure out exactly what it is you want of him.
The task at hand it to teach your dog that it is in no way acceptable for him to poop in the house. At the same time, he must learn that it is okay for him to poop in a particular area of your yard. Keep in mind, going potty in the house would be something akin to doing the same thing in his den in the wild. This is something his mother would have taught him not to do because no dog likes a dirty den.
The training process is really not that difficult, it is mostly about spending the time working with your pooch until he finally understands what you want of him.
What many people do not realize is that you can start training your Husky to poop outside from the minute you pull up in the driveway with him for the first time. At this point, you should put him on a leash and take him over to the spot in the yard that will become his potty. Let him wander around and get used to the area. When he goes potty, be sure to make a fuss over him and give him a nice little soft puppy treat.
Your poop training supply list:
The last two things on your supply list are time and patience--you will need plenty of both in order for your training to succeed. Also, you need some form of enzymatic cleaner to completely eliminate any odors from areas where your pup has accidents.
My dog will not poop outside anymore, she pees outside and is rewarded a treat afterwards. Remi will only poop when her humans are sleeping or at work
Hello Karissa, What has changed recently since she stopped pooping outside? Generally if a dog used to poop outside and no longer will, there is a reason. Any of the following might be going on, preventing her from pooping outside: 1. She is not being given enough time to poop while outside after she pees (dogs tend to take longer to poop and need to be reminded to go again after peeing). 2. She is not being moved around enough to get things moving along. Walking stimulates a dog to poop. When you take her outside on the leash, slowly walk her around your yard, tell her to "Go Potty" and encourage her to sniff the ground. If she starts pulling toward a spot, sniffing a lot, or circling, that is a sign that she is about to go, give her slack in the leash to let her find a spot. 3. She is being free-fed, rather than fed at set times, and her pooping is no longer on a schedule (Most puppies will need to poop around thirty-minutes after eating, and will go potty if you give them enough time, remind them to go potty again after peeing, and walk them around to get things going. 4. She is being given too much freedom in the home. If this is the case, then I suggest crate training and following the "Crate Training" method found in this article: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside 5. She is dehydrated or constipated and pooping is unpleasant for her...In which case she should see the vet and a gradual change in food and offering more water needs to happen. 6. She has been yelled at or harshly punished for pooping or peeing in front of you inside and now refuses to go potty in front of you and ends up holding it all day until you are not around...If this is the case, then no more yelling or harsh punishments for accidents, praise and reward a ton whenever she goes potty outside - including peeing, and when you take her outside, take her on a twenty- or thirty-foot leash and act like you are not looking when she goes potty. After she goes while on the long leash, toss lots of treats over to her. When she gets comfortable going in your presence again, then you can gradually shorten the leash until she will go on a normal six-foot leash for you again. 7. Something scared her while she was outside and she is now afraid of being in your yard. If this is the case, then you will need to spend a lot of time in the yard with her just hanging out, playing games, practicing training, giving her food-stuffed toys to chew on, and generally making the yard relaxing and pleasant for her again to help her get over her fear of being out there...Pooping puts a dog in a vulnerable position so dogs do not like to poop if they don't feel safe. Addressing the underlying cause and following the "Crate Training" method from the article that I have linked above should help. If you don't see any improvement, then look for additional clues for what has changed since she stopped pooping. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hello. So my family just got a 3rd dog. Zoro, a husky puppy. Unfortunately, Zoro has had a rough past year and no one who has had him has really had time to train him. My main question for training Zoro is how can I get him to go to the bathroom outside in a specific area? He will only poop right next to the front door and has been peeing there too. Even when we take him outside to the area he is supposed to use the bathroom in he just stands there until we go inside and then pees and poops next to the front door. Please give me a few ideas on how to train him to go to the bathroom outside.
