How to Train Your Chihuahua Dog to Get Along With Other Dogs

Hello Patty, Check out the article I have linked below. I would work on teaching the premack principle and use a long training leash. You will find sections in that article covering both of those things. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Also, check out the Reel In method from this article, which covers something similar. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-whippet-to-recall Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Angela, I would see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area you could join with pup, which is a class that works with dog aggressive/reactive dogs, to intensively socialize and desensitize them to other dogs with safety measures like basket muzzles and a structured environment and rewards. For less severe cases, practicing the passing approach with friends with social, well mannered dogs can also be a good exercise. For aggression, avoid a nose to nose greeting though and work on getting to the point where they can just walk down the side walk together without direct interaction, calmly. Once pup is good with that dog, then practice with a new dog, working up to lots of different dogs over time to help pup generally become good with lots of dogs, and not just one other dog. https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs Check out Kikopup on youtube, and Thomas Davis from America's Canine Educator, on youtube for some different ways to counter condition and address aggression. The trainers train very differently, and what works best depends a lot on the specific dog, type of aggression, and what you are comfortable with and can be consistent doing. I always recommend professional help when addressing aggression however, but those resources can at least educate. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Bonnie, I recommend teaching an Out command and Leave It command. Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Practice those commands in places with distractions on a long secure harness and training leash to build pup's self-control, like at a park where there are other dogs and scents you are telling pup to leave alone then rewarding for obedience. Once pup is really good at Leave It and Out on the long leash, recruit a friend and their friendly dog, or someone in your home and one of your other dogs who likes your dog. Have the dogs play in a controlled, fenced area without other dogs around, while they are wearing a back clip harness and drag leash. Periodically call the dogs away from each other when they are not entangled wrestling. Have each other call their dog from different areas of the yard so the dogs go in different directions when they disengage. Use the drag leash to carefully and quickly reel pups in to each of you if they don't obey when you call. Once your dog gets to you (because they obeyed or because you reeled them in with the leash), have pup obey a couple commands like Sit or Down, and give high value treats - this is why the dogs are being called to separate locations, you don't want competing for the same food while aroused from playing). After both dogs are focused on their people and calm from the obedience practice, allow the more timid of the two dogs to go first, telling them "Go Play" and releasing them. If they still want to play, let the second dog go also, telling them to "Go Play" as well. Practice this for 10-30 minutes a training session, often, until your dog will obey Out and Come consistently while in the middle of playing without having to be reeled in. While doing all of this, I would utilize keeping pup tethered to yourself with a hands free leash more often, and crating pup at night and while you are away, so they aren't practicing being too rough with the others without being given any feedback on it when you aren't there. Learn how to read the body language of other dogs if you do not already, so you can easily spot when the dogs are getting too aroused or one dog wants to stop and isn't being allowed to, and be able to intervene. If pup is truly aggressive or drawing blood while being too rough, I recommend hiring a professional trainer to work with you in person for this, taking additional safety measures like a basket muzzle, pup is desensitized to wearing, and teaching pup to leave the other animals alone completely, adding more structure into pup's day like a long Place command, so help facilitate giving that space to other animals. Place can be a great command to teach anyway, to facilitate everyone being calm while in the same room when you don't want to have to moderate the interactions calmly, you just want all the animals to keep to themselves for a bit. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello DiAnn, First, I highly suggest crate training the puppy. Almost all puppies will cry the first two weeks of crate training - it is new to them and they have to be given the opportunity to learn to self-sooth and self-entertain to prepare them for environments they will have to be in later and prevent dangerous destructive chewing habits that happen without confinement. Use the Surprise method from the article linked below to gradually help pup learn to be calm in the crate and to relax by using rewards for being Quiet if pup isn't already used to the crate. https://wagwalking.com/training/like-a-crate Crate pup at night and when you leave, and you can use an exercise pen with some toys in it also. When you cannot directly supervise the dogs together, puppy should be crated or in the pen. When you are supervising, teach both dogs the Out command (which means leave the area) and make whoever is causing issues leave the area as needed (which will be mostly puppy at this age). Out command: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ I also recommend teaching Leave It. