Sammy is not impressed, at first she would get up and walk away, but lately, she has started growling at Mack. Sammy's owner has taken a lot of time to ensure both dogs get lots of attention and Sammy does not seem to be jealous, as much as she seems to be in need of peace and quiet when she wants it. Before this escalates any further Sammy’s owner needs to teach her new puppy to respect her older dog.
Often, allowing an older dog to establish respect themselves can resolve the issue, however, if your older dog is unable to exert himself or the new puppy is particularly boisterous, you may need to step in and train your puppy appropriate behavior with your older dog. Often, draining your new pup's energy by providing lots of play and exercise can help to control his behavior around your senior dog. Limiting access between the dogs with crates or barriers can also help establish boundaries. You should not punish your puppy for exhibiting boisterous, playful behavior--this is natural for puppies and punishing natural behaviors will only confuse your new puppy and create anxiety. Instead, limiting, correcting and redirecting playful behavior around your older dog, to establish personal space, boundaries, and respect will be more effective and provide a peaceful, comfortable environment for both your old friend and your new one
My dog jack is 8 (almost 9) and we are thinking of getting another dog. He has always lived with another dog until about a year ago. The dog we have fallen in love with is a rescue bull breed cross. He is 8 months old and upon meeting jack, he was trying to get him to play by jumping on him. Eddie (the puppy) is quite large and jack is snapping at him trying to get him to stop. How can we resolve this so we can feel safe introducing them offlead at some point?
Hello Keira, In this scenario the puppy is actually more than half the problem. When a dog jumps on a dog that has not indicated that it wants to play, the jumper is being rude and not responding to canine social cues. Be an advocate for your older dog and work on boundaries with the puppy so that Jack feels like he can relax around the puppy. Don't necessarily expect Jack to play with the puppy. He may never want to play with him and that's okay as long as they can peacefully coexist and simply enjoy each other's company. Work on obedience and structure with both dogs to help them listen and respect you and not compete with each other. If both dogs respect you and you make and enforce the rules then they don't have to - which can help prevent fights. Teach both dogs (especially the puppy) "Out" (which means leave the area). Use the command to let the puppy know when he should get out of Jack's space. Get in front of the puppy, point to where he should go, tell him "Out" and firmly but calmly walk toward him, making him back out of the area. Block him from going back until he gives up trying to get back there or leaves the area completely. When he gives up, return to the area yourself to see if he follows you. If he follows you, tell him "Ah Ah" and walk him out of the area again. Repeat this until he stops following you back in. When you want him to come back, tell him "Okay!". Doing out communicates that you want a dog to respect a certain space that belongs to you. It also tells them that a certain thing belongs to you and they should respect that also (a child or another dog typically). You can use "Out" for Jack too when he is behaving poorly toward the puppy. When Jack is being tolerant, give him treats (not right next to the puppy though because you want to avoid competing for food). When the puppy enters the room, feed Jack treats. When the puppy leaves the room, all treats stop - you want the treats to be associated with the puppy. Supervise the dogs and make sure they both have their own space. Crate training at least the puppy will help with that a lot. I also suggest teaching both dogs a good Place command so that they can simply get used to being in the same room with each other but be relaxing. Place can also help with self-control (for puppy), respect and calmness. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo#dialog Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We added two 11 week old litter mates to the house 5 weeks ago. They are showing pack behavior toward the older dog who has become fearful and aggressive toward them. Help.
