An invisible fence can be installed underground, or a transmitter set to allow a certain radius from a central point. The invisible fence can be set at the border of your property or yard site, or wherever you want your dog contained. The dog wears a radio collar that receives transmissions from a radio transmitter that is signaled by the invisible fence. The collar first produces an audible signal to the dog as he approaches the boundary of the invisible fence ,to let the dog know he is at approaching the boundary. If the dog proceeds to the boundary of the invisible fence he will receive a signal stimulus correction as he crosses the invisible fence line. The stimulus correction is usually similar to a static shock, and serves to deter the dog from crossing the invisible fence line, thus giving the dog a boundary and keeping the dog safely in a contained area.
However, simply turning your dog out to learn how the invisible fence works by trial and error will result in many incidences of negative reinforcement, which can be frightening and confusing to your dog, and may take several unnecessary incidents in order for your dog to learn the boundaries of their invisible fence and stay contained within it. Responsible use of an invisible fence includes teaching your dog what the boundaries of the invisible fence are, and how to understand radio signals warning of impending corrective stimulus so they can react appropriately to avoid triggering the fence.
Have lots of treats and toys to reward and reinforce appropriate containment behaviors. Do not leave your dog unattended in an invisible fence during training, so as not to result in unnecessary negative stimuli corrections that can confuse your dog or allow successful attempts at evading the invisible fence.
This is our second week training with our new fence and she's caught on wonderfully w/in the first 2 days. My question is however, we have a lake house and I am wanting to install a second system there. Is this a pipe dream for her to learn 2 different boundaries? I would think not but I haven't been able to find any training tips for it. Recommendations
Hello Mandy, Lucy should be able to learn both boundaries just fine. At the lake you will probably need to work on the training for longer since she will not be there to practice all the time.. After she initially learns the boundary there during one vacation, repeat the training the first several times you go back to the lake to help her commit it to long term memory. If you find that she has a hard time remember the boundary after the first few training sessions because a lot of time has passed between visits, then spend fifteen minutes reminding her where the boundary is each time you go to the lake, right after arrive. After that she should remember and be able to honor it as well as she does the one at home. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Shepherd cross, Poppy, terrier, Minnow belgian shepherd x2, Teddy, long-haired and Casper short-haired
9 years, 5 years, 4 years and 18 months respectively
We have four dogs, details above, ranging from a 9.5kg terrier (bodeguera andaluz) to two belgian shepherds, one slightly larger than the other, but both between 25kg and 29kg. Our other dog is a shepherd cross, about 24kg and the oldest of the four.
The terrier is a determined escaper, but never goes far - she just seems to be getting away from the big dogs and is a bright and determined 'free spirit.' The oldest of the dogs is obedient and generally placid, but will follow the others if a gate is left open, for example.
The two belgian shepherds are able to leap over the five foot fence of their large run, and easily clear the 3ft fence that defines the 'corridor' between the house and the dog pound. Since they realised they could escape, they are doing so with increasing frequency and staying out for hours at a time.
My question is in two parts:
1. Is it possible to set levels of correction for dogs of such different sizes and
2. As the 'corridor' is only 3-4ft wide, would the dogs be confused by unnecessary correction if they are simply running down it?
Hello Lynn, Some systems can accommodate multiple dogs, individualized correction levels, and small dogs also. It just depends on the system. Check out the link to one system that seems to be able to accommodate your needs: https://www.extremedogfence.com/product/extreme-dog-fence-max-grade-ultimate-performance-system/ I have not personally used the system so I suggest reading reviews also. I don't completely understand your setup but it sounds like you are planning on setting up the electric fence in the area over the fence as a backup if they jump the fence, which would be a narrow area? If so then instead of putting the electric fence on the outside of the physical fence, I suggest burying the electric fence inside your physical fenced area, one foot in front of where the physical fence starts all the way around, so that the dogs learn not to approach the physical fence at all, so they do not jump it to begin with. Having the physical fence by the electric fence also makes it easy for them to remember where it is and teach them to avoid the fence and any fence jumping attempts, plus is gives them a larger area to be in to be able to avoid corrections. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Rue 3 years old and Dixie (Heinz 57) is 1 year old. They are shelter pups and very good dogs. We live in the country and the dogs have run free for almost a year. We just installed an invisible fence. I walked the dogs around the perimeter. I am not sure what to do after that. They are outdoor dogs so do I leave the collars on? When we left for dinner the dog followed us right out. She did get shocked but does not understand what is happening. When we leave should we tie them up? What about at night?
Hello Jennifer, First, make the electric fence boundary line visible for them. Colored flags are typically placed on the boundary perimeter all the way around the fenced in area for this - the same type of flags that are used by utility companies to mark where underground wires are or property boundaries are. Keep these flags up for a couple of months so that the dogs can have a physical reminder where to go and not go and will understand that they went too far when they get shocked. Second, continue walking them around the perimeter, reward them when they stay inside the perimeter. Hold your hand out toward them, with your palm facing them like a stop sign to indicate that they should stop, and walk through the boundary line yourself- leaving the electric fence area. If they try to follow, tell them "Ah Ah" and walk toward them to make them back back up into the area they are supposed to stay in. If they cross the boundary line while doing this the collar will also correct them, but your actions should help them understand why they were corrected this time. Practice this daily until they no longer try to leave the electric fence area. Third, they should wear the collars at all times while outside right now. Inconsistency will only confuse them. Fourth, they should be confined while you are gone while they are still learning about the fence. If they are crate trained I suggest crating them in your home while you are gone right now to keep them safe and cool. At night I also suggest crating them inside until they learn (it takes many dogs 1-2 weeks to learn to stay in the boundaries well, sometime less). If they tend to naturally sleep up against the house and not wander at night they may be fine sleeping on a porch. You don't want them wandering around outside where they will get shocked and panic if they don't understand why yet though, especially since the flags will be hard to see at night. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittendenr
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