Hello Erin, It sounds like Zoro would benefit from crate training. Crate Training would help him hold his bladder while inside so that the only opportunity to use the bathroom is outside where you take him. Also, purchase a potty encouraging spray like "Go Here", "Potty Training Sprah", or "Hurry Up!" and spray that on the area that you want him to pee or poop on. The smell will help him go there. Also, when you take him potty tell him to "Go Potty" and give him five treats (or pieces of his own food), one piece at a time. This will help him go potty faster in the future. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Crate Training" method. Since he is older than a puppy, you can take him potty every three to four hours when you are home, and take him back outside every hour after the first three hours if he doesn't go then (he should be taken back inside if he doesn't go potty and put in the crate so he won't have an accident). After he goes potty outside, he can be out of the crate for two hours. After the two hours are up, put him back into the crate until time for his next potty trip.This schedule prevents him from being free when his bladder is full to reduce accidents and help him go potty outside instead. When you aren't home, he should be able to hold his bladder in the crate for six hours. Once he is potty trained and used to holding his bladder he can hold it for eight when absolutely necessary. More frequent potty trips when you are home will help him learn faster though. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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She will let me know when she has to go out to pee or just wants to go outside but will still poop in the house so what do I do?
Hello Joshua, It's great that she will let you know when she needs to pee but she essentially needs to be treated like she still isn't potty trained yet (because she isn't fully with poop). Follow the crate training method from the article linked below, or the Tethering method when you are home. When you have to leave the house, at her age she should be able to hold it 4-5 hours in the crate, but no longer during the day. Potty training: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside When you take her potty, take her on a leash still to keep her focused. Tell her to Go Potty and give one treat for peeing. After she pees always walk her around for several more minutes and tell her to "Go Potty" again. Give five treats, one at a time, if she poops. If she doesn't poop and hasn't gone yet during that part of the day, then put her back into the crate when you come inside or tether her to yourself with the leash - no freedom until she poops. Repeat this when it has been a few hours and she may need to poop again (most puppies poop 2-3 times a day). Most puppies also have to poop within 15-30 minutes of eating, so take her back outside after eating even if she just peed outside. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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He does not want to poop or pee outside we have he hydrated and with food he has a little ranch to run around we got him 4 days ago.
Hello Mayela, Check out the Crate Training method from the article linked below and follow that method carefully. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside The Crate Training - to limit freedom inside to when their bladder is empty, teaching the Go Potty command, rewarding for pottying outside, and the instructions to walk pup around slowly on a leash can all help a puppy learn to go potty while outside. Many puppies get distracted outside so won't go. The above things from the article I have linked can help. If pup seems nervous while outside, I also suggest spending more time with pup outside on a long (non-retractable) training leash. Do fun and relaxing things with pup while out there to help them get over their fear - such as playing Tug of War, Fetch, hiding large treats in the grass, teaching commands or fun tricks using positive reinforcement and lure reward training, and simply hanging out outside for long periods of time by doing things like sitting in the grass and reading a book for an hour while pup chews on a dog food stuffed hollow chew toy -like a kong. Most dogs don't want to go potty if they feel unsafe, so if pup feels nervous, spending time outside to help desensitize him to it can help that aspect in combination with the article I have linked. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My Husky Koba right now I believe he’s doing it on purpose I have no idea. But he will not go potty outside he was doing it but now he just wants to run back inside right when we just got outside and we will be out there for at least 20min and he still wants to go back inside. I tried crate training him but either he pees all over in his cage, breaks out because he does know how to open it. I really have no idea what to do and it’s stressing me out I have a 4 year old pit bull and I thought it would be easier because thinking that a puppy will follow the older dog in the house but he doesn’t do that either.