Hello Diane, I suggest that you hire a professional trainer who uses both fair corrections and positive reinforcement to come to your home. The new puppies likely generally need more structure and boundaries. All dogs need to look to you to make and enforce the rules, so that none of them will bully another dog. Right now they are likely vying for who is going to be in charge, and if the older dog is generally more timid personality-wise, then the puppies are probably taking advantage of that and finding it fun to pester the older dog. Puppies also just tend to be obsessed with older dogs and have not learned doggie manners yet. Following an older dog around and constantly trying to wrestle and play is normal - especially when that dog won't pay attention to them. That doesn't mean that it should continue but they are probably doing what comes naturally to them when there is a lack of boundaries to teach them otherwise. They need to be taught those manners by you so that your older dog doesn't have to use aggression to teach them. Once you are enforcing the rules, rewarding your older dog for being tolerant and calm, and giving the dogs more time apart, your older dog will likely begin to relax more. If not, you need someone to help you in person because the trainer will need to evaluate the dog's body language and interactions to see what's really going on. To start, crate train the puppies if you have not already done so. They need a calm place by themselves where they can chew on food-stuffed chew toys and relax. This is important. It is also important that they spend time alone to teach them to self-entertain and self-soothe, rather than be completely reliant on you or the other puppy's presence. Fill a hollow chew toy like a Kong with dog food that has been soaked in water until mushy, and mixed the food with a bit of liver paste, cheese or peanut butter (Avoid Xylitol sweetener -- it's toxic!). You can make several of these toys ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze them. They can even eat all of their daily food out of the Kongs and as treat rewards for obedience, and you do not have to use food bowls at all at this age. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Decide what your household rules for all dogs will be. Some examples are: "No pestering a dog that wants to be left alone", "No stealing another dog's food or toys", "No pushing another dog out of the way - usually to get food or attention", "No blocking another dog from getting to a space", "No claiming you by standing on your lap and acting aggressively or pushy towards another person or dog", "No acting possessive of furniture and keeping another dog from coming over", "No acting aggressive toward another dog or person", "No barking at another dog when he wants to be left alone". When one dog breaks a rule, you be the one to handle it so that the other dog does not have to. For example, if one dog steals another dog's toy, take the toy away from the thief, return it to the dog that originally had it, and make the thief leave the room. If one dog is trying to sneak over to another dog's food while he is eating (Do not free feed the dogs! - all food should be removed after fifteen minutes unless a dog is eating in the crate where another dog cannot bother him), then get in front of the sneaky thief, tell him "Out", point to where the dog should go, and walk toward him until he leaves the area. If he does not move when you say "Out" and start walking, don't be afraid to move him with your legs by walking toward him. Leaving is not optional for the dog. Shuffle your feet rather than lift them if you end up having to walk into him, so that you do not step on him while moving. When he is out of the area, block him from going back over to the other dog -- pretend like you are a soccer goalie or a brick wall. When the dog stops trying to get past you, return to the dog that's eating to see if the thief tries to follow you back. If he follows you, then repeat walking toward him until he leaves again. Repeat this process until you can stand next to the dog that's eating or leave the room, and the thief stays out of that area - away from the eating dog. When you are ready for the dog to go back into the area you told him to leave, then tell him "Okay!" in an excited tone of voice. You can use the "Out" command to teach the dogs to respect each other's space in other ways too. When one dog is bothering another dog, tell the problematic dog "Out!" in a firm but calm tone of voice, and enforce it like you did with the eating dog above. I also suggest teaching the puppies "Place" and practicing them each having a visible, consistent "Place" spot that they can go to and lay on with a toy and stay there. Finally, don't expect the older dog to play with the puppies. The goal here is peaceful co-existence. When the puppies are older and there have been more boundaries and less anxiety, the older dog might decide that she wants to play, but if that never happens and the dogs can peacefully hang around one another, that is still great. Older dogs and puppies play very differently, so not all older dogs will want to play with puppies. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My method of attempting to get Lucky to stop bugging my chihuahua is when he does bark, I rush down and block him from the chihuahua. He now barks not only out the window (I have made some progress with him barking out the window), but he barks aimlessly, as in, he doesn't bark at anything, just makes a bark sound.
Is my method of blocking him from my chihuahua effective? I would like to try a positive reinforcement way, and a way that I can train him in advance instead of when he actually barks for my chihuahua.
I can't tell if this is boredom barking or barking for another dogs' attention, because either way, my chihuahua usually rushes down if she hears ANY dog bark. And talking about that,
I brought my chihuahua to the local dog park, and as expected, dogs started barking back and forth. If I could get my chihuahua to get along with other dogs and people (not the jumpy type like Lucky), I would be so grateful to have her at least keep her calm around strangers and other dogs, especially Lucky.