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Decide what your house rules are for both dogs and you be the one to enforce the rules instead of the dogs. No aggression, no pushiness, no stealing toys, no stealing food, no being possessive of people or things, or any other unwanted behavior - if one dog is causing a problem you be the one to enforce the rules so that the dogs are NOT working it out themselves. For example, if pup comes over to your older dog when they are trying to sleep, tell pup Out. If puppy obeys, praise and reward them. If puppy disobeys, stand in front of your older dog, blocking the pup from getting to them, and walk toward pup calmly but firmly until pup leaves the area and stops trying to go back to your older dog. If your older dog growls at your pup, make your older dog leave the room while also disciplining pup by having them leave the area too if needed. Be vigilant and take the pressure off of your older dog - you want puppy to learn respect for your older dog because you have taught it to pup and not because your older dog has had to resort to aggression or has to hide all the time. If you want pup to be free but don't want to chase after them while you are home, you can also clip them to yourself using a six-foot leash, so that pup has to stay near you and not wander near your other dog. Whenever puppy enters the room, give your older dog a treat while pup is not looking. Whenever they are calm, relaxed or tolerant of puppy also give them a treat. Try not to let the puppy see you rewarding them though so that they don’t run over and overwhelm your older dog. If you can take the pressure off of their relationship and help their interactions to be calmer, then they may adjust to pup's presence as pup grows, especially when they calm down when older. Don’t expect them to be best friends. The goal right now is calm, peaceful coexistence. Enrolling pup in a puppy play group, class with play time, or moderated puppy play time with other friends' puppies, can also help pup learn how to control the pressure of their bite and give breaks when another dog indicates they need one. Keep your attitude calm but firm. Don't sooth or act sorry for either dog, but give clear directions and expectations. Calmly leading can decrease things like possessiveness and competing in a multi-dog household at times. If your older dog doesn't respect you, I would also pursue improving that part of your relationship, to build that trust and respect so pup is more willing to let you handle the puppy and will relax. Even though this article was written for a larger breed, the principles should apply to most size and breeds still. The Obedience method especially: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-doberman-to-listen-to-you If things are unsafe, not improving, or getting worse, I would reach out to a professional trainer with experience with aggression, who comes well recommended by their previous clients, for training help in person at your home. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

Hello Bonnie, Its hard to say if another dog would help. Some dogs are stressed more by a second dog, others do well and enjoy the company. As a general rule, a dog of the opposite sex is more likely to be accepted by your current dog; however, more than the sex, the type of personality that the other dog has will make the biggest difference. Often a middle of the road dog, that is not too dominate not overly timid and submissive, but a bit laid back, somewhat confident, and adaptive tends to be received most easily by many other dogs. Because you do not know whether another dog would help or not, and because the second dog could actually learn to act anxious also from your current dog, I would work on the separation anxiety from a training point first. Once it's improved, then you can consider a second dog if that's what you want. I don't recommend getting another dog for the sake of your current dog, but only if that's what you want. You current dog may or may not want another dog, but if they are in a good place themselves they are more likely able to adapt to being alone more or a second companion - whichever you prefer. I would work on building independence with pup through things like Distance Down-Stays, working up to 1 hour Place commands where pup stays while you go about your business, instead of following you around as much, a structured heel, more jobs and boundaries and structure at home in general (anxious dogs tend to benefit from work and structure), and working with a trainer who has a lot of experience dealing with separation anxiety specifically. Desensitizing pup to anything they are nervous about outside and to alone time in general through crate training and crating at points with a dog food stuffed chew toy, could also help. Check out trainers like Thomas Davis from the Canine Educator on Youtube to learn more about anxiety and the need for structure. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden