Puppies can develop bad habits for any number of reasons. It could be a behavior that was inherited from the mother, or it could be due to a bad experience that happened at any point before your puppy came home with you. No matter the reason, even young puppies can show fear or aggression towards the unfamiliar. This can include both other animals as well as strange people, and this fear can manifest in a number of ways.
One of the more obvious ways that a puppy can respond to a strange person is to start barking. Barking is loud and noisy and has the capacity to scare some people away or prevent the puppy from being touched or handled by someone he is scared of. Barking is annoying at the best of times and intimidating at the worst and a puppy will quickly learn that it can be an effective tool. The only problem is, barking is not polite! On top of that, you certainly don’t want your puppy starting off with such a prominent fear. It’s important to nip this problem in the bud before it escalates.
Most puppies are fully capable of dropping bad habits and developing healthier ones, though it will heavily depend on the history, personality, and resilience of the individual. Some older dogs are largely incapable of escaping fear reactivity and therefore should rely on management of the fear, rather than a cure. This is where prevention comes in, which can be used for any puppy who may be too entrenched in his ways to be able to face the fear head-on.
The other methods rely on an eventual adaptation to strangers or a redirect to a more productive activity to remove stress and fear. Whichever method you choose, you should begin your training as early as possible to catch the problem before it can grow out of control and you should begin to see progress or a complete change in two to four weeks with consistency and repetition of your training techniques.
The best tools for training your puppy to stop barking at strangers are toys to act as distractions and treats to reinforce a more appropriate behavior. These treats should be especially tasty or interesting for your puppy. Try foods that he’s never had before or would not get on a typical day and save these treats for these special occasions.
If you’re working on management, you may want to find a crate to keep your puppy in when guests are over. Otherwise, arm yourself with patience. Your puppy is learning and will require plenty of guidance along the way.
The dog likes some random people but will otherwise yap her head off and growl at everybody else. We are trying to get her to like "her" grandmother but she hates her with a vengeance, possibly because she smells grandmother's dog on her. Grandmother has also tried giving dog treats through a door open a crack, but as soon as Dog sees Grandmother's face, she goes nuts. This has to be resolved because grandmother is over a lot!
Hello Yona, Have regular get-to-togethers with your grandmother. Measure out Shoko's food for the day into a zip-lock bag and have your grandmother toss pieces of food to her without looking at her. Shoko will probably bark at first, but simply ignore her and wait until she stops for a second. This may take a while at first. As soon as she takes a break, praise her and have your grandmother toss treats over to her. Do this whenever she stops barking for a second. When she first sees your grandmother also praise her and give her a couple of treats from the bag, one at a time, before she has the chance to react. The goal is to catch her during quiet or calm brief seconds and reward those seconds. This also needs to be practiced often and practiced for long enough for her to gradually start to relax and realize that she gets treats around your grandmother. Let Shoko be the one to approach your grandmother once your grandmother is within ten feet of her. When Shoko can handle being in the same room with her, then have your grandmother ignore her, and if she comes over, give her treats. Take it slow and let Shoko initiate the interactions. Your grandmother can drop treats behind her when she walks around to encourage Shoko to stay close and face her fears. Starting the training at a new location might be easier for Shoko at first. Try taking Shoko over to your grandmother's house, the yard, or a park, and keep some distance between them while your grandmother tosses treats at first. Also, enroll Shoko in a puppy class that will practice having the owners touch and handle each other's puppies while they feed them treats. Shoko needs to be around a lot of people starting immediately. These interactions with people should involve lots of treats, toys, and fun, and work on tempting Shoko to check out new things and people by scattering treats around something new or having new people offer or toss treats, rather than forcing Shoko to get close to something she is afraid of. If she makes the choice on her own and receives a reward for doing so, that should help her be braver in the future around that type of thing again. Take her to lots of places like parks, farmers markets, pet stores, puppy class, friend's homes, on walks, local ball games, and outdoor shopping malls. Start with calmer more spacious locations first, or people you know who will calmly toss her treats and ignore her. As she improves, take her to more and more places and let people feed her treats. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
I’m not being helpful at all but your dog looks exactly like mine!
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My dog loves some strangers, and then barks and growls at others. It seems random to us who he decides to like and dislike. Even if we are in a group of people, some he will ignore, others he will approach, and then others he will bark and growl at.