Hello Kien, It sounds like Lucky is bored and making up games to get attention. Since he's not allowed to bark out the window he is simply doing the same thing in a different location to get her attention. I suggest teaching him the "Quiet" command, rewarding him whenever you catch him playing calmly and nicely (and being quiet), and giving him something else to do besides bark. An AutoTrainer or Pet Tutor could be a good investment for him. It works by releasing a treat when it senses he is calm or quiet for a certain amount of time. You can also feed him his meals in food stuffed chew toys like Kong's, Kong wobble toys, or puzzle toys. Finally, you can correct the barking with a remote training device and collar like I mentioned in you last question about barking at dinner. To get Sweet Pea used to other dogs will be a long process honestly but it is doable if you are willing to put in a lot of work. Socialization is typically done while dogs are still puppies and haven't developed fear. It would involve taking her places with other dogs, rewarding her with her favorite treats, toys, and games whenever she sees another dog and stays calm (while the dog is far enough away for her to stay calm). I would also suggest practing a lot of obedience with her with dogs in the distance (such as heel, sit, watch me, and come) and rewarding her for obedience and focus. The training will keep her mind on you and get her in a following made with you so that she can trust you more and relax more. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We have just got a dog from a shelter to go with our 9 year old dog. Everything is fine apart from she has very bad separation anxiety. We haven’t left her alone for more than 5 minutes ( we have only had her for 3 days) because she cries and claws st the stair gate if we go upstairs. We can’t even go into another room without her following- she is never settled.
We plan on crate training her, Is this the right thing to do? Also, what else can we do to help stop the separation anxiety?
Thank you, keira
Hello keira, Crate training is usually very good for dogs with separation anxiety. It can be harder on the person to watch the dog work through it, but dogs with separation anxiety need opportunities to practice independence and self-soothing. So crate training if done correctly can be great. Check out the article that I have linked below to introduce the crate. I typically recommend the "Surprise" method but you can use all three methods at the same time. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate You will also want to work on commands that require her to stay, be further from you, and be calmer. "Place" and teaching a dog to stay in a crate with the crate door open (once you have introduced the crate) are also good exercises for this: Place command: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn5HTiryZN8 Work up to having Pixie stay on Place or in the crate for up to an hour. Start with shorter amount of time and gradually work up to longer, then work up to her staying there even when you walk out of the room and around the house. Outside, practicing Down and Sit Stays from a distance using a long leash is also great. In addition to those things walks should be pretty structured, where she is heeling by your side and not ranging ahead or distracted. Dogs with anxiety tend to do well with structure and boundaries and need time to practice independence. Those types of exercises give them opportunities to work through their anxiety while you are guiding them, and eventually build their confidence. At first, it can seem like the anxiety is worse because they are having to deal with their anxiety, but as they work through it, you should see more improvement little by little. I suggest starting with the above training. Those things might be all that you need to change her state of mind over the next few months. If you find she is still having a hard time, check out the link below for more intensive training. https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2013/02/21/separation-anxiety-im-not-seeing-it-at-my-place SolidK9Training also has a few videos on YouTube that touch on Separation Anxiety too. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My daughter just brought home a one year old lab who will not leave our cocker alone, she wants to play constantly, we have balls, bones, chew toys, we walk them, play in the yard she never stops he’s ( our cocker ) is getting frustrated and snapping, my daughters lad wants whatever he has even if the both have the same thing. I want to fix this before somepuppy gets hurt.
Hello Kim, The lab needs to be taught "Leave It" and "Out" commands. Check out the "Leave It" method from the article linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite She also needs a lot of structure and boundaries. Learning a Place command, crate manners, a structured heel, and other things that build self-control. You cannot change personality but you can stimulate her mentally and teach better self-control to help her focus her energy on the things you want her to focus on instead. The pestering is normal. Young dogs have to be taught to be respectful. That doesn't mean it's okay, just not surprising. When she tries to pester Patches you can also enforce the leave it command for Patches - if she continues biting or pestering her after being told Leave It (which you must teach first), you can get between her and the Patches (carefully, if there is aggression keep a drag leash on her and use that to redirect), tell her "Out", and firmly walking toward her until she backs all the way out of the room. Block her from getting back to them, then when she calms down or leaves, go back to what you were doing before. If she goes back over to them again without being told "Okay!" first, then repeat walking toward her until she is out of the area, while saying "Out" in a calm and firm tone of voice. Repeat this until she gets realizes you mean business and leaves Patches alone. At first, expect to have to repeat this a lot. The more consistent you are, the sooner she should realize you mean what you say. Here are some commands to practice to increase her respect for the humans in the household and her self-control. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo When there are two dogs in a household together it is very important for both dogs to trust and respect the owner so that the owner is the one making and enforcing house rules for both dogs - and not the dogs trying to do that for each other, which could lead to fights. Advocate for your older dog by working on self-control and commands that teach the lab to leave it and get Out of the area, so that your Cocker does not feel the need to defend herself. When both dogs are being tolerant (Patches) and calm (the lab) remember to calmly reward both with a treat or calm praise. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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When we take Maverick to a puppy play session to socialise with other puppies he either tries humping them or just jumps all over them. Even the owner has said he's quite boisterous. When it happened last Saturday we removed him but he goes straight back to do the same thing. We call him away get him to sit, lay down, give paw to distract him but he will still go back and do it again.
