There are many reasons you might want your Chihuahua to learn how to use a pee pad in your house. Chihuahuas are little dogs, and they don't typically handle winter weather very well. Pee pads are perfect for little dogs to be able to use the potty in one area in your house, protecting your floors and furniture, curtains and walls from urine damage and marking. Training your Chihuahua to use a pee pad could occur because his little body is too small to handle the harsh winter cold and his little paws are too sensitive to handle cold or icy conditions. Many Chihuahua owners also train their dogs to use pee pads if they are living in apartments. High-rise buildings in the middle of concrete cities don't offer soft, comfortable grass and places for your dogs to go potty outside. For larger dogs, it might be worth walking to a dog park and getting exercise to find some grass. However, for small dogs like Chihuahuas, it makes sense if you are in an apartment in the middle of a concrete jungle to potty train your Chihuahua within your home.
Training your Chihuahua to use a pee pad is not much different than house training your dog. You were going to take him to the same place anytime you think he needs to go potty, so he knows exactly where to eliminate. You will need to keep pee pads clean and changed frequently so he has a clean, sanitary place to go each time he needs to go. Be patient while you're training your Chihuahua to use pee pads. He may have some accidents here and there in other places. Be sure the area where you keep your pee pads is accessible to your Chihuahua, not hard to get to, and a place he can visit on his own often. It's easy to train Chihuahua puppies to use pee pads, but you can train your older dog to use pee pads as well if you are rescuing or trying to change the potty behavior of your older Chihuahua.
Be prepared before you begin training your Chihuahua to use pee pads. Stock up on the pads you plan to use so you have plenty on hand while you're training your dog. Get some high-value treats for rewards to give to your Chihuahua each time he is successful using the pee pad instead of going elsewhere. Set aside space just for your dog. This space needs to be the same space each time. Do not confuse your dog by moving pee pads around your house. Before you begin training, scope out an area that you plan to use for your dog all the time. The space to be stocked with pee pads, and your dog needs to have access to it. Spaces many families use are bathrooms, utility rooms, closets, or unused rooms.
How to kennel train my puppy to poop on the puppy pad instead of every where else?
Hello Shalynda, I am a bit confused about exactly what you are trying to teach pup. Are you wanting to teach pup to use an indoor potty or an outdoor potty? If using an indoor potty, never put the pad inside the small crate space. I don't know if that's what you are asking about, but just making sure you know to avoid that. Putting a pee pad in a small crate space with pup can lead to pup loosing their natural desire to keep a confined space clean, which would result in pup going potty in small spaces long term - like when they need to travel, are injured and being crated or confined at the vet's, as well as resulting in pup not caring to keep your home as clean also - because pup holding their bladder while in the rest of your home is related to that natural desire to keep a confined space clean that pup generalizes to the rest of your home during the potty training process. Instead, for inside potty training, use something a bit bigger and more open, like an exercise pen, so pup can go potty on the pad on one end and sleep on a non-absorbent bed, like www.primopads.com or k9ballistics crate mats on the opposite end. Exercise pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy If you are wanting to use a crate to teach pup to go potty on a pad not inside the crate, then follow the crate Training method from the article I have linked above, the article with the exercise pen method - you will find a section in that article for using a crate to teach an indoor potty also. If you are wanting to train pup to go potty outside and wanting to use a crate to train that, then check out the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I have a appx 14 week old female chi. I got her 2 weeks ago. She had been in small area with a sibling puppy for a while no training. Her owner had died and other family had her. She will have no part of understanding pad training etc. Just goes where ever. She will hold it in room on Pee pads until she is let out. Then she goes wherever. I'm not sure what else to do.
Hello! Here is detailed information on potty training, as well as crate training if you decide to use a crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.
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1. Accidents off the pee pad
2. Litchi aggressiveness
Hello Sara, How you been using the pee pad for a long time or is this training new to pups? Check out the Exercise Pen method from the article I have linked below. I would do a shorter version of that method if pups are already trained, and the full version if this is new to them. I would start by covering the entire floor of the exercise pen with the pads, rewarding whenever pup goes potty on it, then gradually remove one of the extra pads at a time slowly, rewarding when pup still goes on the pads instead of the floor, until you are left with just one pad. If the issue is that pup is new to pee pad training, often an intensive method like the exercise pen method needs to happen before you give more space in the home. Exercise Pen method - this method mentions litter box training but if can be used with grass pads or pee pads as well: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy If pup has been trained for years and is having an accident partially on the pad and partially off of it, I would either size up in pads, or place your pad in a very shallow cat litter type pan with a cut out opening for easy entry, so pup has a more defined space to get into before going potty. Something along these lines as far as the walls go: https://www.chewy.com/ps-korea-indoor-dog-potty-tray/dp/318085?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=PS%20KOREA&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjws4aKBhDPARIsAIWH0JU7roqgfgLHwEdupgPNX9LWQ6hBJl1wRFaIz3UmAE5dzyVK6Emb1ZcaAl4VEALw_wcB I would thoroughly clean the floor around the pee pad area, since the smell from previous accidents might be why pup is returning to going next to the pad instead of on it. Use a cleaner that contains enzymes for this. Only enzymes will remove that smell as well as a dog needs it to be done to not encourage pottying in that same area. About half of pet cleaners contain it. Read the label for the one enzyme or enzymatic somewhere on the bottle of pet cleaner. Finally, I would consider switching to a disposable grass pad if this continue to be an issue, using the exercise pen method from the article I linked above to introduce the grass pad. Some dogs struggle with differentiation the fabric surface of the pee pad from other surfaces made of fabric in the home. The grass is a more distinct surface, it's smell encourages going potty better, it's absorbency is better, and if the dog is used to going potty outside, it's a more natural transition for that dog. Also, be sure to choose one or two locations for the pads and always keep the pads consistently in those locations and don't move them around. Indoor potty training is partially about pup learning to go potty on a certain surface but it's also 50% about pup learning to go potty inside in a certain location, and many people are unaware of that second part. Imagine if your toilet kept changing locations in a huge home (Any home is large to your Chihuahua). Disposable real grass pad brands - if you go this route - also on Amazon: www.porchpotty.com www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com As far as the aggression, could you please include more details about the type of aggression, triggers, who it's toward, how recent, ect... I would be happy to offer more advice about that too, but would need more information to be of more help when it comes to something as delicate and serious as aggression. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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I just got her and started potty skills,how long does it usually take for a pup to catch on and walk to it herself and me not taking her and using the pew pads on her own?
