Your gorgeous Husky is going to need lots of exercise and activity. He is highly energetic and needs to burn off excess energy with play time, running, and walking. You can take your Husky on walks with you for your own exercise and to keep him moving. An important thing to think about when you are taking your dog for a walk is how adept he is at staying beside you while you are walking together. Whether your dog is walking on a leash or off a leash, your Husky will need to be trained to stay with you and walk beside you. When your dog is well behaved on and off leash, he will remain safe, free from distractions, and will have an understanding that his expectation is to stay with you and not run after something of interest. And, in turn, this will protect other animals and people you come across while walking together.
Training your Husky to walk beside you will require some distraction-free walking time on or off leash. You will be showing your dog your expectations as you walk together and rewarding him for good behavior as appropriate. Positive reward-based training works well in teaching your dog to stay next to you while walking together because it's a constant reminder to your pup that he will get a treat as long as he stays near you. Expect to have some redirection as your little guy is learning. If at all possible, try to train leash manners, the 'heel' command, and your expectations while on a walk as soon as you bring your Husky home. Training puppies your expectations is certainly easier than training older dogs because they have fewer bad habits to break. However, you can train an older dog to stay with you on walks.
Decide what your expectations are for your Husky before you begin training. Will you expect him to walk on a leash or to walk without a leash and stay next to you? If you are using a leash, consider whether or not you will also need a harness or collar. Be sure to have these things ready for your walks before you begin training. Considering using high-value treats that are different for this particular training than any other basic obedience training you may be doing. High-value treats include cheese, hot dogs, or even a tasty jerky. If you plan to clicker train, be sure to have your clicker at every training session.
So I tried to train my dog today and he did kinda listen but not really, and I don’t know what to do. I would give him snacks when I’m training him but today when I trained him he kept on trying to jump on me and I didn’t know what to do, so can you help me out? What do I do?
Hello Gloria, I suggest finding specific articles and videos on places like Wagwalking and YouTube that teach how to train the specific command you want to teach...For heeling, another good article is the Turns method from the article linked below: Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel For the jumping, check out the Step Toward method from the jumping article linked below: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-australian-shepherds-to-not-jump For the treats, keep them in your pocket on the side of your body he isn't walking on, when he does something right reward with a treat, but keep them hidden in your pocket until it's time to give one for heeling. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Pulls hard when I try to walk him
Hello Georgia, Check out the Turns method from the article linked below. Work on keeping the leash loose and using your body language to direct pup especially. Husky's have a natural desire to want to pull and the tension of the leash can make that even worse at times - you want to pursue training that teaches pup to pay attention to where you are and stay with you because they are tuned in and following and not just because a leash is forcing them to. Turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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He pulls terribly on leash and lays down on the ground when he sees other dogs.
Hello Sheila, It sounds like he would probably benefit from a lot of calm socialization. A lot of puppies will lie down when they are unsure about something new. Sometimes this is also stalking play behavior if pup springs to the end of the leash excitedly when the dog moves past. Pay attention to pup's body language and the environment. Pup may feel nervous around the other dogs. Work on helping pup overcome that fear first by using play and treats to distract pup and then reward pup for any confidence, calmness, or tolerance they show when another dog passes by at a distance. Practice this further away from the scary thing first and very gradually work up to pup being able to pass another dog as his confidence grows with your help. Simply spending time sitting outside with pup daily in the environment pup is uncertain of where other dogs may pass by in the distance - without expecting walking yet - can help the area become less scary or distracting. Next, if pup still won't walk, take some small treats or pup's dog food pieces in a small ziplock bag in your pocket or a favorite toy. Every time pup takes a couple of steps, give a treat or toss the toy a step forward or let pup give the toy a tug. Keep your energy excited and confident. When pup stops, tell pup "Let's Go" in a calm and business-like tone of voice (it's not a question, it's a confident, calm command), then tug and release the leash several times in a row until pup takes a couple more steps - at which point give another treat or play. The leash tugs should stop as soon as pup starts moving. Keep your walking goals short at first. Also, do not continuously pull pup on the leash. Doing so can harm pup's neck, but also dog's have a natural tendency to pull away from something - so if you pull pup in one direction, he will just pull back in the other direction, budging even less. This is why you do the quick tug and releases so that not following is uncomfortable with the tugs but not a continuous pull. You want pup to choose to walk to get away from the annoying tugs and to receive treats. If pup is aggressive toward other dogs, you will need to train in a different way to address that. For the pulling, when other dogs aren't around, begin practicing the Turns method, working pup up to distractions like the method mentions. Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel If pup is friendly with other dogs up close and isn't aggressive, work on calm socialization, and don't skip rewarding pup for calmness around other dogs once he is doing better on walks and is calm enough to reward it! That can help ultimately. For socialization, do things like joining obedience classes, trainings clubs, group dog hikes and walks, canine sports, ect...Your goal right now should be interactions with other dogs that have structure and encourage focus on you, calmness around the other dogs, and a pleasant activity with other dogs around - opposed to roughhousing or tense environments with tons of unpredictable dogs loose which increases adrenaline. Recruit some friends with well mannered dogs to go on walks with you and your dog, following the Passing Approach method and Walking Together method to help the dogs learn how to be calm around each other, while also continuing socialization. Passing Approach and Walking Together methods: https://wagwalking.com/training/greet-other-dogs If pup is freezing and pulling toward another dog in an attempt to fight, the underlying aggression needs to be addressed in another way. In that case, I recommend hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issues to help you in person, instead of following the training I outlined for nervousness or excitement around other dogs. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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