Hello Sherry, He likely lacks social manners, which is even more reason why he needs the puppy play. It will take a lot of repetition for him to learn self-control and to connect that play time ends with his roughness. The average dog takes thirty repetitions before they learn something new and puppies have even less attention. Continue interrupting his play and refocusing his attention, then letting him go back to playing only when he is calm. Also, when you interrupt his play use the "Out" command (which means leave the area) and use your body to herd him out of the area so that he learns spacial awareness also. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ At first expect him to get excited when you herd him away from the other puppy after saying Out. Stay firm, calm and persistent until he calms down and complies, blocking him from going back until he calms down and looks at you or away from the other puppies. It will take repetition for him to realize what you are doing (wanting him away from the other puppy) and why it is happening (he was too rough). When he is calm, if the other puppy wants to play, let him back by telling him "Okay" or "Go Play". Many puppies or dogs will hump as a way to pester another dog into playing. It is simply over excitement and poor social skills most of the time at this age. The puppy is also probably a bit dominant and pushy too, so structure and consistent rules for this pup while growing up will be important. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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How do i know when to intervene playtime between my 11 week old puppy and 9 year old dog? Like how do I know the older dog has had enough and when it has started to become aggressive and not just playing?
Hello Luke, Sometimes an older dog's body language will start to show it. The older dog will become less patient, a bit rougher, or try to get away from the puppy. When it doubt, remove the puppy, let both dogs calm down, then tell your older og "Okay" and invite him to play with your puppy again. If he wants to continue playing, great, you can let them. If he doesn't want to initiate playing, then make the puppy give him space. He has had enough for now. The key is to watch the older dog's body language and see if he wants to initiate playing, opposed to puppy starting it when in doubt. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our female 9 week puppy is trying to bite at our male 3 year old dogs face. We are very worried that the older dog will lash out and hurt her when she gets a hold of him. They both play rough and our older dog is showing some dominant behaviors but always is the one to initiate play. We don't want either one to get hurt badly so how do we stop the puppy from biting at the face?
Hello Tillie, First, I suggest joining a puppy kindergarten class that includes time for moderated off leash play, where the trainer has owners interrupt the play when puppies start to get too rough or overwhelmed. Puppies play with each other differently than adult dogs and playing with puppies helps a pup learn to be gentler with their mouth because of the feedback they get from other puppies ("If you bite me too hard I yelp and stop playing" for instance). In addition to bite inhibition (controlling the pressure of a bite) a puppy class provides socialization with people, obedience, and new experiences - all of which are vital for puppies. Look for a class that requires all of the pups to be up to date with vaccines for their age, cleans the floor with a cleaner that kills parvo and distemper right before class, and prevents other potentially -un-vaccinated dogs from entering the puppy area once things have been cleaned. Carry your puppy into the cleaned area to avoid the ground where unvaccinated dogs may have been, and when you take her potty, choose an area where other dogs are not very likely to have gone - even if that means walking a good bit away from the building. Taking these measures helps minimize the risk of puppies catching diseases and allows you to join a class earlier, before the key socialization period ends at 12-16 weeks of age. Check out the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's view on puppy socialization and age precautions. https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Puppy_Socialization_Position_Statement_Download_-_10-3-14.pdf Check out the article linked below and follow the "Bite Inhibition" to further help puppy learn to be gentler with her mouth at home: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Finally, work on teaching an "Out" command to both dogs (which means get away from the area you are in). Use this command to enforce Tillie leaving your older dog alone when things get too rough, and your older dog leaving Tillie alone when needed. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ If you don't trust your older dog to be patient with the puppy, then do not let them play together. Tillie can get the socialization she needs from playing with other puppies. If your older dog is likely to lash out, it would be better for her to learn to simply be calm around your older dog, and for your older dog to do the same. Work on Out with both dogs, as well as Place, and stay to redirect them when they start to get rough. Give them structured things to do together like heeling on the leash and practicing obedience commands together. Dogs in the same household do not have to play together, they can simply learn to hang out and be calm when playing together may create other issues for those particular dogs - you don't want a dog that is likely to lash out at a puppy to teach the puppy through aggression to be unsocial with others also - that is how poor social skills get passed on to dogs in the same household. When you cannot supervise the dogs together, have Tillie spend time in a crate or exercise pen with a food stuffed Kong and other fun and safe toys, so that she cannot pester your older dog without you there to redirect and help them learn. As she gets older, calms down, and learns the house rules, you can give her more freedom if the dogs are doing well together. Confinement when you cannot supervise is also important for potty training and preventing destructive chewing - which can actually get worse again around 5-7 months due to jaws developing at that time. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We have an 8 yr old dog and we brought home a puppy who is now 13 weeks old. My older dog Jewel can’t stand it when the puppy Bear jump and bites her ears, tail and face. The problem is that Jewel will very rarely growl to correct the behaviour so Bear will just keep going until I have to remove him. We have done the “trade” method where we trade him a chew toy to distract and we make a weird noise to get his attention however this isn’t working. Do you have any suggestions? I feel really bad for our older dog.