Hello Terry, First, make sure that the crate is only big enough for pup to stand up, turn around, and lie down, and not so big pup can go potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it - too big and it won't encourage pup to hold it. Also make sure there is nothing absorbent in the crate, including a soft bed or towel. Check out www.primopads.com if you need a non-absorbent option. Know that a pup can generally hold their bladder maximum during the day for the number of months they are in age plus one - meaning no longer than 4-5 hours during the day. Ideally pup should be taken out every 1.5-2 though. If any of those things aren't being done already, do that first, before giving up on the crate. Spy on pup with a camera, such as smart phones or tablets with skype on mute, and see how pup is escaping. Often using carabiners at the corners and door or crate will stop escaping. Second, if using the crate is still an option potty wise, but pup can still escape with the carabiner solution, I suggest switching to a more durable crate pup can't escape from. Check out the article linked below for solutions to crate escapes and more durable options. https://www.k9ofmine.com/heavy-duty-dog-crates/ Third, if he is not already used to a crate expect crying at first. When he cries and you know he doesn't need to go potty yet, ignore the crying. Most dogs will adjust if you are consistent. You can give him a food stuffed hollow chew toy to help her adjust and sprinkle treats into the crate during times of quietness to further encourage quietness. If he continues protesting for long periods of time past five days, you can use a Pet Convincer. Work on teaching "Quiet" by using the Quiet method from the article linked below. Tell him "Quiet" when he barks and cries. If he gets quiet and stays quiet, you can sprinkle a few pieces of dog food into the crate through the wires calmly, then leave again. If he disobeys your command and keep crying or stops but starts again, spray a small puff of air from the Pet convincer at his side through the crate while saying "Ah Ah" calmly, then leave again. If he stays quiet after you leave you can periodically sprinkle treats into the crate to reward him quietness. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Only use the unscented air from the Pet Convincers - don't use citronella, it's too harsh and lingers for too long so can be confusing. Fourth, if pup can be crate trained, then follow the Crate Training method from the article linked below for the potty training aspect - to teach pup to go while outside. Since pup is a little older, you can add 30 minutes to all of the times suggested for potty breaks, freedom between potty trips, and take pup potty every hour if pup doesn't go when you first take them, until they finally go. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Fifth, if you are still struggling after applying the above suggestions, then unfortunately pup may have already lost his desire to hold it while in a confined space. This commonly happens when someone accidentally teaches pup to do so by placing something like a puppy pad on one end of a larger crate or confining a puppy in cage where they are forced to pee through wired flooring - like at a pet store and some shelters. There are rare puppies who simply do it anyway, even though nothing happened to teach that. In those cases you can try feeding pup his meals in there to discourage it but most of the time you simply have to switch potty training methods until he is fully potty trained - at which point you might be able to use a crate for travel again later in life. Check out the Tethering method from the article linked below. Whenever you are home use the Tethering method. Also, set up an exercise pen in a room that you can close off access to later on (pup will learn it's okay to potty in this room so choose accordingly). A guest bathroom, laundry room, or enclosed balcony - once weather is a safe temperature are a few options. Don't set the exercise up in a main area of the house like the den or kitchen. Tethering method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Use the Exercise Pen method from the article linked below, and instead of a litter box like the article mentions, use a real grass pad to stay consistent with teaching pup to potty on grass outside - which is far less confusing than pee pads (Don't use pee pads if the end goal is pottying outside!). Since your goal is pottying outside only use the Exercise Pen at night and when you are not home. When pup will hold his bladder while in the rest of the house consistently and can hold it for as long as you are gone for during the day and overnight, then remove the exercise pen and grass pad completely, close off access to the room that the pen was in so he won't go into there looking to pee, and take him potty outside only. Since he may still chew longer even after potty training, when you leave him alone, be sure to leave him in a safe area that's been puppy proofed, like a cordoned off area of the kitchen with chew toys - until he is out of the destructive chewing phases too - which typically happens between 1-2 years for most dogs with the right training. Exercise Pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Real grass pad brands - Also found on Amazon www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com You can also make your own out of a piece of grass sod cut up and a large, shallow plastic storage container. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I want to know how to train my dog to poop outside she only pees and poop when evreyone sleeps that means she only pees 1x per day... It's just the 2nd day that she was given to me but it brings a lot of discomfort and worries.
