How to Train a Pomeranian to Pee Outside

Medium
2-4 Months
General

Introduction

One of the great things about Pomeranians is that they are relatively easy to train. This holds true for potty training just as much as it does for basic behavior and tricks. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that your Pom will react far more readily to consistent training. Your Pom needs to be trained to go potty outside and he relies on you to provide the necessary training. This is where consistency truly pays off; if you keep changing your methods of training, your pup will remain confused and may never master the art of peeing outside. 

Defining Tasks

The job at hand is to teach your Pom that going pee, or for that matter poop, in the house is not acceptable. However, you must have realistic expectations. Your pup is not going to master this vital skill overnight. By rule of thumb, a Pom puppy can hold themselves for "one hour per month of age" up to a maximum of six hours. An adult Pom can hold themselves for up to eight hours. You should never leave your pup for longer than eight hours. 

Getting Started

The first thing you need is a way to restrict your pup's access to the house when you cannot be there to supervise him. The best way to do that is to use a training crate. This will be used when you can't supervise your pup or when you need to be gone for an extended period of time. Beyond this, you will only need a few extra supplies, including a leash and treats. For one method, you'll also need potty training spray, which is available at most pet supply stores.

Of course, along with these, you will need plenty of time and patience to work with your pup until this vital skill has been mastered. 

The Scent Method

ribbon-method-1
Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Make it smell so good
Take a bottle of potty training spray and mark an area of your lawn with it.
Step
2
Set the schedule
Using a timer, set up a schedule of taking your pup out every half hour. Every time it goes off, take your pup directly outside on their leash to the spot so they can go pee.
Step
3
Let him wander
Give your Pom time a few minutes to go pee and when he does, be sure to give him a treat and praise him for doing a good job.
Step
4
Take him in
If he doesn't go, that's fine, take him back in the house and try again in fifteen minutes. Again, if he goes, praise him and give him a treat.
Step
5
Keep working it
The rest is all about continuing to work with your pup until they learn to hold themselves until you take them out.
Recommend training method?

The Timed Method

ribbon-method-2
Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Grab a timer
Grab a kitchen timer and set it to 30 minutes. When it goes off, take your pup out. If he goes potty, give him a treat and praise him.
Step
2
Extend the time
Once he has mastered waiting for half an hour to go potty, it is time to start adding more time to the clock.
Step
3
Be sure to treat
Be sure that each time your pup goes pee or poop outside, be sure to praise them and give them treats.
Step
4
Keep a close eye on your pup
While your pup may be starting to get the idea, you need to keep a very close eye on them while they are in your house. At the first indication they need to go outside, be sure to take them straight outside so they can go, regardless of the timer. When they go, be sure to praise and reward them.
Step
5
If he has an accident
If your pup happens to have an accident during the training process, don’t scold them for it. Unless you happen to catch them in the act, they will have no idea why you are mad at them. Simply use an enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of the mess and keep working on their training until this is no longer necessary.
Recommend training method?

The Leash Method

ribbon-method-3
Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Choose a location
Choose a location in your yard for your pup to go potty.
Step
2
Choose your cue
Choose a cue word such as "Outside" or "Potty" and use it every time you take your pup outside to go pee.
Step
3
Grab the leash
Pop your pup on the leash so he knows it's time to head outside.
Step
4
Give them the cue
Give your pup the cue and take him outside to go potty. When he goes, be sure to praise and reward him.
Step
5
Routines are important
Routines are very important to your pup. Set a schedule of taking them to go out every half hour at first and take them out on schedule. Again, when they go, praise them and give them a treat.
Step
6
Build their confidence
The rest is all about repetition, building his confidence, and his endurance. Take your time and your pup will soon learn where he is allowed to go potty.
Recommend training method?