Hello! I am going to give you some training information on how to work with your dog to use a potty pad. She should be using it on her own within about a week. Choose Your Spot Pick a space in your house where you want your dog to go. Obviously, you’ll want this spot to be a low-traffic area. Make sure this spot is easily accessible to your dog, and make sure the floor surface is linoleum or tile, as opposed to carpet. If your dog “misses,” it will be easier to clean up. If the only spot you can put the pee pad is a carpet, you might consider getting a small tarp to put underneath the puppy pee pad to guard against spillage. Choose a spot that is outside of your “smell zone.” An important tip to remember is to make sure not to let your dog decide the spot he likes. Not only might he pick an area you won’t like, but he’ll learn that he is in charge – not you – which can cause a host of problems down the line. Monitor Your Dog When you are potty training your dog, full-time monitoring is an absolute necessity. It’s impossible to correct bad behaviors if you don’t see them happen. Dogs have very short memories. It is important to catch your dog in the act. If your dog goes on the floor, and you try to correct him hours after the fact, he will be confused and upset, not knowing what he did wrong. This can hinder training and your relationship with your dog. Puppies, in particular, must be watched constantly. They have less control over their bowels and will go when they have to go. If you miss these moments, you lose precious training opportunities. Of course, it’s nearly impossible to be with your dog 24 hours a day, but try to spend more time at home during the weeks you are potty training – it will pay off in the long run. Learn Your Dog’s Schedule Dogs, for the most part, are predictable. They will go to the bathroom at predictable times. You should be able to learn when your dog has to go based on timing as much as on his signals. Take some time to study your dog’s bathroom habits. You’ll learn the amount of time after he eats or drinks that he has to go, and you’ll get in rhythm with his daily bathroom schedule. This will help you reduce accidents and speed up the potty training process. Studying your dog’s habits can also help you identify his bathroom “triggers” – like having to go after a certain amount of playtime. Once you learn your dog’s schedule, use it to your advantage in potty training. Bring him to the pee pad a few minutes before he normally goes, and encourage him. This will help him get used to going in the right spot, and help you establish repetition in your training. Choose a Command Word Dogs have keen senses – they respond to sight, smell, and sound. When you begin pee pad training, choose a command word and use it every time you take your dog to the pad. Just about any word will work. The tone of your voice is more important than the actual word. Try phrases like “go on” or “go potty” in a slightly elevated, encouraging tone. Make sure to repeat this same command, in the same tone, every time you take your dog to the pee pad. Avoid Punishment When your dog has an accident, it’s just that – an accident. When you punish your dog during potty training, he will become confused and scared. He doesn’t know what he’s done wrong, and can’t understand why the person he loves most is mad at him. Most importantly, it will not help his potty training. Positive Reinforcement Both human and dog behavior is largely based on incentives. Dogs’ incentives are very simple – they want to eat when they are hungry, play when they are excited, and sleep when they are tired. But the most important thing your dog wants in life is to please you. Use this to your advantage. Whenever your dog goes on his potty training pad, shower him with lots of praise. If he sees that he gets praise for doing his business on the pad, he will be incentivized to keep going on the pad – and he’ll be excited to do it! Potty training – whether it’s a pee pad or going outside – will take time, but if you do it right, can take less time. Many dogs are potty trained in less than two weeks. Just remember that you and your dog are partners. Do everything you can to help him learn the proper etiquette, and you will enjoy a long, quality relationship together. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for writing in.
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I just got her yesterday and she seems to kind of just go anywhere. I took her outside before bedtime but she went again In her cage in the middle of the night. What do I do?
Hello Salombria, If you want to teach pup to go potty outside, I highly recommend following the Crate Training method from the article I have linked below and removing all pee pads immediately. Since she is older, you can adjust the times in the method, to take pup potty every 3 hours when you are home, give her 1.5-2 hours of freedom out of the crate after pottying outside before returning to the crate until the next potty trip, and can leave pup in the crate for up to 7 hours when you must leave the house - ideally only 4 though. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside If you wish to pee pad train pup, I highly suggest following the Exercise Pen method from the article linked below. You can also use a real grass pad or a litter box in place of a pee pad if pup is confusing pee pads with carpeting or rugs: Exercise Pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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