I also want to know how to disensitize her from other people and animals it seems to me that she might attack them any time.
I don't know if I should be worried about this but my dog has this tendancy to run fast in once a blue moon that takes me off guard, I can see that she treats me as her alpha but due to their origins I can't help but wonder if theres something I could do about it
Hello, for the peeing and pooping, take a look here and choose a method that you think will work for you: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside. Read the guide through and be sure to follow all suggestions. Take Fleshka outside often, every 30 minutes or so to start - it will be worth the extra effort. Clean up any accidents inside with an enzymatic cleaner. This is the only way to entirely get rid of the odor. You may not smell it, but Fleshka does. As for the attack worries, I would call on a trainer to come and assess your dog. Perhaps this is why she was given away and you are wise to address the problem immediately. The running fast, the alpha tendencies, these are things that a trainer can help you recognize. Getting a session or two with a trainer is well worth the expense for peace of mind and safety. The help will be long-lasting. In the meantime, take a look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-attack-strangers. There are tips for desensitizing. Good luck!
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my puppy is way to used to pooping inside. i times how long it took her to poop after eating her dog food and when i went to take her outside to poop when it was time she didn’t pee or poop outside she waited until we were inside to pee and poop. how do i encourage her to do her business outside instead of in.
Hello Sage, Check out the article I have linked below and the Crate Training method found there. That method will explain some ways to get pup to go potty while outside - like walking pup around slowly on a leash, teaching Go Potty command, using scent, and helping pup stay focused. That method will also cover what to do when pup won't go potty during the 15 minutes you are outside with pup - which is come inside, crate pup for a certain amount of time so that they don't have an accident in the house, then try taking them back outside again when they need to go more - repeating that cycle until they go potty outside. Only giving free time inside when pup's bladder is empty to avoid accidents. Crate Training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My husband and I are having trouble with her separation anxiety and her learning how to use the bathroom outside. Whenever my husband leaves the room she starts crying and when he comes back she poops in her crate. She's only 3 months old and trying to have her understand out commands has also been a hard challenge. We don't want to train her with puppy diapers because we feel like she will get used to using the bathroom in side and we don't want her to do that. I guess my question is, how can we get her to listen to us and have her learn how to go potty outside while letting us know. We give her enough time to use the bathroom outside but as soon as we walk in she goes potty inside.
Hello, First, its important to do a little detection work to ensure the accidents are due only to anxiety, and not the schedule or crate set up also needing to be addressed. Most puppies will cry a lot in the crate for the first two weeks of crate training. That is normal. The pooping can be related to that, but it can also be the schedule or crate set up on top of that. Here are a few things that can cause that: 1. If pup is being crated for longer than 3 hours during the day at this age. 2. If pup has something absorbent in the crate. If there is a soft bed or towel in the crate, remove that and replace it with something non-absorbent like www.primopads.com or k9ballistic non-absorbent crate mats. 3. If the space is too big. The crate should be big enough for pup to turn around, lie down, and stand up, but not so big that they can go potty in one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid the accident. Too big and it won't encourage pup's natural desire to keep a confined space clean. 4. The timing of potty breaks is off. Most puppies will need to go potty 10-45 minutes after eating, not right away. If you are feeding pup, taking them outside immediately, then crating, that timing might lead to pup needing to poop after they have sat in the crate for thirty minutes. Pay attention to pup's internal clock and how soon after eating they tend to need to poop. 5. Pup isn't pooping outside before being crated so they have to go while in the crate. This is common with some pups, who get easily distracted or anxious while outside with everything being new. Check out the crate training method from the article I have linked below and pay attention to the tip on using potty encouraging spray/scent, movement from walking pup around slowly on a leash, teaching Go Potty and rewarding with a treat when pup goes potty, taking pup to a calm location to go potty, and the timing of potty breaks - like mentioned in point 4. If pup doesn't poop outside yet when you know they may need to, I would tether pup to yourself with a hands free leash and watch for signs they need