Hello Cassandra, I suggest teaching an "Out" command - which means leave the area. If she doesn't listen to your Out command when you use it, after you have spent time teaching it so that she understands, then use your body language to enforce the command by getting between the puppy and your older dog and calmly but firmly blocking your puppy from behind able to get to your older dog, then walking toward your puppy until she backs out of the area where your older dog is. Expect to have to do this several times in a row for her to give up and respect boundaries whenever you do this - at first. The more consistent you are about doing it and enforcing your Out command, the better her listening skills should improve with that command. By using your body language this way you are essentially "claiming" your older dog and telling her to respect his space even if he doesn't do that himself. Be patient and persistent, this will take time and practice to teach, but is a very useful command to have. Check out the article linked below for steps to teach Out and for how to enforce Out to improve pushy behavior Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have an older dog, Maggie, who will play with Max, but they roughhouse. Max is the breed type that fights and won’t stop. Maggie tries to get him to stop but he won’t. It’s gotten to the point where we are afraid Maggie might hurt him. She’s tried to hurt other dogs before, so this wouldn’t result in a good thing. When we try to get Max away from Maggie, he will consistently lunge at her and try to play or fight. I usually try to make him sit down, but when I did that the last time, he tried to bite me. He’s also aggressive and will bite me and try to attack me. What should I do?
Hello Allison, You need to hire a trainer to help you train Max to a high level of obedience and create more structure in his life. He should learn to calmly coexist with Maggie and never to play with her. He needs to learn a solid, long, high distraction Place command, a Leave It command, an Out command, and generally have a lot more structure in his life. Since you said he acts aggressively toward you, the issue with Maggie is just one symptom of his need for more boundaries, respect, structure, and obedience. I highly suggest hiring a trainer who is very experienced with driven breeds, aggression, large breeds, strong-willed dogs, who comes well recommended, uses positive reinforcement and fair corrections both. Max needs to work for everything he gets in life for a while and essentially be in doggie boot camp, heeling, staying on place, doing commands before he gets anything he wants, learning impulse control and calmness. This needs to be done with the help of a trainer to avoid you being bitten. You may also want to get him used to wearing a soft silicone basket muzzle while you are working on the training yourself. Out: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Working method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you Dog Training Do’s https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2016/09/08/the-ten-commandments-of-dog-training-and-ownership-do-2 Again, hire a trainer to guide you through the training and get Max used to wearing a basket muzzle (he will still be able to open his mouth with a basket type) if he has shown aggression toward you. You can use his daily kibble as rewards for tolerating the muzzle. To introduce the muzzle, first place it on the ground and sprinkle his meal kibble around it. Do this until he is comfortable eating around it. Next, when he is comfortable with it being on the floor with food, hold it up and reward him with a piece of kibble every time he touches or sniffs it in your hand. Feed him his whole meal this way. Practice this until he is comfortable touching it. Next, hold a treat inside of it through the muzzle's holes, so that he has to poke his face into it to get the treat. As he gets comfortable doing that, gradually hold the treat further down into the muzzle, so that he has to poke his face all the way into the muzzle to get the treat. Practice until he is comfortable having his face in it. Next, feed several treats in a row through the muzzle's holes while he holds his face in the muzzle for longer. Practice this until he can hold his face in it for at least ten seconds while being fed treats. Next, when he can hold his face in the muzzle for ten seconds while remaining calm, while his face is in the muzzle move the muzzle's buckles together briefly, then feed him a treat through the muzzle. Practice this until he is not bothered by the buckles moving back and forth. Next, while he is wearing the muzzle buckle it and unbuckle it briefly, then feed a treat. As he gets comfortable with this step, gradually keep the muzzle buckled for longer and longer while feeding treats through the muzzle occasionally. Next, gradually increase how long he wears the muzzle for and decrease how often you give him a treat, until he can calmly wear the muzzle for at least an hour without receiving treats more than two treats during that hour. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We just adopted Barrett who is believed to be about 4 months old and is a Great Pyrneese/ Australian Shepherd mix. We brought him home to our two current dogs, Lola - a Doberman/Lab mix who is 4, and Jack - a Blue Heeler who is 2. Jack is very high energy and Lola is more laid back. The issue we're having is that the puppy is acting aggressive toward them, rather than the other way around. Jack and Lola act scared of him, while he growls, barks and jumps to nip at them. We have him on a leash and ensure that they give him space, but he continues to act this way even after we try to correct him. What could we do to fix this issue as we want them all to be comfortable at home.
