Teaching a puppy to walk in a harness with the leash can be a challenge. Everything for your puppy is new in his world. He is learning all kinds of things about his new environment and ways to do things. Adjusting to a new home is one thing. Learning to walk in a contraption that holds him in place brings a completely new level of companionship to you and your dog.
Putting your puppy on a harness will train him not to pull on the leash while on walks together. A harness could also keep your little guy safe on a leash. Strong pups could pull so hard their necks could be injured or they could pull their owners down. If you are unable to control your puppy, a harness is a great way to gain control and keep you both safe.
When you train your puppy how to walk on a leash using a harness, consider his size. Small dogs do well with a harness that clip to the leash on the back while large dogs might be more in your control with the harness clip on the chest. Be sure to research harnesses and your dog’s potential size before procuring your harness. Your strength might play a factor in which harness you’d like for your pup. Also, consider how the harness is worn and put on the dog. A small dog might be able to step into a harness, but it might be easier for a larger dog to wear one that goes over his neck and snaps around his belly rather than stepping in. Once he’s attached to the harness and leash, you’ll need to teach him to walk using the leash and harness.
Before you start, be sure to have your harness and leash on hand and ready for use. Your puppy will respond well to treats. This harness training will be similar to leash training, so be prepared to take short walks at first and move toward longer walks as he gets used to the harness. Focus on positive rewards and motivation with treats.
She is very hipper when on a walk, pulls she wants to run but I don’t run, barks at most people and other dogs even she has tried to nip at a person
Hello! Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her fear. First we reduce her fear around new dogs, and then we begin adding cues such as “watch me” or “sit.” Research tells us that most leash reactivity is caused by fear, not by aggression. Dogs bark and lunge at other dogs to warn, “Go away! Go away!” Dogs fear other dogs because of genetic reasons, lack of socialization, fights when they were puppies, or any scary (to the dog) interaction with other dogs. Sometimes having low thyroid levels contributes to unwanted canine behavior. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. Doing so will make her concerns even bigger. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things — never punishment. The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. From a safe distance — your dog determines the distance, not you — have your leashed dog view another dog. As the new dog comes into view, drop a lot of enticing meat treats just in front of your dog’s nose. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. This part is hard for humans — I understand. It helps to see your dog’s behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. The training reinforcer MUST be a great one, such as real meat. It is critical that the appearance of the new dog causes meat to fall from the sky. When the other dog is out of your dog’s view, all treats stop. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! As you are reframing your dog’s opinion of seeing other leashed dogs, be careful where you take your dog, and be protective of what she is exposed to. One fight can create a reactive dog. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage (or somewhere out of the way if those two options aren't possible) with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dog’s line of sight. During this time, engage your dog’s mind with mind puzzles, obedience work, and fun stuff like games in the house or yard. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. Once your dog is looking at her (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. Please let me know if you have additional questions. Thanks for writing in!
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