to go, like circling, sniffing, squatting, whining, pawing at you, trying to get away, or farting. When you see those signs, pay attention to the timing of that potty need for future reference, and take pup outside again to try, doing the suggestions from the crate training method to ensure a poop. Repeat this cycle every 30 minutes until pup goes if pup still won't go when you take them. For example, take pup outside for 15 minutes. If pup won't go, go back inside with pup tethered for 30, then try again after 30 minutes, giving pup another 15 minutes to try. The more times pup goes potty outside, the easier it should become to get pup to go right away when you take them, so that you can then crate them after. Crate training method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside 5. Pup has something medical going on that's causing more frequent peeing or pooping. If pup's poops are runny, more than three times a day, or pup can't hold their pee for more than 45 minutes during the day I recommend visiting your vet. Dogs can generally hold it for longer while asleep than in the day so something could still be going on even if nights are fine if there are other indicators or an issue during the day. I am not a vet, so check with your vet about anything medical. 5. Pup has lost their natural desire to keep a confined space clean. This sometimes happens when a pee pad is placed in a crate and pup intentionally taught to go potty in there at some point. It can happen when pup is forced to go potty in the crate too many times due to not being let outside when they truly do have to go potty - like being crated for 8 hours as a puppy when their bladders can't hold it that long without potty breaks. Pet stores and some shelter stays can lead to this because they go potty in their kennel spaces. Some rare dogs simply do it regardless of their past. When loosing their natural desire to keep the space clean is the case, you will need to switch to another potty training method. Check out the Tethering method from the article linked below. Whenever you are home use the Tethering method. Also, set up an exercise pen in a room that you can close off access to later on (pup will learn it's okay to potty in this room so choose accordingly). A guest bathroom, laundry room, or enclosed balcony - once weather is a safe temperature are a few options. Don't set the exercise up in a main area of the house like the den or kitchen. Tethering method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Use the Exercise Pen method from the article linked below, and instead of a litter box like the article mentions, use a real grass pad to stay consistent with teaching pup to potty on grass outside - which is far less confusing than pee pads (Don't use pee pads if the end goal is pottying outside!). Since your goal is pottying outside only use the Exercise Pen at night and when you are not home. When pup will hold her bladder while in the rest of the house consistently and can hold it for as long as you are gone for during the day and overnight, then remove the exercise pen and grass pad completely, close off access to the room that the pen was in so she won't go into there looking to pee, and take her potty outside only. Since she may still chew longer even after potty training, when you leave her alone, be sure to leave her in a safe area that's been puppy proofed, like a cordoned off area of the kitchen with chew toys - until she is out of the destructive chewing phases too - which typically happens between 1-2 years for most dogs with the right training. Exercise Pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Real grass pad brands - Also found on Amazon www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com You can also make your own out of a piece of grass sod cut up and a large, shallow plastic storage container. 6. Another cause of accidents in the crate is separation anxiety. True separation anxiety is generally very obvious and different than the normal adjustment period that accompanies crate training puppies, with several signs, including heavy panting and drooling, no-stop barking, accidents in the crate, trying to escape to the point of injury, shaking and trembling, refusal to eat, and/or vomiting in the crate. Some of these signs should be investigated by your vet to make sure its not something else going on, and if they are happening when you are home and pup isn't crated also, assume a trip to your vet is needed and not that it's anxiety. To address accidents due to separation anxiety, the anxiety itself needs to be resolved. To address separation anxiety: First, pup needs to be crate trained to help build independence. Check out the Surprise method from the article linked below and work on that method to get her used to you being out of the room while she is crated. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate She also needs to build her independence and her confidence by adding a lot of structure and predictability into her routine if you haven't already done so. Things such as making her work for rewards like meals, walks, and pets by obeying a command like Sit first. Working on "Stay" and "Place," commands while you move away or leave the room, and teaching her to remain inside a crate when the door is open as well as closed. Give her something to do in the crate or on Place during the day while you are out of the room (such as a dog food stuffed Kong to chew on). Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ For a young puppy, I would only do the above until pup is around 5 months of age. If the above isn't sufficient, once pup is a bit older there is a more strict protocol that can be followed to address the anxiety. In the meantime, I would follow the protocol for dogs who have lost their natural desire to hold it in a confined space, using the exercise pen method and tethering methods I linked above, while at the same time working on the open door portion of crate training from the surprise method, so that pup is more comfortable by the time they are 5 months and ready to start the separation anxiety protocol below. If doing the above is not sufficient, I recommend doing the below in addition to it, as needed. First, check out this video from SolidK9Training on treating anxiety. It will give a brief over-view of treating separation anxiety more firmly. This trainer can be a bit abrupt with his teaching style with people but is very experienced working with highly aggressive, anxious, and reactive dogs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Make sure you are implementing what he teaches there in other areas of pup's life too. Second, purchase a Pet convincer. DO NOT use a citronella spray, make sure that you use the unscented air. (Citronella collars are actually very harsh and the smell lingers a long time so the dog continues to be corrected even after they stop the behavior). Next, set up a camera to spy on her. If you have two smart devices, like tablets or smartphones, you can Skype or Facetime them to one another with your pup’s end on mute, so that you can see and hear her but she will not hear you. Video baby monitors, video security monitors with portable ways to view the video, GoPros with the phone Live App, or any other camera that will record and transmit the video to something portable that you can watch outside live will work. Set up your camera to spy on her while she is in the crate and leave. Spy on her from outside or another room - whatever normally triggers the barking. Leave however you normally would. As soon as you hear her crying or see her start to try to escape or destroy the crate from the camera, quietly return, spray a small puff of air from the pet convincer at her side through the crate wires, without opening the door, then leave again. Every time she barks or tries to get out of the crate, correct, then leave again. After five minutes to ten minutes of practice, as soon as your dog stays quiet and is not trying to escape for five seconds straight, go back into the room where she is and sprinkle several treats into the crate without saying anything, then leave again. Practice correcting when she barks or tries to escape, going back inside and sprinkling treats when she stays quiet, for up to 30 minutes a session at first. After 30 minutes -1 hour of practicing this, while she is quiet, go back into the room and sprinkle more treats. This time stay in the room. Do not speak to her or pay attention to her for ten minutes while you walk around and get stuff done inside. When she is being calm, then you can let her out of the crate. When you let her out, open and close the door again whenever she tries to rush out, until she will wait in the crate with the door open. Once she is waiting calmly, tell her "Okay" or "Free!" and let her come out. You want her to be calm when she comes out of the crate and to stay calm when you get home - so that she isn't building up those emotions habitually anticipating your arrival home each time. That is why you need to ignore her when you get home right away also. Also, keep your good byes extremely boring and calm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GqzeLzysk Also, for longer alone times give her a food stuffed Kong into the crate/room with her. Once she is less anxious she will likely enjoy it even if she didn't pay any attention to it in the past, and that will help her to enjoy alone time more. First, she may need her anxious state of mind interrupted so that she is open to learning other ways to behave. Once it's interrupted, give her a food stuffed Kong in the crate for her to relieve her boredom instead of barking, since she will need something other than barking to do at that point. Regularly practice her staying on Place and in the open crate while you are home and leave the room as well. Finally, teach pup the Quiet command to make communication with her clearer. Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark When you are home, also make sure you are exercising her both mentally and physically - regularly teaching and practicing obedience commands or tricks, and incorporating those commands into her day is one way to stimulate mentally - such as practicing heel, sit, and down during a walk or game of fetch, having pup do a command before giving her something she wants, and feeding meals in dog food stuffed chew toys or or things like automatic treat dispensing devices like autotrainer or pet tutor, or kong wobbles. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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