Hello Sydney, It sounds like your pup may have the stronger personality between the three. The growling and nipping is probably his way of trying to play but is just rude about it since he hasn't learned to be more respectful yet. This pup will probably need a lot more structure in general than your other two dogs, and that's alright. First, I suggest teaching the Out command (which means leave the area) and the Leave It command using the methods from the articles linked below. For the Out method, be sure to also read the section about how to use Out to deal with pushy behavior. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Second, work on commands that build respect, self-control, and calmness in general this year. Remember to still be patient with him, he may have a strong personality but he is still a puppy and doing what is normal for many puppies at this age - he simply needs your guidance to learn respect, trust, self-control, and calmness so that he can enjoy being with your other two dogs. Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Dog Training Do’s https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2016/09/08/the-ten-commandments-of-dog-training-and-ownership-do-2 Finally, reward him calmly when you randomly catch him making good choices, like lying down quietly without having to be told, being calm around your other dogs, or looking to you for direction. Use soft praise and calmer body language with him to help him stay calm. If you are not already doing it, crate train him and use an exercise pen with food stuffed chew toys in the pen and crate, to give him a calm, safe place to play and rest when you are not able to directly supervise him with your older dogs, or when he gets overly rambunctious - many puppies will actually get more excited when tired, and need some quiet time in order to calm back down. Surprise method for introducing the crate and pen: https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Our 6 year old Aussie Koda has been with us since she was a little baby. She is super sweet and loves attention, and she can be a bit of a drama queen at times or when she wants something. 3 years ago we introduced a new 9-week old Australian shepherd puppy to our house hold. Right off the bat the puppy went for Koda while she was eating and of course Koda nipped at her. The new puppy was so small that the nip did serious damage to the puppies little face. The new puppy "Chloe" ended up loosing her eye because of the nip that she was given. Years have gone by and all is well with Koda and Chloe, they love each other, and they play all the time. We have not had any further issues with either of them. I guess we are gluttons for punishment because we just got another Australian Shepherd puppy a couple of day ago. We have the puppy isolated to a separate area so that Koda can have her own space, and we do not force them to be together. Koda does not even want to look at the puppy when we are inside of the house. She will growl, snarl, and show teeth if the puppy gets too close. For the most part Koda will run away from the puppy and go upstairs to my room where she just lies on the bed all day. The strange part of all of this is that if I let Koda, Chloe and the puppy outside, Koda will sometimes initiate play with the puppy. The supply will chase Koda, and she will of course run but when the puppy stops Koda approaches the puppy inquisitively and plays with her. Everything is fine and good until we come inside of the house, and then she gets all crabby again. Koda nipped at the puppy on the way in the house the other day, and we are so stressed after what happened to Chloe that we are not sure what to do. As a side note, Chloe is great with the puppy, she corrects her and is very tolerant of her.
What can we do to get Koda to settle down about the puppy and to not be so mean to her. We are so afraid that Koda is going to correct the puppy with a nip and it is going to hurt her. Koda has very short teeth, and she is quick to nip. Koda does not provide much warning before she just nips. The nip happens so quickly and then it is over. Koda does not keep going after the puppy, she just moves to get away from it. Do you have any suggestions?