Hello Jason, This sounds like a fear issue and a need for more positive socialization. People's body language and scents can effect how a dog views them. Things you wouldn't think about like hats, glasses, beards, canes, strange walks, or anything your dog isn't used to seeing a lot can also cause fear. With the help of a trainer take Musibi around as many people as possible and have those people toss him treats when he is being friendly or calm (not aggressive). Check out the video linked below. If you are worried about a potential bite (which is always a possibility with a fearful dog), use a back tie with a leash and take safety measures like tape on the ground for people to stand behind to keep him from being able to get too close to people, while people are still able to toss him treats and socialize him while he is calm or acting friendly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIJoEJfTS-E When he is very comfortable with people and not a bite risk, then you can also get him used to being touched by giving him a treat whenever he is touched somewhere. Start doing this yourself to teach him the concept, then have others do it later when he is comfortable with them. For Example, touch his ear and give a treat, touch his shoulder and give a treat, gently touch his tail and give a treat, ect...Even if he does well being touched now, do this as a preventative to maintain his tolerance later. Be careful about others doing this if he is still nervous. Go slow and wait until he is more comfortable around them in general. He needs to meet at least a hundred different people in a positive way, including men, women, children, people of different races, different ages, disabled people, different looking people, ect...think about who he normally is around in your home and make sure you include a lot of people who are different in some way from his family, to make sure he gets used to them too. If you have any reason to be concerned about more serious aggression (opposed to barking and seeming nervous), do not wait to get help. The earlier aggression is addressed the easier it will be and the better the potential outcome. Aggression gets harder to address the older a puppy gets. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Mabel has never been the most sociable puppy but has recently started barking more and more whenever she sees a stranger approaching whilst on a walk. We walk her with out two year old collie who adores everybody so the fear is not coming from him. We’ve had her from 8 weeks and she’s been well socialised with people and dogs but her behaviour is getting worse. I’m pretty sure it’s fear as she displays all the signs of being scared once she gets closer to the person. How can I stop this?
Hello Kate, Check out the videos linked below on counter conditioning - making something scary, pleasant in the dog's mind instead. Barking on a walk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JY7JrteQBOQ Also, check out this video. This video is a bit more intensive but notice the use of a back tie leash, the timing of rewards (while the dog is calm - not while acting aggressive). Having people you know that your dog does not know practice this with her can also help her learn to be calmer around people. Have people toss treats instead if she is a bite risk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIJoEJfTS-E&t=475s Always take precautions when dealing with aggression. You may want hire a trainer who works with several other trainers, who will rotate working with your dog as "strangers" in public places, so that you can practice the training with people who know how to do this who your dog thinks are new. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My dog hates strangers, mainly men, if they ignore her she is generally OK but will sometimes bark or chase them away, but if they try to stroke her or shout her over she goes mad barking and lunging at them. She also hates it when strangers come into the house, she is better if they stand still but if they start moving about she barks and lunges at them, she won't take any treats off strangers even if they have been thrown out for her.
Hello Tasha, Some Border Collies can be wary of strangers and because they are pretty sensitive in general they really need to be socialized in a positive way with a ton of people while they are young puppies. It sounds like her issue could be a combination of a lack of socialization around lots of people while young and maybe genetics. I suggest hiring a professional trainer to help you with this. Find someone who works with a number of other trainers or staff members so that their are a lot of different people who can work with her during the training process. She probably needs some correctly done correction for the aggressive behavior, but once the calms down after that, she then needs to be rewarded for her calmness, tolerance, and relaxed body language. Most stressed and highly aroused dogs won't take food, you want to interrupt that mindset first, then work at a level she can handle. Once she can get within a couple of feet of someone, having her work with them by doing things like a structured heel, obedience, and agility can help build her confidence around them. This needs to be done very carefully to avoid a bite and go at a pace she can learn without under or overwhelming her. Check out the videos linked below for some example of structure, calming exercises, confidence boosting exercises, associating people with good things, and creating calm environments. Aggression and fear are things that are best dealt with in person because the exact way you do the training depends on how the dog is responding, and you need to really be in tune with a dog's body language and know how to adjust the training to get the best results. Structure and calmness - especially Heel and Place: Place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo Crate manners: https://thegooddog.net/training-videos/free-how-to-training-videos/learn-to-train-the-good-dog-way-the-crate/ Thresholds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-w28C2g68M Heel article - The turns method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Heel Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTiKVc4ZZWo Dog Training Do’s https://www.solidk9training.com/sk9-blog/2016/09/08/the-ten-commandments-of-dog-training-and-ownership-do-2 Confidence building: Agility video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OseD7TRwsPQ Agility video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPxUXvWawpk Associating people with good things and fair corrections - done by an experienced trainer who specializes in aggression, reactivity and fear, Jeff Gellman SolidK9Traininig. Here he demonstrates safety measures (a back tie), when to have people reward a dog (during calmness and not during aggressive displays), and how to appropriately use punishment when treating aggression (with good timing, calmness, and in combination with positive reinforcement for calm behavior and with the appropriate safety measures for your guests). Aggression video: https://youtu.be/mgmRRYK1Z6A I really suggest hiring a trainer who has a lot of experience with aggression and uses both positive reinforcement and fair corrections, and a lot of structure and calmness, to help you. Ask a lot of questions, read reviews or ask for client referrals - many trainers only teach obedience and do not have experience with aggression - many! Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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Hi, I’m actually writing this as a concerned child (who is in college) about my family’s dog, Bella.