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Butch
Pomeranian
3 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Butch
Pomeranian
3 Months

How to train my dog to poop and pee outside the house?
He always wanted someone with him. When he will be left alone.
What could I do to make him stay where I want he would be stay in?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
945 Dog owners recommended

Hello Kirbelyn, For the potty training, check out the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside To address pup constantly wanting to be with you, also check out the Surprise method from the article I have linked below for crate desensitizing. I would teach Place and Down Stay as well, to help pup build a bit of independence and learn to cope without you. It is normal for puppies to follow you around at this age. Often they do less of that as they get a bit older and more curious about the world around them, and as you practice things like Place, Crate training, and Down-Stay. Surprise method: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O75dyWITP1s Down-Stay: https://www.thelabradorsite.com/train-your-labrador-to-lie-down-and-stay/ Quiet method for teaching Quiet command - if you need that too if pup is barking: Quiet method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Snoffii
Pomeranian
1 Month
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Snoffii
Pomeranian
1 Month

how to train for potty & peee

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
945 Dog owners recommended

Hello Nitin, At this age I recommend using the Exercise Pen method from the article I have linked below. At one month old pup won't have good enough control of their bladder for true outside potty training. At seven to eight weeks of age you can also switch to the crate training method from the second article I have linked below. If you plan to teach pup to go potty outside once older, instead of inside long term, I would use a disposable real grass pad instead of doggie litter box or pee pad, to make the transition easier later. I would also keep the exercise pen up until time to switch to crate training, instead of phasing it away, letting pup out to play with you right after they have gone potty on the pad in the crate to keep things clean, and returning pup back to the crate for a nap and pee after playing. Exercise pen method - to use at this age: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Disposable real grass pad brands - also found on Amazon normally. Make sure it's the real grass pads and not fake grass. www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com Crate Training method for potty training once pup is about 2 months old: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Pom Pom
Pomeranian
1 Year
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Pom Pom
Pomeranian
1 Year

We got Pom Pom when she was about 16 wks. old. She pottied anywhere/everywhere.I immediately tried to train her to use pee pads, but she would have nothing to do w/ them.It was winter w/ snow on the ground, so I made a place for her to go on the back porch - she seldom used it. So, I let her out into the yard & the 1st thing she did was squat to pee, in the snow! She already knew that it was proper for her to go outside to do that! So I got her a tiny doggie door, so she could go out whenever she wanted. I have 2 med. sized male dogs & she loves to be out to play w/ them. Problem solved? NOT! She is now almost a yr. old & has started leaving puddles (usually in evening) wherever I have vinyl flooring. I've tried blotting it up w/a pee pad then leaving it there hoping she'll make the connection. Nope! Once in a while, she'll go upstairs & pee/poop on the new carpet.No more than once a day tho. She's incredibly smart, so what IS going on in her head to cause her to behave that way???

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
240 Dog owners recommended

Hello. I am going to send you a bunch of information on potty training. You will basically have to start completely over with potty training as if your dog were a puppy again. When pet owners do this, sometimes it can take only a week, other times it can take much longer. But she WILL get it. This information is written for puppies, but the procedure is exactly the same for training an adult dog who doesn't quite know where to go potty. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Question
biscuit
Pomeranian
7 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
biscuit
Pomeranian
7 Months

how to teach my dog to peen outside? is there a schedule ? should i keep her in her crate and take her outside every 2 hours ?

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
945 Dog owners recommended

Hello Iana, I do recommend crating and taking outside every two hours. I find that process tends to work best for many dogs, especially older puppies. Check out the article I have linked below for more details on exactly how to do that. Follow the crate Training method or a combination of the crate Training and Tethering methods (starting with just the crate training method until pup starts to catch on). Since pup is older, you can take pup potty every two hours, instead of one hour, repeating the potty trip every hour after that if they don't go potty when you first take them, crating pup between potty trips until pup goes potty outside again, then gets more freedom for a while while their bladder is empty. Crate Training and Tethering methods for potty training: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Midnight
Pomeranian
16 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Midnight
Pomeranian
16 Weeks

she keeps relieving (going to the bathroom) in my house, and she also has a problem with biting and she barks at every dog,person, or even ball. what should I do? cause i'm clueless at the moment

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
240 Dog owners recommended

Hello! I am sending you quite a bit of information on potty and crate training just in case you want to use the crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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