Your Shiba Inu has been a welcome addition to the home. Sparky is energetic despite his relatively small size. In fact, holding onto him during walks can prove challenging. Understandably, he's eager to stick his nose into everything. However, that can cause problems. For example, it’s not easy holding onto your Shiba Inu when you have a stroller to push or shopping bags to carry. So training Sparky off leash could prove invaluable. It would mean you’d have more hands and less to worry about.
This training is particularly useful if you are older or have an injury as you don’t want to risk being pulled to the ground. This training will also instill discipline that can be used in a range of other situations, so you may find it easier to stamp out other bad habits. Not to mention, this type of close-contact training will only enhance the bond between you.
Most owners are surprised to learn that training a Shiba Inu off leash isn’t as complicated as it looks. The trick is using obedience commands and incentives to keep them close to your side. Those instructions will soon get them into the habit of following your lead. You will, however, need to gradually transition from on-leash to off-leash.
If your Shiba Inu is still a puppy, then they should soak up all information. This means training could take just a couple of weeks. But if they’re older and used to having total freedom on walks, then it may take a number of months. Stick with training and before you know it your Shiba Inu will be the easiest member of the family to leave the house with. You’ll also have more time and hands to deal with noisy children, car keys, and more.
Before you can start training, you need to check you have a few essentials. The main component will be food. You can use treats or the dog's favorite food broken into small pieces. You will also need a short training leash.
Set aside around 15 minutes each day for training. You can start practicing at home, but you will then need local fields and parks to practice in. Try and train at a time where you can both concentrate, free from distractions.
Once you have all that, just bring patience and an optimistic attitude, then work can begin!
Hello! I have yet to get the dog, but I am planning to pick up a 5-6 month old puppy in a few weeks. I want to train him to be off leash, but I heard Shiba Inu is especially a tough breed due to their intelligence and stubbornness. I would love to work with a seasoned trainer to achieve this.
Hello KJ, If you are interested in hiring a trainer through wag I recommend downloading the Wag app, completing your profile and then you will be able to see who is in your area potentially to work with. Not all areas have access to Wag trainers, so regardless of whether you go through wag or find someone else local to you, I would look for a couple of things in a trainer. I would find someone who have experience specifically with Off-Leash obedience. Do they offer off-leash? Even when you are starting on Basic Obedience, if you want to end up off-leash, you want a trainer who regularly trains off-leash so they will teach your basic and intermediate with working up to off-leash in mind. Check out this trainer who offers off-leash and some of the ways they train. I also recommend checking out this article on Come. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ https://www.youtube.com/c/JamiePenrithDogTraining/search?query=come Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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We want to train him so that if he runs off, he will return when we call him.
Hello! It's great you are starting at such a young age. I am going to give you the steps to teach "recall". STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue Start in a distraction free environment so that your dog can focus only on you. Whenever your puppy or dog is coming to you on his own, wait until he is a couple of feet from you and then say his name and the word 'come.' When he gets to you, make a big fuss. With this exercise, your dog will learn that coming to you is a really good thing. After a while, you can lengthen the distance between you and start using the word when he is coming to you from a greater distance. Coming to you should always be rewarded, whatever the circumstance and no matter how long it took your dog to respond. Motivate your dog to come by being exciting, running away from him, waving a toy, or having delicious food for him when he gets to you. This will show him that coming back to you the best thing he can do. STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play Make sure you play the Back and Forth game with another person that your dog is comfortable with. Start the game in a quiet environment so it is easy for your dog to focus on you. Hold your dog back while the other person calls him excitedly. Try not to use his name or the cue word but talk excitedly to ‘gee’ him up. Do not release him until the person calls his name followed by the cue word “come.” When the cue word is given, release your dog and let him go running to the person calling. As soon as he reaches them they should praise and reward him with a game of tug or a food reward. When your dog has had his reward, have the other person hold him back as you call him and release as you say his name followed by the cue word. When he comes to you reward him with another game of tug or food reward. Repeat this game back and forth but only do a few repetitions so your dog does not get bored or too tired. Keeping it fresh means the game is always fun to play. STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside Now your dog knows what the word “come” means you can use the cue word to call him to you while adding a hand signal to the word. Hand signals are always good to build with vocal cues so that even if your dog cannot hear you he will understand what the hand signal means. This is good if your dog is a distance away from you. Start in a quiet environment. Walk away from your dog and call his name followed by the cue word and a hand signal. Praise and reward him when he comes to you. Start increasing the distance you call him from and praise for his compliance. If he does not respond, go back to the previous distance and repeat. Only practice this cue for a few minutes so your dog does not get bored. The secret to success is to always keep it fun, exciting and fresh. When your dog recognizes the hand signal, try calling his name and using the hand signal by itself without the vocal cue. You will then be able to use a combination of vocal cue only, hand signal only and the two together. Now your dog knows what the cue word means you can start to call him from different rooms or from areas where he cannot see you. This will encourage him to respond even when you are out of sight. STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside Now your dog is consistently coming to you in a distraction free environment you can proof your recall cue by taking it outside. Practice the recall in your yard and then gradually build up to the point where you can use it in the park or similar environment. The ultimate test is to use the recall when your dog is engaged in a different activity. Wait for a lull in that activity and then call your dog to you. Praise his decision to comply.
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I have a question on house toilet training. Leo goes for a walk first thing in the morning whee he goes to the toilet outside. I then have a dog walker that comes mid way through the day and then i walk him straight away when i get in from work, he goes to the toilet on his walk then too. the problem i have is, i've used puppy pads when he was younger and now if i don't leave one out he will go where the pad is when he is left out of his cage for more than a few hours. Will he eventually know to hold it? Because im at work i dont want him going on the floor so leave one down, if its not down he will go where the pad was. Any tips?
Hello, You will need to crate train him and have him stay in a crate while you are gone so that he gets out of the habit of peeing inside on something and gets used to holding his bladder between potty trips. If he is being let out at least every 4-5 hours he should be able to hold his bladder for that long while in a crate but he needs to get used to doing so. Dogs have a natural desire to keep a confined space clean so a crate encourages this. 6-8 months is also when dogs jaws develope strength and there is a big destructive chewing phase hr may enter soon, so a crate will keep him and your home safe until he gets past that if he is a chewer - this phase is marked by a dog being able to actually chew things apart so it can be more dangerous than puppy chewing since they may ingest something they chewed. Do not put anything absorbent in the crate with him. If you want to give him a bed look for something like www.primopads.com that is not absorbent and can be anchored down to the crate to prevent most chewing. Also, the crate should be big enough for him to stand up, turn around, and lie down, but no so big he could pee on one end and stand in the opposite end to avoid it. Size of a space helps utilize a dog's desire to hold their bladder. Since he may still grow some you can purchase a wire crate with a metal divider and block of part of the crate with the divider if needed until he grows into it. To give him something to do in the crate, purchase a few medium Kong's or durable hollow chew toys and look up different ways you can see stuff Kong's to make them interesting for dogs. You can decrease his normal food portions to make up for the calories. Surprise method for crate training https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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