Hello Shelly, First, continue using the crate and an exercise for pup to be in when you cannot supervise her and the older dogs together. Second, feed all the dogs in separate crates with the doors locked so that there are not empty or full food bowls around to guard. Keep the doors of the crates closed when no one is in the crate to prevent the other dogs from snooping around each others crates for food - which could make Koda feel upset. When you are supervising, teach all the dogs the Out command (which means leave the area) and make whoever is causing issues leave the area as needed. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Decide what your house rules are for all the dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if pup comes over to your older dog when she is trying to sleep, tell pup Out. If she obeys, praise and reward her. If she disobeys, stand in front of your older dog, blocking the pup from getting to her, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your older dog. If your older dog growls or nips at your pup, make koda leave the room while also disciplining pup if she did something she shouldn't have. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your older dog - you want her to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for puppy to learn respect for your older dog because you have taught it to her and not because your older dog has had to resort to aggression. At the same time Koda needs to learn that it is not her job to manage pup and that she has to let you handle any issues and not deal with it herself - she is not in charge of pup. You are in charge of all the dogs. If you want pup to be free but don't want to chase after her while you are home, you can also clip her to yourself using a six-foot leash, so that she has to stay near you and not wander near your other dog. If Koda isn't listening to you well, have her work for what she gets in life by having to do a command first. For example, have her sit before being let outside, lie down before being petting, wait before being fed, Watch Me before you throw a toy, ect...sometimes dogs feel insecure because there is a lack of respect for the human in the house and that needs to be calmly dealt with. That doesn't necessarily sound like the case here but keep an eye out for it. Also, spend some time learning about canine body language. Watch for subtle signs that Koda is getting stressed. She likely is giving off warning signals but they are vague and pup hasn't learned to recognize them yet. Look for freezing, stiffening, raised hair on back, a quiet lifted lip, a hard stare, a tail that is raised where the tail meets her back, and ears back - which is more a sign of discomfort and anxiety, which can proceed aggression. Don't baby, reward, or pet Koda when she is behaving aggressively or tense. Instead be confident, firm, and calm. When she is tolerant, relaxed, and friendly you can pet, praise and reward to encourage that behavior instead of tenseness and aggression. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Tara ( 4,black and white) loves humans but is less keen around other dogs so we thought if we got a puppy then she might overcome it. Fudge(14 weeks, black and tan) just jumps on Tara and bites her. I know this is pretty normal for puppy behaviour but the trouble is Tara hasn’t got a bad bone is her body and won’t tell Fudge of like she needs to. We are kind of at a loss of what to do so any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Read more at: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-puppy-to-respect-an-older-dog
Hello Niahm, first Crate Train the puppy. Crate pup at night and when you leave, and you can use an exercise pen with some toys in it also. When you cannot directly supervise the dogs together, puppy should be crated or in the pen. When you are supervising, teach both dogs the Out command (which means leave the area) and make whoever is causing issues leave the area as needed (which will mostly be puppy right now it sounds like). Follow the steps in the article below for teaching Out, then also follow the steps for How to Use Out to Deal with Pushiness section of the article, and step between pup and your older dog and be the one to walk toward the puppy until he backs out of the area. When Fudge gets really wound up he likely also needs some quiet time to chew on a food stuffed chew toy in an exercise pen or crate - many puppies get wound up when overtired or if they haven't been exercised that day or mentally stimulated. Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Decide what your house rules are for both dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if pup comes over to your older dog when she is trying to sleep, tell pup Out. If he obeys, praise and reward him. If he disobeys, stand in front of your older dog, blocking the pup from getting to her, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your older dog. If your older dog growls at your pup, make her leave the room while also disciplining pup if needed. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your older dog - you want her to learn to look to you when there is a problem, and for puppy to learn respect for your older dog because you have taught it to her and not because your older dog has had to resort to aggression. If you want pup to be free but don't want to chase after him while you are home, you can also clip him to yourself using a six-foot leash, so that he has to stay near you and not wander near your other dog. Finally, whenever your older dog is being tolerant, friendly, or calm around the puppy sneak her a treat (try not to let pup see the treat so he doesn't run over to your dog). Also, whenever puppy first enters the room give your Tara a treat before she reacts fearfully or aggressively (if it ever gets to that point). Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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