How to Train a German Shepherd to Play Fetch
Introduction
As a general rule, most dogs require exercise in their day to day lives. Walking, running, swimming, or sports are all typical outlets for the energy that dogs have to expend, but there is nothing more simple than the game of fetch. Used by dog owners worldwide, fetch is a super simple way to bond and play with your dog while also providing stimulation, training, and exercise. For the working class of dog, fetch is a useful tool for channeling the excess energy that comes with a working breed.
One of the more common working breeds is the German shepherd, bred for herding and generally used for all types of work from military to police. The German shepherd is the perfect fetching companion, as they are quick to learn and eager to please. For a high energy breed, teaching fetch is probably the best way to ensure that you’ll always have a go-to game to play on any day.
Defining Tasks
The game of fetch typically consists of a few commands that your dog should know in order to properly play. There is the actual act of fetching, holding the ball or toy in his mouth, and then the act of bringing the object back to you in order for you to throw it again. For a German shepherd, this process is typically fairly easy to pick up on and only requires some repetition. However, there are some dogs who may be a bit confused on how the game works. It may help to learn the game in steps in these cases.
You can start teaching fetch once a puppy is old enough to venture outdoors. Typically, this may have to wait until after his vaccinations, for health purposes. Fetch is perfect for any adult German shepherd to learn and should really only take two to three days to establish the way the game is played.
Getting Started
The only real thing you need to get started playing fetch is your dog’s favorite toy and ample space to throw it. The toy should be large enough to keep your dog from swallowing it, but small enough that he can reasonably carry it back to you. Good places to play fetch are in a large backyard, in a fenced-in area at the park, or in any other safe outdoor space. Avoid playing fetch in a dog park, as it may invite other dogs to steal your dog’s toy or chase after and harass your dog. Playing fetch should be a time to bond between you and your German shepherd without any other distractions.
The Fetching Method
The Holding Method
The Return Method
Written by TJ Trevino
Published: 02/26/2018, edited: 01/08/2021
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Sniper
How to training to play fetch
842 Dog owners recommended
Hello Tony, Check out the article linked below on Fetch: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-to-fetch/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Koda gets a little excited when he sees other dogs, cats & squirrels. He’s strong and he will take off after them and when I pull back on his leash he will jump up as to get away. Now, this isn’t every dog or cat or squirrel. I never know which one will set him off. Sometimes we pass them and he’s fine. I want him to be fine all the time cause he can be over powering.
842 Dog owners recommended
Hello Lori, First, I suggest laying a good foundation of communication by practicing commands like Leave It, Watch Me, Out, and Heel. Leave It method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Heel - Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Out - which means leave the area: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/how-to-teach-a-dog-the-out-command/ Come: https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Work on teaching those commands first, since pup needs to know what you are asking of them before they can be expected to comply, have the skills to remain self-controlled, or understand why they are being rewarded or corrected. Work on the structure of your walk. You want pup to be working during the walk - having to stay behind you, focus on you, perform commands periodically, and not have his mind on scanning the area in search of other dogs. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. When you walk he should be in the heel position - with his head behind your leg. That position decreases his arousal. It prevents him from scanning for other animals, and ignoring you behind him. It also requires him to be in a more submissive, structured, focused, calmer mindset - which has a direct effect on how aroused he is. Additionally, when you do pass other animals, as soon as he starts staring them down, interrupt him. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare another animal. It is far easier to deal with reactivity when you interrupt a dog early in the process - before they are highly aroused and full of adrenaline and cortisol, and to keep the dog in a less aroused/calmer state to begin with. This also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo The below videos are of dog reactive dogs - but they are good examples of keeping a dog calmer on the walk through structure and obedience exercises - to build focus on the handler and teach pup to ignore distractions. Reactive dog - example of interruptions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY8s_MlqDNE Example of interrupting an aroused dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Once pup is focusing on you regularly and ignoring distractions - at that point, you can also begin rewarding pup with small treats, further increasing their attention on you. You will need pup to be in a calmer mindset first though - so that you are rewarding the focused, calm attitude and not the aroused, predatory state. Finally, since pup is nearly pulling you over, you may need to use a training device that prevents pup from pulling so hard when this does happen. This won't be in place of any of the training, but should make management while pup is still learning and at risk of doing the behavior, easier. A gentle leader and prong collar are to options. Avoid the use of choke chains because they can damage a dogs trachea. If you use a prong collar be sure to spend time learning how to properly fit and use it - they are often used and fitted incorrectly. How to Introduce the Prong collar – plus how to connect to buckle collar with carabiner for added safety: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23zEy-e6Khg Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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