Your little dog knows 'come'. And they are happy to perform the command because they want to please you. They've got the task down pat, along with all the other basics like 'down' and 'sit'. When you call, your little dog comes running like hearing their name is the best thing that could happen. You’re not worried about bringing your little dog to the beach for the first time. But when you get there, you quickly learn that your little tail-wagger loves the water and ignores your calls entirely. When you are ready to go home, you are so embarrassed to have to chase your very quick little dog all over. What happened to your ever-obedient dog?
Your training isn’t for naught, and although it seems like your little dog has forgotten everything, that isn't the case at all. It’s just that with distractions, even the best training is put to the test. Maybe your dog doesn’t understand your command in this new setting of a sandy beach, or it could be because your little companion is testing what they can get away with. Or, the simple explanation that the call of the waves is too strong! Worry not, there are solutions.
Little dogs that were bred to follow their nose or chase down game, like Dachshunds and Yorkshire terriers, will often have the innate trait to chase. They may have a harder time dealing with distractions than little dogs bred to be companions. It will take a lot of patience to train your little dog to come no matter what, and it will take perseverance and consistent training. Treats are always a good incentive as is playtime after a training session. Work gradually with your little dog while using external controls like barriers and long leashes to keep everyone safe.
Training your little dog to come with distractions is all about teaching them that the response to the command is just as natural and desired as the call to dinner time. And, as mentioned, you need something to motivate your little dog, like treats, toys, and of course, your affection. If your furry companion is already coming without distractions, you already know what your little pooch likes best. Bring these same tools to the distraction training.
Some additional tools are great in teaching your little dog to come even with distractions. A distinct attention-getter, like a whistle or horn, can cut through distractions. Long lines with some elasticity are useful both for having control of your small dog and for nudging them into focus. An elastic line is good because it prevents a sharp pull to your little dog’s delicate body. If your pup is really struggling, end on a positive note and begin the session the next day.
Hi! Pepe knows a couple of comands (sitm lay down and walk while layng down), but we use rugby words. Bt he only does it when we have treats in the hand. when ever we are out and we ask him to sit or lay down he does not do it if we dont offer him treats.
Also we are having troubles calling him when we are in the dog park! This is the thing we want to correct the most!
Hello Corina, Check out the Working method from the article I have linked below. Work on pup's obedience commands anytime pup wants something from you, have pup earn that thing by giving pup a command then waiting pup out until they obey, start with easier environments first, like in your home, remind pup of the command every five minutes but not continuously. You will need to be a bit persistent when you first start this. Often, the first time you do this pup won't obey for the first 10-15 minutes. If you can hold your ground, reminding pup what they are supposed to be doing and keeping pup from wandering off until they obey (a drag leash can help with this at first), often pup will eventually concede and do the command if they really do know that command well. The more consistent you are at first, the quicker pup tends to start obeying in the future because they expect follow through from you. I have waited a dog out for a single down command for as long as 30 minutes the first time, so patience is important. You can also keep treats hidden in your pocket instead of showing them to pup, so pup is surprised when they get a treat and doesn't require seeing a treat each time to obey, and begin giving the treats only for better performance than usual - like pup runs over for come right away and gets a treat but doesn't get one when he sniffs first and meanders over slowly, or pup gets a treat the third time they come but not every time. The treat rewards start to become more of a surprise, so pup is hopeful to get one but it's no longer a bribe anymore. This is called intermittent rewarding and can actually be really motivating for a dog - a bit like opening your pantry and sometimes finding a surprise but not every time - you would keep opening it in hopes of one even though its not always there, but if one way always there you might get desensitized to it and just take the prize for granted. For the recall, I would recruit some friends with dogs and practice the Premack Principle and long training leash sections of this recall article I have linked. Don't practice in the dog park though due to safety concerns. Set up other scenarios around dogs and practice that way before resuming going to the dog park. https://www.petful.com/behaviors/train-dog-to-come-when-called/ Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden
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If my dog is not on a leash outside, she runs extremely fast when she sees something she wants like a deer, squirrel, cat, or another dog. She is completely unresponsive to the command "come". She doesn't even slow down her running or briefly turn around to look at me. How do I train my dog to stop running away like this when there are triggers and to instead turn around and come to me? She already knows the command "come" very well when there are no distractions, like when we are inside or in a quiet area outside.
Hi there! I have two methods to help you with this. The first one is to practice her recall on a long leash, while in these distracting environments. You can pick up a 50 foot lead at any pet store and they are really inexpensive. Usually under $10. Bring treats and give her the "come" command. Give her a few seconds to come to you. If she doesn't, reel her in slowly, while luring her with the treat. Have her sit and give her the treat. Repeat this until she is less distracted. Another idea is to teach her the command leave it if she doesn't already know it, and apply it to these distractions before she has a change to become overly excited. Leave it is great for anything you want your dog to leave alone or not go after. Teaching “leave it” is not difficult. Begin the lessons inside your home or in an area with very few distractions. Here are the steps for teaching “leave it”: Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them. Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back. Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff. Say “leave it” and wait until he finishes sniffing your fist. As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand. Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.” When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach. Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times. Over time, by practicing “leave it,” your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. When rewarding him with a treat, make sure that it is something good, not plain old kibble. By doing so, you are teaching him that asking him to leave some food doesn’t mean he won’t get anything, but that in fact he might get something even more delicious. When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, you can teach him that “leave it” can apply to other things as well, not just food on the floor. Repeat the exercise with five different items that are fairly boring to your dog. After using five different “boring” items, start using slightly more exciting items. You know your dog, so you alone know what items he would consider more interesting, but don’t jump to high-value items right away. To increase his chances of success at learning the cue, you want to work up to high-value items gradually. If Kleenex or a piece of plastic, for instance, would attract your dog on a walk, don’t start with those. Choose the items based on your ultimate goal: Anytime you say “leave it,” you want to be confident that your dog will indeed leave whatever you are asking him to leave. . The reward he receives when he leaves an item can change as well. If your dog has a favorite toy, squeak it and play for a moment when he comes running to you after leaving the other item of interest. Most dogs love interacting with us, so a moment of praise or play with a toy can be just as effective as a treat. Keep it fun Even though you’re practicing “leave it” as a way to keep your dog safe, you want him to see it as a fun game you play. When your dog is proficient at the game in your home, start practicing in a variety of locations with more distractions.
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