We’ve had Bella for two years now—since she was a puppy—and she’s truly a sweet and loving dog. There are almost two sides to her though; one for inside the home or on the property and the other for being out on walks. When she’s in the property, she acts like a guard dog and will bark at even the slightest movement from a car passing by, the UPS delivery trucks, a stranger walking on the road, someone in the far distance, etc. This bark isn’t a slight grumble here and there; instead, she barks incessantly and her entire demeanor changes (hair will stand up, etc). Meanwhile, when we are out on a walk, she’s really excited to see people and see other dogs and whimpers really—there’s rarely ever a bark on a walk. Because she’s so strong and loud when she barks, I don’t like the idea of introducing them.
All of this to say that I need help and a solution. With three kids and her incessant barking whilst on the property at anyone and everything, having friends over makes me worry that people will avoid us because she is SO bark-y and intimidating with her Rottweiler coloring. Once she meets people, it’s fine and she’s couldn’t be bothered by their presence, but it’s at a point where the mailman holds pepper spray to be ready in the case that she gets out. Something needs to change.
To make matters worse, she sits on a windowsill in our front windows and quite literally guards the house. My mom has had a trainer come over who did suggest blocking her view on the window sill because her hormones are definitely heightened, but my mom thinks that she would ruin any curtains or shades placed there. I know that it’s important to blockade that view off but I am wondering if/what I can do to redirect her attention away from anyone passing by? Any suggestions would be great!
Hello Casey, The behavior could go either way. Some dogs are territorial at home but fine with others in another, neutral environment. Others lack socialization in general and may just be quiet in public because they are tense and nervous (less confident than at home), so are a ticking time bomb in public too. For public encounters, see if there is a G.R.O.W.L. class in your area. These classes are designed for aggressive and dog reactive dogs. All the dogs wear muzzles so it's a safe way to socialize them together. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My challenge with maple is she I so scared of strangers. She barks at them and tries to herd them. She is amazing with dogs but terrible with strangers. Even at the dog park she will find strangers and bark at them non stop
Hello Trey, Because of pup's age I suggest hiring a professional trainer who specializes in behavior issue and works with a team of trainers. Look for someone who can work in person with desensitizing her to a variety of people who know how to approach, when to reward, and are able to practice things like obedience with her as she improves around them. The quickest way to do this will likely be through a qualified training group, where pup can practice around a lot of different willing "strangers" - trainers she doesn't know, to overcome that fear more quickly, with people who know how to interact with her. This will likely look like rewarding calm responses from a distance, interrupting outbursts and using structured obedience to build her trust and respect for you, work up to strangers rewarding from closer and closer distances as she learns to trust them and you more, and finally having them practice obedience with her to gain trust. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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My puppy has this problem in staying calm when passing by people. She starts growling at first and then barks. It all started when my girlfriend's dad and sister came back from their trip and since she never met then she treated them as strangers. She also avoids and barks at other people at the dog park and avoids playful dogs. What can i do for her to be friendlier and playful.
Love the picture! Right off the bat, I would start working on obedience commands right away, reinforcing and strengthening the commands she already knows, and adding others. Sit: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-pitbull-puppy-to-sit The Turn Method for Heel: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel. Obedience in general: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-german-shepherd-puppy. I would also contact a trainer who is used to working with dogs that have issues, whether it be timidity or aggression. I think it is essential to Bailey being a safe dog - and besides, dogs love to use their brains. She may need more mental games to give her focus and confidence. Once you have a few obedience commands under control, sign her up for a group class to learn and socialize with other dogs. Good luck!
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Ollie and I have not been to training yet due to covid but he growls and barks at people, dogs and noises that he doesn’t know. Sometimes it’s as little as someone opening an window (I live in apartment). He barks and growls to the point people are afraid and avoid him which I don’t want. I try to make him sit and look at me but he just goes haywire and I don’t know what to do. I know some people who use bark collars that do not shot they just beep or vibrate would that be a good idea?
Hello Danielle, At this age, this is most likely a fear issue due to a lack of socialization. I don't recommend a collar - that could make this issue worse at this age. Pup really needs to be around a bunch of people and have positive interactions with them. Since joining a class may not be an option, I recommend either inviting dog savy friends over to a fenced area and having them toss pup treats whenever he responds calmly to them, then have him perform commands like Sit to earn treats when he gets warmed up enough to get close, then to practice gently touching in in various locations of his body - one spot - like a shoulder, at a time while feeding a treat with their free hand each time they touch - stopping the touch as soon as the food is gone. This can be done social distancing if the area is fenced, then only pup has to go up to the person and not you. OR See if you have dog savy friends that pup can go visit at their house for a day, while they practice the above with him. Drop him off at lots of different dog-trustworthy friends' homes, one person at a time for a few hours each time, that way you don't have to go inside and interact and can still social distance but pup can get the social exposure he needs in fun ways. If you have other friends with puppies needing to socialize, why not puppy swap often. Continue to take pup places to expose them to sights and sounds, even if people can't get close to you to interact when pup is on leash and not in a fenced area. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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