How to Train a Yorkshire Terrier to Not Bark

Hello Grace, You have a couple of options here. The first is to potty training him using the "Crate Training" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside The second option - and the one that sounds most realistic in your situation, is to set up an exercise pen, place a disposable grass pad on one end and a Primopad on the opposite end. Also, give your dog something to do, like a couple of favorite chew toys - such as a food-stuffed Kong, or a treat dispensing device - such as an AutoTrainer, Pet Tutor, Kong wobble, or puzzle toy. I suggest a Primopad from Primopads.com because they are not absorbent so shouldn't encourage him to pee on it like a soft bed or towel would but will still give him a place to rest with a little cushioning. They are also easy to clean so you can keep odors down. I suggest a disposable grass pad because that will encourage peeing on grass and not encourage peeing on carpets like a pee pad could. You could also train him to use a litter box but the grass pad will likely be easiest. To teach Rocky to use the grass pad, check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Exercise Pen" method. The article talks about litter box training but you can use the same steps with the grass pad. Simply substitute a grass pad for the litter box. https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Disposable grass pad option: https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=asc_df_B005G7S6UI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763115430&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16186452506555784925&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015431&hvtargid=pla-568582223506&psc=1 More expensive, nicer option: http://www.porchpotty.com/Default.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQiAr93gBRDSARIsADvHiOqp-lRKnIf0HKsZlJIXmTtvDGiGRQ0O6FTABU7K1cL7tDWLNA5ph9AaAsEsEALw_wcB For the barking I suggest using a high-quality bark collar or Pet Convincer - which is a small canister of pressurized air. Only pick the Pet Convincer if you will use it consistently though and the barking is primarily happening when you are home - otherwise a bark collar is in order. A bark collar may sound harsh, but if you teach him the "Quiet" command before you start using one and reward him with treats when he does not bark for attention (teaching him that being quiet is the way to get your attention), then it is a much better alternative than getting rid of him. Check out the article I have linked below and follow the "Quiet" method. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once he understands what "Quiet means, then when you put him outside or into the exercise pen, tell him "Quiet". If he stays quiet for a couple of minutes, return to him and sprinkle a couple of treats by his feet, then leave again. If he barks, tell him "Ah Ah" - the collar will correct him at the same time, but that way you are also teaching him to respond to your voice. The key is to tell him what he should do first (ie. Be quiet), to reward him when he does it, and for him to be consistently corrected for the barking. If you use a pet Convincer, you will have to go to him when he barks, tell him "Ah Ah" and spray a small puff of air at his side (NOT his face). Do NOT use a citronella collar. They seem gentler but they can actually be very harmful because the smell lingers with a dog for a long time - continuing to correct them for an hour or more sometimes, and dog's noses are VERY sensitive. An unscented air collar is fine but they tend to be less effective than bark collars. Look at the weigh ratings and reviews on bark collars. You will want one that says it can be used for dogs that weigh as little as your dog. https://www.petsmart.com/dog/training-and-behavior/bark-control/petsafe-elite-little-dog-bark-control-5163049.html I suggest asking your vet about the biting and licking. It might be a flea allergy since that is common - in which case I recommend using an exercise pen indoors even more so. You might want to ask your vet about a flea prevention that also repels fleas to decrease bites. If the issue continues after moving him inside, food allergies or a allergy to something else in his environment should be investigated. Food allergies are less common than flea allergies but still common in pets. Also, since there is a smell, he should probably be checked for sores and skin infections - that can cause strong odors in addition to the saliva. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Janice, I suggest teaching a "Quiet" command by follow the "Quiet" method from the article that I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Once Mojo understands what "Quiet" means, work on his general self-control and ability to calm himself by adding a lot more structure to his life, including teaching him the "Place" command and teaching him manners in the crate. Dogs with anxiety tend to benefit from a lot of structure and boundaries. In his case, I suggest not comforting him when he is barking. Instead, tell him "Quiet" and redirect him or correct him for the barking. Since he will know the "Quiet" command, the correction is for disobedience and is clear. Next, give him something else to do like go to "Place" and stay there with a chew toy. He needs opportunities to learn how to handle his own emotions and calm down. He needs firmness, calmness, and guidance from you. He should not be too old to learn but it will take work. Check out the video below for general guidelines for calmness How to teach Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo How to teach Crate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn5HTiryZN8 If there is something specific that he is barking at, you can also spend time desensitizing him to that specific thing. If the barking is general and everything, teach him "Quiet", correct disobedience when he keeps barking after being told quiet, and give him another job to do like stay on Place or stay in the crate with the door open. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpzvqN9JNUA Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Talesha, Barking is a self-rewarding behavior because of the chemicals released in a dog's brain when they get aroused while barking. Barking can be a sign of fear- like if pup shows other signs of fear around you and your husband in general. It can be to get attention, or it can simply be a habit that was formed at some point and continues because pup finds it satisfying. Most of the time dogs who bark at everything have become overly sensitive to things and have formed a habit of reacting. I suggest combining a few things in your case. First, you need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - which will be a form of correction - neither too harsh nor ineffective. A Pet Convincer is one example. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Intentionally practice creating scenarios and noises that typically trigger the barking and rewarding pup before he barks and when he stops barking. You want to do this so often, that something like the phone ringing or the door being knocked on has become boring to pup and they have developed a habit of being quiet around those noises and just ignoring them. Right now pup is expecting something exciting, scary, or new to happen when certain things happen - make those events - like a door knock or person entering a room, completely boring by doing it over and over and over again during training scenarios - rewarding the correct response. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Frankie, At this point in training, the barking is normal. Many dogs will try barking during the learning process at a certain point. She is trying different things to figure out how to get the food. When she barks, put the treat behind your back, slow down the training process - breaking it into smaller steps, and wait a few seconds after giving a command before showing her what to do - to let her "guess" the right thing. Keep training sessions shorter but frequent, so that she has lots of opportunities to improve but gets less overwhelmed with long sessions - when a dog starts getting overwhelmed mentally, then tend to guess more instead of listen and generally loose focus, which makes it more frustrating and harder to teach for the person training also. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Kayleigh, This is a behavior I would hire a private trainer to help with in person, because the training will need to be adjusted some in real time based on how pup is responding and pup's body language and responses need to be evaluated also. Since in person training may not be an option due to shut downs, working with a trainer over phone and Skype with videos of pup's reactions being submitted to the trainer for evaluation, and a Q and A session for the trainer to ask more about pup's behavior could significantly help still, if you work with the right trainer, who has experience in this area. You need someone who can evaluate whether pup is afraid of something in their environment that they need to be desensitizes. Whether they are just in the habit of being highly aroused and need that interrupted with something like an unscented Pet Convincer, or whether they are being rewarded somehow for their behavior - perhaps they want to be picked up and its an attention seeking behavior. Once it's known what's going on, then a method for addressing the behavior and what's causing it can be created and followed. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Patricia, First, for the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - which will be a form of punishment - neither too harsh nor ineffective. A Pet Convincer is one type of interrupter. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing him a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever he DOESN'T bark around something that he normally would have, calmly praise and reward him to continue the desensitization process. Finally, work on pup's heel. You want pup to learn to heel slightly behind your leg so that he is in a following state during the walk, and not scanning the horizon for things to bark at. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Maria, First, for the barking, I suggest combining a few things in your case. You need a way to communicate with him so I suggest teaching the Quiet command from the Quiet method in the article I have linked below - don't expect this alone to work but it will be part of the puzzle for what I will suggest next. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark Next, once pup understands what Quiet means you will choose an interrupter - neither too harsh nor ineffective. A Pet Convincer is one example of an interrupter. A pet convincer is a small canister of pressurized, unscented air that you can spray a quick puff of at the dog's side to surprise them enough to help them calm back down. (Don't use citronella and avoid spraying in the face!). In situations where you know pup will bark or is already barking (catch them before they bark if you can), command "Quiet". If they obey, reward with a treat and very calm praise. If they bark anyway or continue to bark, say "Ah Ah" firmly but calmly and give a brief correction. Repeat the correction each time they bark until you get a brief pause in the barking. When they pause, praise and reward then. The combination of communication, correction, and rewarding - with the "Ah Ah" and praise to mark their good and bad behavior with the right timing, is very important. Once pup is calmer in general after the initial training, practice exposing him a lot to the things that trigger the barking normally (make a list - even if it's long). Whenever he DOESN'T bark around something that he normally would have, calmly praise and reward him to continue the desensitization process. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello! Without the ability to ask follow up questions, I hope I do not give you information you already know, or have tried. Sometimes dogs move around a bit when they eliminate. I am wondering if that is what is going on with him. Is it possible for you to put down two pads next to eachother to see if that helps solve this problem. Some dogs simply need more space to go comfortably. I am also going to give you a crash course on pad training just in case there are any tips that you find beneficial. Sometimes starting over and refreshing them with training makes a world of difference. Choose Your Spot Pick a space in your house where you want your dog to go. Obviously, you’ll want this spot to be a low-traffic area. Make sure this spot is easily accessible to your dog, and make sure the floor surface is linoleum or tile, as opposed to carpet. If your dog “misses,” it will be easier to clean up. If the only spot you can put the pee pad is a carpet, you might consider getting a small tarp to put underneath the puppy pee pad to guard against spillage. Choose a spot that is outside of your “smell zone.” An important tip to remember is to make sure not to let your dog decide the spot he likes. Not only might he pick an area you won’t like, but he’ll learn that he is in charge – not you – which can cause a host of problems down the line. Monitor Your Dog When you are potty training your dog, full-time monitoring is an absolute necessity. It’s impossible to correct bad behaviors if you don’t see them happen. Dogs have very short memories. It is important to catch your dog in the act. If your dog goes on the floor, and you try to correct him hours after the fact, he will be confused and upset, not knowing what he did wrong. This can hinder training and your relationship with your dog. Puppies, in particular, must be watched constantly. They have less control over their bowels and will go when they have to go. If you miss these moments, you lose precious training opportunities. Of course, it’s nearly impossible to be with your dog 24 hours a day, but try to spend more time at home during the weeks you are potty training – it will pay off in the long run. Learn Your Dog’s Schedule Dogs, for the most part, are predictable. They will go to the bathroom at predictable times. You should be able to learn when your dog has to go based on timing as much as on his signals. Take some time to study your dog’s bathroom habits. You’ll learn the amount of time after he eats or drinks that he has to go, and you’ll get in rhythm with his daily bathroom schedule. This will help you reduce accidents and speed up the potty training process. Studying your dog’s habits can also help you identify his bathroom “triggers” – like having to go after a certain amount of playtime. Once you learn your dog’s schedule, use it to your advantage in potty training. Bring him to the pee pad a few minutes before he normally goes, and encourage him. This will help him get used to going in the right spot, and help you establish repetition in your training. Choose a Command Word Dogs have keen senses – they respond to sight, smell, and sound. When you begin pee pad training, choose a command word and use it every time you take your dog to the pad. Just about any word will work. The tone of your voice is more important than the actual word. Try phrases like “go on” or “go potty” in a slightly elevated, encouraging tone. Make sure to repeat this same command, in the same tone, every time you take your dog to the pee pad. Avoid Punishment When your dog has an accident, it’s just that – an accident. When you punish your dog during potty training, he will become confused and scared. He doesn’t know what he’s done wrong, and can’t understand why the person he loves most is mad at him. Most importantly, it will not help his potty training. Positive Reinforcement Both human and dog behavior is largely based on incentives. Dogs’ incentives are very simple – they want to eat when they are hungry, play when they are excited, and sleep when they are tired. But the most important thing your dog wants in life is to please you. Use this to your advantage. Whenever your dog goes on his potty training pad, shower him with lots of praise. If he sees that he gets praise for doing his business on the pad, he will be incentivized to keep going on the pad – and he’ll be excited to do it! Potty training – whether it’s a pee pad or going outside – will take time, but if you do it right, can take less time. Many dogs are potty trained in less than two weeks. Just remember that you and your dog are partners. Do everything you can to help him learn the proper etiquette, and you will enjoy a long, quality relationship together. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for writing in.

Hi! There are quite a few steps to teach "Quiet" so I am pasting a link for you to follow. Thanks for writing in! https://wagwalking.com/training/be-quiet

Hello, Yorkies love to vocalize, that is certain. In fact, many dogs do. Is this a new behavior? Has something changed in the house that has brought on the barking? There are excellent tips here: https://wagwalking.com/training/not-bark-when-left-alone. I would try the Set Up Right Method. Before you go out, prepare a Kong toy stuffed with kibble and a smear of dog safe peanut butter (no xylitol as it is toxic!). Give it to Penny before you leave. Does she have an area she likes to go to be safe and cozy? Dogs will often bark if they are left in a big house or apartment. Make her an exercise pen area, with a new cozy bed, her stuffed kong and other new toys, and a background noise like a fan (not directed at her) or a radio. Take a look here:https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-set-up-puppy-long-term-confinement-area. Leave the house for 5 minutes with her in her pen, extending the time by 5 to 10 minutes per day to acclimatize her to being alone. Dog appeasing pheromones may calm her; they are emitted via diffuser and can be bought at pet supply stores. I hope these tips help. Good luck!

Hi! To help with barking, you will have to reinforce the quiet behavior. That works a little better than punishment for the barking. When your dog starts barking, say a command such as "quiet". When your dog has stopped barking, make sure to reward with tasty treats. You may have to keep treats handy or near you for the first few days to a week, but you should start to see results within a few weeks of consistent practice.

Hello Youmna, It sounds like pup is protesting - and if they have been let out of their room when they barked, they have learned that barking is the way to get out. Think of it like a toddler not wanting to go to bed and protesting. Check out the surprise method from the article linked below to teach pup to become quiet to get out first. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello, Yorkie's love to be vocal - that's part of their personality. If you want to give Blue a more peaceful slumber, you can add white noise to the mix. Turn on a fan as white noise (but not pointed at Blue at any time). You can also teach Blue the Quiet Command, which comes in handy at any instance. Take a look here for clear instructions on how to teach the Quiet Method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark. As well, there are instructions for the Desensitize Method, another excellent training tool. Good luck and happy training!

Hello Leslie, The neutering likely won't solve the issue. If pup is territorial or barking due to testosterone related things, like wanting to challenge other males or get to females, it can help pup calm down, but most barking happens whether a dog has been neutered or not. Check out the barking series I have linked below. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA4pob0Wl0W2agO7frSjia1hG85IyA6a Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden